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Please consider bearing replacement as typically some looseness there causes play and seal leakage...
You may have one of two designs.
Normal is a flange plate with 4 screws., release this plate and you can see the bearing (barely) and the axle pulls out, sometimes with a slide hammer, because of rust and debris buildup..
The 2nd type is a c-lock. to release this type, you open up the rear inspection plate, at the center. Catch the fluid. and replace the gasket, usually. Inside the CARRIER are 4 spyder gears. two of these gears are on a common idler shaft. You take out a bolt that retains this idler shaft, and remove it. Then you can PUSH the axle inwards, and reveal the c-clip. it is the idler shaft that keeps the axles outward and the c-clips in their place.
This design often requires axle replacement as it is one of the bearing surfaces that fails...inspece carefully for bearing damage.
Remove the brake drum, remove the plate that holds the axle to the brake backing plate. The nuts are under the hub flange (where the wheel studs are), there is a hole in this flange to insert a socket on an extension. (you will need to rotate the hub flange to reach all four nuts.) After you get these nuts off, attach an axle puller (slide hammer) to the hub and pop the axle half-shaft out. Take this to a machine shop and have them press the old bearing off and press the new bearing on. Slide the half-shaft back in, and reinstall the nuts.
Might as well replace both bearings (left and right sides) while you are at it. Mark which side the axles come out of, often they are not interchangeable.
Sometimes you can rent or borrow the axle puller from a major chain auto store such as Checker or Auto Zone. They should be able to recommend a machine shop also, if they don't have the correct press.
No if the axle does not match it's wrong possibly the oppisete side, I have seen many axle's boxed wrong in my time as a of a mechanic go to a different shop, also while replacing the axle replace the axle shaft bearing in the hub it's not that much work and it will keep you from tearing it apart again, if the shaft is bad then you can bet the axle shaft bearing will go out soon.
you need to pull off wheels,brakes, rotor /unit hub bearing, both axles and intermediate shaft, as well as the vac disconnec ton the front axle tube. if only the right side leaks then only then only pull the right axle and intermediate shaft and vac disco. it is a trick with a miller tool to replace the seal. the left side seal is inside the diff and the carrier has to come out to replace it. pete
I see that the solution given is for an axle shaft and not the drive shaft that was asked about. I am 99% sure that if you take out the bolts the other end will slide out of the t-case. Then the u-joint can be replaced as normally done.
Section 05-02A: Axle, Integral Carrier — 8.8-Inch Ring Gear
1994 Town Car, Crown Victoria/Grand Marquis. Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
NOTE: Whenever replacing the rear axle lubricant, use Rear Axle Lubricant XY-90-QL (ESP-M2C154-A) or equivalent. Removal CAUTION: The rear brake anti-lock sensor must be removed before the axle shafts are removed. The rear brake anti-lock sensor is bolted on the rear disc brake caliper anchor plate.
Raise vehicle to desired working height. Refer to Section 00-02 . Remove rear wheel (1007) and tire assembly. Remove rear disc brake calipers (2552) and rear disc brake rotors (2C026) .
Clean all dirt from area of axle housing cover with a wire brush and/or cloth.
Drain rear axle lubricant by removing the axle housing cover .
Push flanged end of the axle shafts toward the center of the vehicle and remove the rear axle shaft retaining u-washer from the button end of the axle shaft .
Remove axle shaft from the rear axle housing , being careful not to damage the inner wheel bearing oil seal (1177) and rear brake anti-lock sensor ring.
Installation NOTE: Check for presence of rear axle shaft o-ring (4A332) on the spline end of the shaft and install if not present. CAUTION: Care must be taken not to let axle shaft splines damage oil seal or bearing assembly.
Carefully slide axle shaft into rear axle housing without damaging rear wheel bearing (1225) or rear brake anti-lock sensor indicator (2C189) . Start splines into side gear and push firmly until the button end of axle shaft can be seen in the differential case .
Install the rear axle shaft retaining u-washer on the button end of the axle shaft splines, then pull the shaft outboard until the shaft splines engage and the rear axle shaft retaining u-washer seats in the counterbore of the differential side gear .
Position the differential pinion shaft through the differential case and differential pinion gears , aligning the hole in the differential pinion shaft with the lock bolt hole. Apply Rear Axle Lubricant to differential pinion shaft lock pin . Install differential pinion shaft lock pin and tighten to 20-41 Nm (15-30 lb-ft).
CAUTION: Differential pinion shaft lock pin must be tightened to specification using Stud and Bearing Mount E0AZ-19554-BA (WSK-M2G349-A1) or equivalent.
NOTE: Axle housing cover must be installed within 15 minutes of application of the silicone rubber or new silicone rubber must be applied. CAUTION: Make sure machined surfaces on both axle housing cover and rear axle housing are clean before installing the new silicone sealant. Inside of axle must be covered when cleaning the machined surface to prevent axle contamination. Tighten the cover bolts in a crosswise pattern to ensure uniform draw on axle housing cover .
Apply Silicone Rubber D6AZ-19562-AA or BA (ESB-M4G92-A or ESE-M4G195-A) or equivalent. Install axle housing cover and tighten retaining bolts to 28-38 Nm (38-52 lb-ft).
Add Motorcraft Rear Axle Lubricant XY-90-QL or KL (ESP-M2C154-A) or equivalent until it is 6-14mm (1/4-9/16 inch) below bottom of fill hole. Add 118.3 mL (4 oz) of Ford Additive Friction Modifier C8AZ-19B546-A (EST-M2C118-A) or equivalent to Traction-Lok axles. Install fill plug and tighten to 20-41 Nm (15-30 lb-ft).
Insert Rear Bearing Remover T85L-1225-AH in bore and position it behind bearing so tangs on tool engage bearing outer race. Remove rear wheel bearing and inner wheel bearing oil seal as a unit, using Impact Slide Hammer T50T-100-A.
Rear Disc Brake Caliper Anchor Plate
Lubricate the rear wheel bearing with Rear Axle Lubricant.
Install rear wheel bearing into the housing bore using Axle Tube Bearing Replacer T78P-1225-A.
CAUTION: Installation of rear wheel bearing or inner wheel bearing oil seal assembly without proper tool may result in an early bearing or seal failure. If inner wheel bearing oil seal becomes cocked in bore during installation, remove it and install a new one.
Install the inner wheel bearing oil seal using Axle Tube Seal Replacer T78P-1177-A. Use Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C or K (ESA-M1C75-B) or equivalent between the lips of the inner wheel bearing oil seal .
1. There should be a metal tag on the diff cover, held on by one of the cover bolts. This will help you ID the unit. If it's gone then someone will have to look at it that knows these rears. If the axle surface that is scored rides on the bearing surfaces, is scored then it needs to be replaced. 2. the easiest way to know if you got all parts of the old bearing out is to look at a new bearing. 3. I can't remember the manufacturer (maybe sosmetal?), but there used to be a bearing setup that changes the position of the bearing & seal on the axle so it rides on an undamaged part, so you can still use the axle. Check with any local old style parts house (not one of the new fast food type places) you may get some help there. Also... if the bearing failure was extensive, make sure you remove diff cover and clean out all debris from the gear set housing... any junk left behind can destroy pinion and side bearings!!!
Tools needed- typical socket and ratchet set, Axle slide hammer, Wiz Wheel type rotary cut off tool, chisel, ball pein hammer, hydraulic press, bech vice
First you must remove the rear wheels, then you must remove the brake capiler and mounting bracket, remove the brake rotor. unbolt 4 nuts on back side of brake dust shield that hold the seal and bearing securly in place. then you must attatch the slide hammer to the axle shaft by using the vehicles lug studs and lug nuts. use the slide hammer to knock the axle shaft out of the housing. it generally takes about 10-15 hard slams before it comes loose. once axle shaft is free to come out remove the slide hammer and pull the shaft from the axle tube. place the axle shaft into a vise and use the cut off wheel to cut off the bearing spacer. cut parralell to shaft until you hear a snap sound once it snaps use the hammer to slide the spacer off the end of the shaft. next you need to cut the bearing off the shaft using a the same technique being careful not the cut the shaft or the seal retainer plate. once the bearing is off then you can slide off the old axle seal. now slide on a new axle seal, axle bearing, and bearing spacer. take assembly to a hydraulic press and press the spacer and bearing onto the shaft until it seats squarely and make sure its all the way down onto the axle shaft. lubricate bearing with gear oil. and install shaft back into axle tube making sure that the recess in the seal retainer plate lines up with the abs sensor wire. tighten all nuts evenly top off gear oil