I have a 1990 f350 dually, the wheel cylinder is leaking and I need to know how to remove the rear hub, do I need to pull the axle to do this , or does the hub come off like a f150?
Don't listen to the last guy. The drum does not just slide off. You have to remove the axle by removing the eight 5/8" bolts and pulling it out. Inside the hub you will find a ratcheting lock nut. Visible will be 4 slots where a special socket fits. You can buy the socket from a parts store or you can just use a 1/4" punch and slowly hammer to slowly thread the nut off. Drivers side is left hand thread while the passenger side is right hand thread. Remove the nut and the outer bearing will fall out (so catch it before it hits the dirt). Then slide the drum off. While you inside there it is a good idea to replace the axle seal. It's about $30 and an easy change.
To remove the rear hub, crack each lug nut before jacking up the wheel. Place blocks in front of all three wheels that are not being worked on. This is to avoid the truck from rolling while removing the brake drum, because the emergence brake is attached the the rear brakes and can't be set if you are to work on them. Then jack up the wheel and place a jack stand under the truck chasse for safety. Now remove all eight lug nuts, then slide off both tires from the hub. Take a hammer and tap the brake drum on the side while pulling on the drum. Be patient pulling and tapping on one side then the other, rocking the drum off the brake shoes. When the drum is removed the cylinder is visible under the the brake shoes. Remove the brake line from the wheel cylinder, them remove the brake springs top and bottom. Remove the brake shoes. Note the positions of all brake parts and reassemble the brake exactly in the same way you disassemble it. When the brake is disassembled unbolt the leaky cylinder from the back side of the brake housing. Be sure to bench load the new cylinder with brake fluid before installing it on the housing. You most clean all parts with brake cleaner. The leaky cylinder will have fouled the entire assembly. Note if you have never changed a drum brake before, look up changing drum brakes in a manual. There are to many dos and don't to list in this instruction, plus good pictures help. Bleed both rear brakes before test drive.
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Lift the front of your Ford F-250 off of the ground using a jack and jack stands. Remove the wheels from the Ford with a lug nut wrench to prepare the truck for servicing. 2 Open the hood on the engine compartment and take the lid off of the master cylinder that bolts to the brake assister on the driver's side firewall.3 Remove the hex-head bolts on the back of the brake caliper with a socket. With the bolts removed, pull the caliper off of the Ford's brake rotor.4 Pull the old brake pads out of the caliper and discard them. Squeeze the brake piston back into the backside brake caliper with pliers, and then insert the new pads into the brake caliper.5 Pull the rotor cap cover off the middle of the rotor with a screwdriver and use a socket to remove the nut located behind the cover.6 Pull the rotor off of the wheel spindle.7 Remove the old wheel bearings from the brake rotor and insert them into the new rotor. If the old wheel bearings are worn, replace them with new bearings.8 Slide the new rotor onto the wheel spindle and secure it using a bolt and socket. After you tighten the bolt, press the cover back onto the rotor.9 Place the caliper on the rotor and secure it with a socket and hex-head bolts. 10 Duplicate the process on the passenger side of the F-250. 11 Close the master cylinder after putting the wheels back on the Ford and lowering it to the ground. Press on the brake pedal to seat the pads against the rotor Replace the F-250's Rear Brakes 1 lift the rear of the Ford F-250 off the ground with a jack and jack stands. Remove the wheels from the Ford with a lug nut wrench.2 Place a strip of paint on the back of the brake drum and rear brake drum cover so you can position the brake drum orrectly when you put it back on. If you plan to install new brake drums on your Ford F-250, skip this step. 3 Place the brake drum puller on the brake drum and pull the drum from the wheel hub. The method for attaching the brake drum puller depends on the brake drum puller that you use. 4 Remove the springs that attach the brake shoes to the wheel hub by pulling them off with pliers.5 Lift the old brake shoes off of the wheel hub and place the new brake shoes on the wheel hub. Secure the new shoes with the springs.6 Pound the brake drum onto the axle hub with a rubber mallet.7 Duplicate the process on the passenger side of the Ford.8 Put the wheels back on the F-250, lower it to the ground and, then press on the brake pedal to seat the shoes against the brake drum.
Under the cab on the drivers side about even with the door hinge the cable splits for the two different sides, right in this junction is an adjustment rod in the cdables connecter. If all things are the same and the brake is'nt tight enought to hold the truck don't adjustr any hting till you check the rear brakes as your describing the brake shoes worn out and even groung into the drums. The cables only need to be adjusted as the cables are removed or changed and once adjusted are good to go. The rear break shoes can be OK but thier adjustment to be as close to the break drums as possible with the shoes adjusters. You can get into the back of the drum though the adjustment hole but some don't have the hole and the drum will need to be removed. If you have this problem the brakes need to be looked at anyway and worn parts changed to new as failure altogether cvan cause a crash.
Well the first thing is to make sure the parking brake is off and that the front wheels are chocked (unless all wheels are off the ground). If the parking brake is on you will have a difficult time getting the drums off (if at all). Now, they could be rusted on but there should be two holes near about 1/4 inch in diameter about an inch from the edge, those are for you to screw bolts in to push the drum off. Find some suitable bolts at a hardware or autoparts store.
don't have topaz. maybe escort will help guide you.
Section 04-02: Suspension and Wheel Hubs, Rear
1996 Escort, Tracer Workshop Manual
REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION
Wheel Bearing and Hub Assembly
NOTE: Wheel bearings are not serviceable and should therefore be replaced as an assembly with the wheel hub (1104).
Raise and support the vehicle.
Remove the wheel and tire assembly.
Remove the hub grease cap (1131) from the wheel hub.
If equipped with disc brakes, remove the rear disc brake caliper (2552) and rear disc brake rotor (2C026). Refer to Section 06-04 for the removal procedure.
If equipped with drum brakes, remove the two brake drum screws and the brake drum (1126).
Unstake the rear axle wheel hub retainer (4B477) securing the wheel hub to the rear wheel spindle (4A013). Remove and discard the rear axle wheel hub retainer.
just keep in mind brakes are a saftey item.
if you could have both rear wheels and drums off then dis assemble linings then remove wheel cylinder and replace, assemble up the same as other side to copy. borrow some maintenance repair books from library or google procedures from manuals with drum brakes all have same principals.some front wheel drive vehicles have wheel bearings that need repacking with grease when removing drum and hub as one and more importantly have the do up nut by feel rather than torque up to setting hub nut and some drums come straight off from hub leaving bearings and hub on vehicle.
garage jack, saftey stands, wheel brace to remove wheel nuts, brake hose clamp, side cutters(pliers),flat head screw driver, hammer, socket set, spanner set,mostly 10mm ring and open ended spanner for wheel cylinder
Adjust your rear brake shoes. Then rebleed the system. Start at the master cylinder Bleed master first then the wheel furthest away from the master (right rear then left rear then right front then left front. Do that and your pedal should be good.