Question about 1984 Ford F 150

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What could be the problem with the carb if going through way to much gas? 2 barrel carb &manual choke? F150 doesn't want to run very good when cold. Truck just guzzels the gas after started. Got a 302 engine factory with the truck ..

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Possible things to be considered: Float level too high, needle has a bad seat and won't shut off, vacuum leak (either internal or base gasket), choke not properly adjusted.

My money would go on a carb. rebuild kit (but only if you feel comfortable attempting it) it's not all that difficult, but you MUST be (1) an absolute nut about cleaning it all very well, and (2) the various gaps, clearances, adjustments, must be made with excruciating precision.

This will be a lot cheaper than a rebuilt carb., and you'll get the satisfaction of doing it yourself.

While you're at it do a general tune up.....plugs, points condenser, wires , air filter, PCV, etc.

Posted on Dec 30, 2010


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How many rpm's is it running at when you first start it up and it is running on the choke? Does it gradually start to idle back and then start to die r does it do it all of a sudden and dies?

When running with the choke on, it is on the high idle circuit of the carb, as it warms up the idle should slow down and then idle in the 800 rpm range in Park, 650 in Drive. This will be the low idle circuit range. This transition inside the carb will cover an idle air bleed hole in the venturi of the carb and lean out the mixture. If you notice that the carb smells gassy and black rich unburnt gases are coming from the tailpipe, the problem is located within the carb and requires a carb tech to do a rebuild of the carb. You could try a good carb cleaner like Lucas by putting it into the gas tank, in case you just got a bad tank of gas, but that is just a bandaid for a more deeply rooted problem. Get the carb rebuilt?

Nov 27, 2013 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a 1977 dodge van only starts with starting fluid runs good after that-

First thing to do is check the choke and make sure it works. When the engine is cold enough to need starting fluid, remove the air breather completely from the carb. get yourself positioned so you can see directly into the carb and open the throttle linkage all the way. You should see 2 things happen. One, the choke plate should close at least part way and 2, you should see a shot of gas going into the barrels. If you're not sure about the gas, hold the choke plate open and giver the linkage another shot.
If the choke plate didn't close, hold it closed with your fingers and try to start the truck. It should start, back off the choke plate a little and after a couple minutes it should be good to go.
If there was no gas, either it drains off or the fuel pump is getting weak. If the truck doesn't give you any trouble under moderate to hard acceleration, it's not likely the fuel pump. Trouble such as coughing or sputtering. These go away when you ease up on the throttle.
If it's the carb draining off then it is time for a rebuild. But, check around before you send it out. Call around and get a price for a total rebuild and then check online. It may be just as cheap or cheaper to buy new from someone like Summit Racing.

Aug 24, 2013 | Dodge Viper Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My 1984 F-250 wont start

possible float sticking in carb or fuel pump not working. can you see gas spray in carb when manually operating throttle? Does it backfire when running? if so it may have jumped time,

Mar 08, 2013 | 1986 Ford F 250

1 Answer

84 f150 carburetor out of tune

When you get a rebuilt carb you have no idea what the
applications are for

I suggest you rebuild your own,
that way you have all the settings
& experience when your done

I think the float needs to be set correctly
& maybe the pump if there is anything for that

You have to have some knowledge about basic
adjustments of air idle screws

Start about one turn out from seated & then use a
vacuum gauge to get the highest reading & then go in
a 1/4 turn
Can use a tach also or both,then reset the timing

I would have all 3 on motor at once

When done you set the idle screw with air cleaner on

Nov 25, 2012 | 1984 Ford F 150

1 Answer

F150 choke thermostat has sparks what is the problem

I would disconnect the electric feed from this choke unit. Sparks and fuel vapor are a bad combination. The heating element inside the black choke cover is shorted.

You should be able to get a new element at an autoparts store. Make sure you position the choke spring properly on the lever inside the case. Some use a loop in the spring to fit over the lever and some have a spring which fits between the small slot in the lever.

As for the sticking, check the action without the choke spring attached. The unloader in the choke system has a small piston which is drawn by vacuum. The rebuild instructions mention how to adjust or clean this passage.

I hope my solution is helpful.

Jun 10, 2012 | 1984 Ford F 150

1 Answer

1986 cadillac rebuilt rochester quadrajet 4 barrel carburetor .Started car right up .problem is starts with choke engaged and instead of kicking down once warmed up it reaves higher.its not flooding out...

It sounds like whoever rebuilt the carb hooked the choke linkage up the wrong way. The mechanism can go together wrong and still fit. One of the pieces is a counterweight to trip the linkage off and it is likely in there wrong. It is usually painted green. The linkage will have to come apart and be redone. I've rebuilt a few and never had any luck finding a good diagram of how it is supposed to go together. There is one piece that has small steps on it, and when the choke is activated it is supposed to lock out the back barrels. The steps are what makes your engine rev higher when you try to kick it down. You have to play with it, put it together, close the choke and then trip the throttle. If it doesn't open try again. Sorry but hope this helps.

May 31, 2011 | Cadillac Brougham Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

One day it was starting great and running good. And now it just turns over, it does try to fire but nothing. I even tried boosting it, same results. I have replace the plugs, wires, and the ignition...

The basics we need to test for are;
1.spark at the plugs(it should jump a test plug with a 1/2 inch gap).
2.fuel at the carb,hold open the choke butterfly and twist throttle linkage,should be a good spray in both venturis if 2 or 4 barrel carb or just one in single barrel carb.
3.compression at all cylinders within 10% of each other and the factory spec,although a lower reading should still start.
Check to see if the carbon stem is still inside the center of the distributor cap,without this the spark will not get from coil to plugs.
Over the years I have seen these fail to start when the carb coke butterfly sticks closed,check this when you run test should be slightly sprung as you open it.I think this year was either a manual choke on a cable or had a heat coil on a rod to open it.
Hope this helps,or get back with findings and we can go further to solve it.

Mar 30, 2011 | 1983 Mercury Cougar

1 Answer

1985 300 runs to rich

Is it a Holly carburator? If it is and the choke operating correctly, then you have a warped metering plate in the carb allowing too much gas to go into the engine. Rebuild the carb abd check the plates for warpage before reinstalling them. There is also a power valve in the carburator that some times goes bad. Good Luck,

Apr 12, 2009 | 1985 Ford F150

1 Answer


I think the float in the float chanber might be stuck its a simple job just remive the carb and unscrew the bottom chamber on the carb off

Sep 09, 2008 | 1983 Subaru Gl Wagon

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