Ignition switch is loose...its a pain to fix it because the air bag has to come out. but disconnect the battery and remove it carefully then take the steering wheel off and the ignition switch relay is cone shaped and pressed on to the column. you need to cut it off and the new one will seat itself but that is the problem...vw jettas have the same problems all the time.
I had this problem with my old Audi 80 and basically it was a knackered fuel pump. If your car is a few years old avoid the main Audi dealers and take it to an independant Audi/Volkswagon specialist and you will save a small fortune.
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Car getting started then cuts off after 2 seconds.Its starter related issue.Either the starter is faulty or battery to starter connection is loose or got short in between.It has to be checked and replaced.Get the voltage checked from battery to starter.The battery should show 12 volts if fully charged.
TRY THIS IT MAY OR MAY NOT HELP.PUT KEY IN THE IGNITION SWITCH TURN IT TO ON POSITION WITH THE ENGINE OFF.LEAVE KEY ON POSITION THE IMMOBILIZER WARNING LAMP ILLUMINATES FLASHES.IF WARNING LAMP TURNS OFF IN 30 SECONDS TRY CRANKING CAR.SEE IF IT RUNS WITH OUT CUTTING OFF IF SO.THE AUDI DEALERSHIP HAS TO REPROGRAM THE NEW IGNITION KEY. WHILE THE KEY IN THE IGNITION SWITCH IN THE ON POSITION AND THE WARNING LAMP DONT STOP BLINKING THE DEALERSHIP HAS TO REPROGRAM KEY TO THE IGNITION SWITCH AND IMMOBILIZER.
I had a similar problem on my Audi A4 1.8T after three seperate trips to different garages I was told I needed a new ignition and it could only be re-coded at an Audi dealer - was told it would cost in the region of £500. As the car was not worth much more than this I did a little research myself and found that the ignition key may have been intermittenly losing its code (as sometimes the car would start ok) I had a new key cut at my local key specialist at a cost of £20 and its been fine ever since (that was over 2 years ago)
Hope this helps
HI,HANNAH,I SUSPECT YOU HAVE AN IMMOBILIZER PROBLEM.IF THERE IS A ORANGE LIGHT FLASHING ON THE CLUSTER WITH AKEY IN IT THEN IT IS THE IMMOBILIZER.THE PROBLEM WOULD MORE LIKELY BE THE DATA FROM THE KEY IS NOT GETTING TO THE IMMOBILIZER CONTROL UNIT,USUALLY A BAD CONNECTION AT THE READER COIL ON THE IGNITION.YOU MUST CLOSE THE TERMINALS SLIGHTLY AND INSULATE THE WIRING SEPERATELY.ANDY
Try replacing the engine temp sensor. Temp sensor is telling ECU the engine is hot when its is actually cold. After the 6th attempt there is enough fuel in the cylinders to create a ritch mixture, then it goes.