Question about 1996 Ford Escort 4 Door

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Failing rear left hand brake

Flushed out the brake system and have bled the brakes .cylinders fine but offside rear brake still has play when brakes applied .

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Check you caliper. if not greesed everytime you change the breaks they will stick. and this would create the play.

Posted on Aug 27, 2008

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Rear axle offside imbalance


I change one time a metering valve on rear of engine it was y like valve dont remenber what kind of car

Apr 10, 2014 | 1998 Toyota Corolla

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How to fix spongy brakes, or carry out a brake fluid bleed


This is a bleeding process which i have used for over 10 years on everything from motorbikes, cars, trucks and rally cars.

It is as follows : ------

Use 2 people....i know this may be hard to arrange but i have even used my mom.

Use one person to sit in the vehicle, engine off. Now firstly go to the furthest brake bleed nipple from the reservoir. If the reservoir is located on the left hand front of the vehicle, then go to the right hand rear nipple (with wheels off, preferably). And vice-versa.

Next, with the nipple CLOSED, get the assistant to pump the brakes slowly (do not go fast, it is not a race....lol). Down, as far as it will go, and all the way up....repeat 2-3 times.

Next, get them to hold the brake pedal down, now OPEN the bleed nipple, and ask them to repeat, all the way down, and then up again, 2- 3 times, then CLOSE the nipple. This flushes the system out. Again, sloooowly.

Next, with the NIPPLE closed, get assistant to pump the pedal again SLOWLY 2-3 times, this action forces the remaining air in the system to the nipple end of the brake lines.

Next, have your assistant hold the pedal down, gently OPEN the nipple slowly until the fluid comes out...as the fluid is still coming, CLOSE the bleed nipple. DO NOT let them get to the bottom of the stroke.
What happenes if they reach the floor, and you still have the nipple OPEN, is that a small amount of air leaks into the system, and after a couple of days driving with heat expansion, your brakes are spongy again.

Repeat this 2-3 times on that wheel.

Go to the opposite side of the vehilce now, the left hand rear wheel and perform the same action.

Then the right front wheel.

And finally the left front wheel, the closest to the brake master cylinder reservoir.

Remember to use fresh, new up to date brake fluid.

And use a clear tube or straight into a bucket, so that you can see successfully the air coming out of the system.

Failing this, if you have bled the sytem properly, and this still occurs, and you have no leaks, it is time for a brake master cylinder replacement. As there is a number of rubber seals that keep each brake sytem seperate, within the master cylinder as a safety precaution. If one sytem fails...ie left front brake hose leaks, then that side of the sytem (the left front and right rear, in a opposite system) will leak out, BUT the right front system(which includes the left rear as well)will still maintain pressure to be able to slow the vehicle down to a stop (obviously with increased pedal travel)

REMEMBER not to get any brake fluid on the paintwork, as it is a great paint remover (over time). If you do get it on the paintwork, just wash off with water immediately.

I hope this helps all of those who read this advice.

Please vote if you liked it !!!

And happy motoring.............

on Jun 30, 2010 | Mitsubishi Outlander Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do I bleed brakes on a dodge stratus 1998


  • PRESSURE BLEEDING
  • MANUAL BLEEDING
  • Print
    For vehicles equipped with an Anti-lock Brake System (ABS), please refer to the ABS bleeding procedure at the end of this section.
    The purpose of bleeding the brakes is to expel air trapped in the hydraulic system. The system must be bled whenever the pedal feels spongy, indicating that compressible air has entered the system. It must also be bled whenever the system has been opened or repaired. If you are not using a pressure bleeder, you will need a helper for this job.

    WARNING Never reuse brake fluid which has been bled from the brake system.


    MASTER CYLINDER

    See Figure 1
    If the master cylinder is off the vehicle, it can be bench bled.

    1. Secure the master cylinder in a bench vise.
    2. Connect 2 short pieces of brake line to the outlet fittings, bend them until the free end is below the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoirs.
    3. Fill the reservoir with fresh DOT 3 type brake fluid.
    4. Using a wooden dowel, or equivalent, pump the piston slowly several times until no more air bubbles appear in the reservoirs.



    0900c15280089cdc.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Fig. 1: Attach bleeding tubes to the master cylinder and position them as shown

    1. Disconnect the 2 short lines, refill the master cylinder and securely install the cylinder cap.
    2. If the master cylinder is on the vehicle, it can still be bled, using a flare nut wrench.
    3. Open the brake lines slightly with the flare nut wrench, while pressure is applied to the brake pedal by a helper inside the vehicle.
    4. Be sure to tighten the line before the brake pedal is released.
    5. Repeat the process with both lines until no air bubbles come out.
    6. Bleed the complete brake system, if necessary.

    If the master cylinder has been thoroughly bled and filled to the proper level upon installation into the vehicle, it is not necessary to bleed the entire hydraulic system.


    PRESSURE BLEEDING

    When bleeding the brakes, air may be trapped in the brake lines or valves far upstream, as much as 10 feet from the bleeder screw. Therefore, it is very important to have a fast flow of a large volume of brake fluid when bleeding the brakes, to make sure all of the air is expelled from the system.
    On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
    On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel

    1. You should use bleeder tank tool C-3496-B or equivalent, with the required adapter for the master cylinder reservoir to pressurize the hydraulic system for bleeding. Make sure to follow the manufacturer's directions for using a pressure bleeder.
    2. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
    3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn or more to get a steady stream of fluid.
    4. After about 4-8 oz. of fluid has been bled through the brake system and an air-free flow is maintained in the hose and jar, close the bleeder screw.
    5. Repeat the procedure at all the other remaining bleeder screws. Then, check the pedal for travel. If pedal travel is excessive or has not improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Be sure to monitor the fluid level in the pressure bleeder. It must stay at the proper level so air will not be allowed to re-enter the brake system through the master cylinder reservoir.
    6. Once the bleeding procedure is complete, remove the pressure bleeding equipment from the master cylinder.


    MANUAL BLEEDING

    See Figure 2
    Proper manual bleeding of the hydraulic brake system will require the use of an assistant.
    On Cirrus, Stratus, Sebring convertible and Breeze models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Left rear wheel Right front wheel Right rear wheel Left front wheel
    On Sebring coupe and Avenger models, the following wheel sequence should be used to ensure that all the air is removed from the system:


    Right rear wheel Left front wheel Left rear wheel Right front wheel


    0900c15280089cdd.jpg enlarge_icon.gifenlarge_tooltip.gif

    Fig. Fig. 2: With a clear plastic hose in a container of clean brake fluid, open the bleeder screw at least one full turn

    1. Attach a clear plastic hose to the bleeder screw located at the right rear wheel, then place the hose into a clean jar that has enough fresh brake fluid to submerge the end of the hose.
    2. Have an assistant pump the brake pedal 3-4 times, and hold it down before the bleeder screw is opened.
    3. Open the bleeder screw at least one full turn. When the bleeder screw opens, the brake pedal will drop.
    4. Close the bleeder screw. Release the brake pedal only AFTER the bleeder screw is closed.
    5. Repeat the procedure 4 or 5 times at each bleeder screw, then check the pedal for travel. If the pedal travel is not excessive, or has not been improved, enough fluid has not passed through the system to expel all of the trapped air. Make sure to watch the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir. It must stay at the proper level so air will not re-enter the brake system.
    6. Test drive the vehicle to be sure the brakes are operating correctly and that the pedal is solid.

    May 31, 2012 | 1998 Dodge Stratus

    1 Answer

    Rear caliper on 2005 Ford F150 not releasing, replaced both rear calipers, now pedal goes to the floor - no brakes at all. What can/should i do?


    Sounds like it still has some air in the system or a bad master cylinder. First try bleeding all air, there is definitely some air left in the lines and this is most probably causing the problem. Bled the lines at the bleeder screws on the calipers. ---------- There is air left in the brake line.Any time the brake system is opened to replace brake lines, caliper, pads etc etc.Mostly the air enters the system, and that air has to be completely bleed.Otherwise the same symptoms , what you are getting will be noticed.-------- Brakes can be bled manually, with a power bleeder, injector tool or vacuum bleeder.IIt does not make any difference which method you use as long as all the lines and components are flushed with enough fluid to remove any trapped air bubbles or air pockets.----
    The most common bleeding procedure is to bleed the brake furthest from the master cylinder first, then bleed the other brake that shares the same hydraulic circuit (which may be the other rear brake on a rear-wheel drive car or truck, or the opposite front brake on a front-wheel drive car or minivan). After these have been bled, you then bleed the other brake circuit starting with the furthest brake from the master cylinder.--------- When the complete air is bleed from the line, the brake should be firm when car is on.In your case brake brake pedal is loose and goes almost to the floor when car is ON.This is due to Air in the line.Get the complete air bleed from brake line.------- This will help.Thanks.Helpmech

    Sep 07, 2011 | 1998 Ford F150 Regular Cab

    1 Answer

    I've just changed the brake shoes. How do I bleed the brakes please?


    This is a bleeding process which i have used for over 10 years on everything from motorbikes, cars, trucks and rally cars.

    It is as follows : ------

    Use 2 people....i know this may be hard to arrange but i have even used my mom.

    Use one person to sit in the vehicle, engine off. Now firstly go to the furthest brake bleed nipple from the reservoir. If the reservoir is located on the left hand front of the vehicle, then go to the right hand rear nipple (with wheels off, preferably). And vice-versa.

    Next, with the nipple CLOSED, get the assistant to pump the brakes slowly (do not go fast, it is not a race....lol). Down, as far as it will go, and all the way up....repeat 2-3 times.

    Next, get them to hold the brake pedal down, now OPEN the bleed nipple, and ask them to repeat, all the way down, and then up again, 2- 3 times, then CLOSE the nipple. This flushes the system out. Again, sloooowly.

    Next, with the NIPPLE closed, get assistant to pump the pedal again SLOWLY 2-3 times, this action forces the remaining air in the system to the nipple end of the brake lines.

    Next, have your assistant hold the pedal down, gently OPEN the nipple slowly until the fluid comes out...as the fluid is still coming, CLOSE the bleed nipple. DO NOT let them get to the bottom of the stroke.
    What happenes if they reach the floor, and you still have the nipple OPEN, is that a small amount of air leaks into the system, and after a couple of days driving with heat expansion, your brakes are spongy again.

    Repeat this 2-3 times on that wheel.

    Go to the opposite side of the vehilce now, the left hand rear wheel and perform the same action.

    Then the right front wheel.

    And finally the left front wheel, the closest to the brake master cylinder reservoir.

    Remember to use fresh, new up to date brake fluid.

    And use a clear tube or straight into a bucket, so that you can see successfully the air coming out of the system.

    Failing this, if you have bled the sytem properly, and this still occurs, and you have no leaks, it is time for a brake master cylinder replacement. As there is a number of rubber seals that keep each brake sytem seperate, within the master cylinder as a safety precaution. If one sytem fails...ie left front brake hose leaks, then that side of the sytem (the left front and right rear, in a opposite system) will leak out, BUT the right front system(which includes the left rear as well)will still maintain pressure to be able to slow the vehicle down to a stop (obviously with increased pedal travel)

    REMEMBER not to get any brake fluid on the paintwork, as it is a great paint remover (over time). If you do get it on the paintwork, just wash off with water immediately.

    I hope this helps all of those who read this advice.

    Please vote if you liked it !!!

    And happy motoring.............

    May 27, 2011 | 1992 Daihatsu Charade

    1 Answer

    How to bleed brakes on 1997 Saturn


    The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

    WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.
    1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
      1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
      2. Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
      3. Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
      4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder.
      5. Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
      6. Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
    WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.
    1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
      1. Right rear
      2. Left front
      3. Left rear
      4. Right front
    2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
      1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
      2. Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
      3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
      4. When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
    3. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
    zjlimited_349.jpg

    Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder

    zjlimited_350.jpg

    Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid

    zjlimited_351.jpg

    Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system





    Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

    Dec 29, 2010 | 1997 Saturn SL

    1 Answer

    Rusted rear left brake line replaced, fluid drained from master cylinder. Left the line open while I picked up the new line. Bled all four brakes, but the peddle goes to the floor (slowly) with medium...


    Did you remember to bleed the master cylinder itself? When the master cylinder runs dry you should start bleeding your brake system at the master cylinder and then continue on to each of the four wheel cylinders.

    Dec 15, 2010 | 1997 Oldsmobile Aurora

    1 Answer

    Replaced rear brake shoes then bled brakes.couple days later pedal went to floor before i had brakes.rebled brakes thinking air in line. Worked for a couple hoursthen went down again. Checked for leaks...


    i am not sure about the process that you used to bleed the brakes, whether it was a one man bleeding kit, or anything else, but this is a bleeding process which i have used for over 10 years on everything from motorbikes, cars, trucks and rally cars.

    It is as follows : ------

    Use 2 people....i know this may be hard to arrange but i have even used my mom.

    Use one person to sit in the vehicle, engine off. Now firstly go to the furthest brake bleed nipple from the reservoir. If the reservoir is located on the left hand front of the vehicle, then go to the right hand rear nipple (with wheels off, preferably). And vice-versa.

    Next, with the nipple CLOSED, get the assistant to pump the brakes slowly (do not go fast, it is not a race....lol). Down, as far as it will go, and all the way up....repeat 2-3 times.

    Next, get them to hold the brake pedal down, now OPEN the bleed nipple, and ask them to repeat, all the way down, and then up again, 2- 3 times, then CLOSE the nipple. This flushes the system out. Again, sloooowly.

    Next, with the NIPPLE closed, get assistant to pump the pedal again SLOWLY 2-3 times, this action forces the remaining air in the system to the nipple end of the brake lines.

    Next, have your assistant hold the pedal down, gently OPEN the nipple slowly until the fluid comes out...as the fluid is still coming, CLOSE the bleed nipple. DO NOT let them get to the bottom of the stroke.
    What happenes if they reach the floor, and you still have the nipple OPEN, is that a small amount of air leaks into the system, and after a couple of days driving with heat expansion, your brakes are spongy again.

    Repeat this 2-3 times on that wheel.

    Go to the opposite side of the vehilce now, the left hand rear wheel and perform the same action.

    Then the right front wheel.

    And finally the left front wheel, the closest to the brake master cylinder reservoir.

    Remember to use fresh, new up to date brake fluid.

    And use a clear tube or straight into a bucket, so that you can see successfully the air coming out of the system.

    Failing this, if you have bled the sytem properly, and this still occurs, and you have no leaks, it is time for a brake master cylinder replacement. As there is a number of rubber seals that keep each brake sytem seperate, within the master cylinder as a safety precaution. If one sytem fails...ie left front brake hose leaks, then that side of the sytem (the left front and right rear, in a opposite system) will leak out, BUT the right front system(which includes the left rear as well)will still maintain pressure to be able to slow the vehicle down to a stop (obviously with increased pedal travel)

    REMEMBER not to get any brake fluid on the paintwork, as it is a great paint remover (over time). If you do get it on the paintwork, just wash off with water immediately.

    I hope this helps all of those who read this advice.

    Please vote if you liked it !!!

    And happy motoring.............

    Jun 30, 2010 | 1992 Pontiac Sunbird

    2 Answers

    I have re/re the rear brake cylinders,shoes,drums,front rotors,pads,and callipers on my 2000 gmc safari van.i have bled all the brakes. but the drivers front has no pressure or fluid.the other three brakes...


    make sure you are bleeding them by doing them as an abs system,do the right rear then the left front,then the left rear then the right front,the opposite wheels are how the system brakes.

    Jan 21, 2010 | 2000 GMC Safari

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