Removing clutch hydrualic line from trani., in order to replace
When removing the clutch hydraulic line from the trani, after pushing in that little clip , the line came out from the trani, but has a peice attatched to the end that doesnt look like anything on the end of the new replacement one. Did i break something off inside the trani that wasnt supposed to come out, or will that all go back in ok when i put the new one in?
An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert who has written 50 answers of more than 400 characters.
An expert whose answer got voted for 20 times.
Re: removing clutch hydrualic line from trani., in order...
Hi there that little clip holds the line lock in place make shure you wipe off the hose connection with a clean rag as you dnt want any dirt in line good work should go fine assemble as it was and bleed hydraulics bye for now
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
After replacing any part of the hydraulic system for the brakes, all air has to be removed. That you know. There are some vehicles that require a certain procedure to do so and, since you neglected to mention the make and model, I cannot direct you, give me the make and model and I will furnish you with the correct way to end your problem.
I have the same old truck, I recently replaced the clutch slave cylinder because it was leaking. The fluid ran low and I could just barely get it into gear with the engine running and when letting out the clutch, it would engage too soon. Then I realized the fluid was low, so I replaced the slave cylinder. It was not very hard at all, just a little tricky. I had to remove a crossbeam that was in the way, that's it, and it was better to attach the hydraulic line before mounting the slave cylinder. Actually I don't think it would be possible to attach the line after mounting it. Mine has the removable plunger pin, so I mounted the cylinder, then was just able to squeeze in the pin between the plunger and clutch lever. I made sure to put enough Teflon tape on the hydraulic fitting. No leaks now, works good. Refilled the master cylinder with normal brake fluid and bled the line a little. I had to pump the clutch petal nearly 20 times for it to build up full pressure so it felt right again after bleeding. I would say it was an easy repair and I'm a computer tech not a mechanic.
Starting with the slave , remove the line going to slave then remove the two bolts holding it to the trany and install new one in reverse order, next is the master, from inside the car dissconnect the linkage arm, this is done by removing the clip pin and sliding arm off pedal pin, next remove the resivor and hose. leave hose on resivor remove from master.next remove line from the master then remove the two bolts holding it to firewall, you may have to remove a few things to get the master out this all depends on if theres cruise and a vac valve in the way but this is easy to do.you will need to remove the resivior also when installing new master, bolt it in and connect the linkage make sure the linkage is adjusted as close to the old one as you can leave the adjusting nut a little loose for know after it all connected leave line off and fill with brake fluid have someone inside to push pedal they may have to pull up so you the hand to push and pull pedal, next put your finger over the hole the line goes in and have them push pedal to floor the fluid will push through your finger, do this a few times but watch the fluid level so it doesnt empty, a few time is good then with pedal up remove finger and install line tight,refill with fluid,then have them pump peal three times and hold down, open bleeder at slave, close bleeder and pump pedal again and hold and open bleeder do this a few times until you have a good pedal you will see the slave push out. test the clutch if it works good tighten adjusting nut, if it grabs to soon or doesnt go into gear then adjust, hope this helps.
bit of a job but you can do it remove driveshaft
remove cross bar (most models) disconnect the transfer case disconect the slave cylinder and all the lines going to the cooler support the motor take the trany bolts loose and pull the transmission out
remember that they are heavy ( replace the clutch
use the alinment tool reinstall the new clutch pressure plate and throwout bearing assembly
reinstall the trans /transfer case and drives shafts
crossbar and all the little stuff cooling lines etc
slave cylinder etc good luck
If it's going into gear hard it's most likely because the clutch is not disengaging enough. Do you have a lot of free play? Does the clutch start to grab with the pedal real close to the floor? If so, check the the nylon bushing under the dash where the pushrod for the clutch master cylinder attaches to the arm. Is the pedal real spongy, is there air in the hydraulic system? Another posibility is that you damaged the pilot bearing causing it to drag and it keeps trying to turn the trany. If you get the rolling a little then try to put it into gear, will it go in easier? If so the clutch is dragging. There is nothing with the brake lights that will cause it to shift hard. With an automatic trany the brake lights will unlock the torque converter. Also with a 4X4 and automatic trany and electric shift on the transfer case, the transfer will not shift unless the trany is in "N" and your foot is on the brake. There is nothing on a manual set up that anything to do with brake lights and shifting.
hi, depending on the model, you may have a mechanical clutch. if there's a clutch master and slave cylinder under the hood, its hydraulic. the main issue here is that your pressure plate. you will need to replace this. this will fix the issue.
Likely, you have a hydraulic clutch system. Check clutch master cylijnder for fluid and leakage, check hydraulic line and slave cylinder for leaks. If fluid low or empty, bleed as you would a brake wheel cylinder. If full,have someone work the clutch while you watch slave cylinder to make sure it is moving clutch fork. If system full and little or no movement, the master may be "bypassing" internally (replace) Also, check pedal mechanical linkage. Not often but sometimes these parts can break! Could also be athat clutch itself is worn, but this does not happen overnight and you would have noted slip long before this!
hydraulic clutch i presume. easiest way to determine where it is leaking from is to examine the ground after it was been parked overnite.... the colour of the fluid you are adding is what you are looking for. i believe there are only three places it could leak... the master cyclinder for the clutch... the hose or the hydrualic cyclinder at the clutch itself.