Question about 2001 Ford Escort ZX2
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Posted on Jan 02, 2017
cam shaft timing marks on back of cams ,two slots ,use a flat piece of metal to align .remove no1 spark plug and drop long thin screwdriver down it to bring piston just below tdc,then align cams so both cams are on the rock (valves closed) with knob on back cam aligning with pick up sensor left side between lobes.then bring piston up to tdc and fit belt.turn engine over twice with socket on bottom pulley to make sure no valves clear pistons.Remember to remove flat edge from back of cams i didnt last time and bent my home made tool
Posted on Jan 28, 2009
All of Ford's belt driven engines are non-interference with the exception of the 3.0L villager which was really a nissan.
Posted on May 12, 2009
On level ground, jack up the front of the car and support it with axle stands.
Get an open container that will take more than 5 ltrs.
Under the engine block you will find the sump.
On the sump you should find a 13mm nut, this is the drain plug.
Undo the drain plug and have the empty container directly below the sump plug.
Retain the sump plug and clean it with a rag.
When the oil has drained out of the sump, put back the plug making sure the washer is in good condition and the plug is tight.
Now unscrew the oil filter having the old oil container below the filter housing to catch any oil.
Wipe around the the filter housing to remove any and all old oil.
Now offer up the new oil filter but do not tighten.
If the new filter fits the oil filter housing, then remove it and lightly oil the rubber seal on the filter with clean oil.
Now refit the filter and tighten it up. Not too tight, you can do this by hand but get it as tight as you can.
Now lower the car to to the ground.
At the top of the engine you will find an oil filler cap. Undo this cap.
Now put in the new oil to just below the full mark on the dip stick. Let the oil drain through the engine to the sump for a couple of minutes before checking the oil level.
If the level is between 1/2 and full, replace the filler cap and start the engine.
Now look at the oil filter and the sump plug for any leaks. Also check around the oil filler cap for oil leaks and spillage.
With the engine turned off. Clean any oil spillages and tighten up the oil filter, sump and oil filler cap as required.
Now leave the oil to drain back to the sump for a few minutes.
Check the oil level and top up as required.
I find that it is best to top the oil up to just below the Max mark.
This should solve the problem.
Posted on Aug 28, 2009
if it is leaking from the front of the diff where the drive line goes into it you have to drop the rear of the drive shaft from the diff, if you look at the flange on the diff where the driveshaft bolted to you will see a nut, possibly about 25 to 30mm, you have to remove the nut and remove the flange off the spline of the input shaft of the diff, the nut is really tight and it is difficult to get enough pressure on the nut to "crack it" while the car is on the ground as there is not enough room to get a long bar on the socket to remove the nut. if you happen to get the nut loose and you remove the flange get a big screwdriver and pry the seal out of the diff, check the surface where the seal ran on the input shaft as it may have a groove worn into it, if it has the groove the new seal will still leak, they make a sleeve you can slide over the shaft to give the seal a good surface to run on, we call them a speedy sleeve here but not sure what they may call them there. replace everything in the reverse order that you removed it and don't forget to tension the big nut that holds the flange onto the input shaft
Posted on Jun 15, 2010
Testimonial: "many thanks, I didn't know about the flange nut and torque needed. Sleeve I understand, thanks. "
This sounds like the crank seal, the engine doesnt have to be removed, in order to get to seal is like replacing the ttiming belt, and once in the timing belt i would replace the crank and cam seals, also do the timing belt, and maybe the waterpump, you will need to remove the crank pulley and then the timing covers then align timing marks for timing belt before ou remove it, with timing belt off the crank pulley then slides off the crankshaft and the seal is behind it, the cam shaft gear unbolts and the seal is behind the gear, once the gears are off then you will be able to remove the seals from the engine,heres a few diagrams to help. good luck and i hope this is helpful,
Posted on Oct 31, 2010
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