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Hi No Name, The most likely place of the leakage on your car is the front crankshaft oil seal. The oil pan (sump) is fitted with silicon from a tube as the gasket. It rarely leaks unless someone has broken the seal, which is difficult and usually needs a special tool for removal. To replace it you'll need to disconnect the battery, remove the PK (Serpentine) belt and the power steering pump belt and the front engine mounting (Front of the engine but fitted onto the side of the body) Next remove the crank shaft pulley, (a difficult part of the job, made easier if the starter motor is removed and a dog tooth tool is bolted into the most suitable starter motor attachment bolt holes, the dog tooth is used to lock the flywheel while removing the crankshaft bolt holding the pulley (which is torqued to 76 nm when re-fitting. Use a puller to remove the pulley from the crankshaft and then remove the ten mm bolts holding the two parts of the timing belt cover. Set the engine toT.D.C (Top Dead Center) and look for the match marks for re-timing the engine when refitting the timing belt. Once alignment has been achieved release the bolt holding the tensioner bearing and push it all the way open, releasing all tension from the timing belt and remove the timing belt. The oil seal can now be removed from its housing. Fit a replacement oil seal smearing a light coating of grease on the seal lip. Press evenly into place, making sure of an even flush fit. Replace the timing belt with a new belt, Re-align the belt so that the match marks align precisely to those on the gears by fitting and adjusting on the straight side of the belt. Once correctly fitted, gently release the tensioner bearing until it comes into full contact with the belt and hand tighten the fixing bolt and then loosen half one turn. Remove the dog tooth tool. Screw in the crankshaft pulley bolt and apply enough force to take up slack and tighten the tensioner. Remove the crankshaft bolt and then reassemble opposite to disassembly. Remember to refit the dog tooth for re-tightening the crankshaft bolt.
You will have to remove the alternator and belt tensioner. then remove the remove the alt bracket the fitting is inserted in. Be careful not to break fitting off in block. This happened to me once because the fitting had deteriorated and became fragile. I spent alot of time fishing the pieces out of the engine. This was a pretty easy repair job, not something you would want to pay a mechanic to do.
you are fitting the wrong number of teeth on the pinion starter motor ,their is more than one type ,7/9/11 teeth well something like that and its obvious you are fitting the wrong motor ,use the chassis number to order one or someone has fitted another engine or flywheel and its different
contact plates in solenoid failing to provide high current to energize the
starter motor windings
?- dismantle solenoid and replace copper contact plates and plunger ring (readily
available as an inexpensive overhaul kit). Check out the manufacturer name of the starter motor (most probably DENSO) and have the replacement parts ready before continuing (Autozone?). Disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. Disconnect the wires and cables to the starter motor/ solenoid assembly. Remove the two motor mounting bolts and remove the motor from the car. Remove the bolts holding the end cover from the solenoid. Undo the mount bolts holding the 'L' shaped copper contact plates Take special note of the fitting order of washers etc. Remove the plunger. Reverse the order of the steps above but substituting the parts provided in the 'service kit'. By all means clean the interior but DO NOT lubricate, it only glues dirt to everything. Wire brush any electrical unions prior to reconnecting cables etc. Job should take about 20 minutes to remove, 20 minutes to renew and 20 minutes to reinstall
I'd guess that your intending to replace the timimg belt and the engine is turning whenever you try to loosen the pulley bolt.
Your best and easiest way of going about the job is to remove the starter motor.
Disconnect the battery.
Remove the cables from the starter motor (The thin one for the solenoid and the thick cable for the HT power.
Remove the starter motor retaining bolts.
Remove the starter motor.
From here we can take two directions
a) Get a friend to help you, who should lock the fly wheel with a large flat screw driver by locking the rotation by placing the screw driver in the ring gear, while you loosen that bolt up front.
b) Get a toothed clamp made up that will fit into the ring gear and lock the fly wheel when fitted using one of the starter motor retaining bolts. This requires a job handed over to a machine shop. (a bit expensive for a single job)
When fitting the pulley bolt remember it should be tightened to a torque of 98nm
You have to watch out that the screw driver doen't slip while loosening or tightening
Have a good weekend
Use a sounding rod: rest the end of a long metal bar or a very long screwdriver against the starter motor, try to rest it on the smaller cylinder parallel to it. Make sure that you have no hair or loose clothing dangling into the engine bay and place the other end of the bar against your ear. Get someone to try and start the car. You should hear a very definite click from the smaller cylinder, slightly less so from the starter motor itself, and even less form all other parts getting less as you go further away.
If you tap the end of the bar sharply with a hammer (whilst against the smaller cylinder) and then try to start you'll often find that the car starts. It's not foolproof though.
The small cylinder is an integral part of the starter and is called the starter solenoid. It's a heavy duty electrical switch which acts as a power relay. The small amount of current going through the ignition switch turns on the solenoid which then passes a very large current direct from the battery to the starter motor. Over time, the switch contacts get burnt and dirty and don't pass enough current to the starter motor.
The solenoid cannot be replaced as a separate item, so the fix is to replace the complete starter motor assembly. By the time that the solenoid needs changing the starter motor is usually not far off wearing out as well, typically the whole assembly lasts around 70,000 to 100,000 miles before failing, but it can be a lot less if the vehicle makes many starts every day.
Starter motor replacement is a quick and easy DIY job to any home mechanic with a basic socket set and a little bit of practical sense and a reconditioned exchange motor with a warranty is usually around £40 to £60. At those prices it's not worth fitting a used motor with barely any warranty unless you pay less than a tenner for it.
If you aren't able to do the job yourself, ask at a Ford dealer; the motor will be more expensive (from £70) but fitting is often free under their FastFit scheme. A professional will take up to half an hour typically to fit the motor (should be able to do it in under fifteen minutes!).
Good luck, please take a moment to rate my answer.
you must replace the lines themselves, you CANNOT use a compression fitting and cut away the bad part,either replace the whole line or find a good spot cut and double flare the line so you can use a union fitting sorry no shortcuts