Filler Door Hinge: Tip from Bill Peyton] The gas door hinge will
break if pushed forward. This is usually done by moving around the car
with the door open, or by curious children. The repair job can be done
completely from the exterior. The black plastic hinge is
held in place by four plastic rods. When pushed through the body of the
car, they expand four rubber sleeves located on the interior, thereby holding
the whole thing in place. Remove as follows: Open the door, and using a small
punch, push the four plastic rods through to the interior of the car. The
door will now come out. Note the position of the spring and the
hinge. Remove the spring from the old hinge, and either cut or pry our
the old hinge. This is a black plastic piece. The ends of the new hinge are
tapered to make it easier to insert into the gas door. Clip the spring
back into place. Now for the hard part. You will see on the new hinge
four plastic rods. These are held onto the hinge by four small
connections, all molded into a single piece. On the other side of the
hinge are four plastic “flowers” split into four pieces. You will need to
push the plastic rods through the “flowers”, once the “flowers” are pushed
through to the interior of the car. Since the rods are not free
floating, they tend to break off and fly away unless you hit them
squarely. If this happens, put a little taper in the ends, place them
back in the hold, and push them through. A punch and a hammer will be
essential. Alternatively, you can break the rods off while the piece is
off the car, insert them manually, and drive them in again with the punch.
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for passenger side:
1. unclip screw cover 'center flap' of inside door opener plastic cover, flap is 3/8"x 3/8" (center of plastic cover)
2. remove phillips screw now showing
3. push fabric panel (edge of door opener plastic cover-at hinged end of chrome handle) to allow uncliping of edge of plastic cover (top rt & lwr rt (for passenger side) of plastic cover)
4. open chrome inside door handle to allow plastic cover to be removed-slide plastic cover toward rear, free end of door to remove cover
5. remove switch panel-gently pry with wide non maring pry bar (cover wide blade screwdriver using cloth) do rear of sw panel 1st (don't pry front edge)
6. slide switch panel toward rear to allow removal
7. remove large phillips screw under sw panel
8. remove the 2 plastic covers near top, hinge edge -use plastic spoon handles to encourage caps to pop off. May also require small screwdriver approx 1/8" in to complete pop off
9. remove the 2 phillips screws w/ captive washers
10. remove 3 phillips/hex screws along the bottom inside of door panel
11. on outside/rear edge of panel push the 2 center pins of each in about 1/8"-this allows the clip to be pulled out w/ pin pushed in
12. remove plastic cover (REAR OF SIDE MIRROR)-pull window edge up and back.
13. lift rear of door panel (not hinge edge) up allow hinge edge to pivot around lower pin in door (hinge edge)
14. remove the 2 rt edge "L" brackets (gently pry center plastic pin out) (note the color and replace as removed)
15. slowly peel the clear plastc away from the non hinged end to expose the plastic panel with 3 phillips head screws
16. remove the 3 screws and panel for access to door handle.
17. using access area now available unlatch the rod attached to exterior door handle (unclip plastic to rotate clip up to allow rod to slide out-toward hinged edge)
18. using access area now available remove rod from ext door handle from inside door area
19. remove the 3 -10mm head bolts
20. remove the ext door handle (bottom edge out first)
reverse order to replace door handle
Question is whether the cable/unlatch device is operating, or if the spring that pushes the fuel door open is out-of-position or broken. Have someone else operate the button while you have a fingernail or non-scratching inplement ready to gently pry the door open. If the door does not open, there may be a problem with the cable/unlatch device. If you can get the door to open by hand when the button is operated, you may have a broken or displaced sping, which will be apparent once the door is open. I fixed this issue on our '92 Sidekick by installing a small spring from an old flashlight, set up so as to push gently on the door near the hinge point, while wrapped around the original support bracket. Best luck!
Release the fuel system pressure using the recommended procedure.
Remove the fuel pump unit through the access panel in the floor of the trunk. Drain the fuel tank into a portable fuel siphoning container through the opening in the fuel tank where the fuel pump is mounted.
Prior to disconnecting fuel lines, wrap a shop rag around the connections to absorb any fuel spillage due to residual pressure in the lines.
Disconnect negative battery cable.
Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove both rear tires.
Remove the exhaust pipe rubber insulators off the mounting studs of the rear of the vehicle and in front of the fuel tank.
Using grease pencil or paint marker, place alignment marks on the fuel filler hose, filler tube, vent hose and vent tube.
Remove the rear splash shield from the right rear wheel well.
Disconnect the fuel filler hose and the vent hose near the fuel filter.
Disconnect both ends of the sway bar from the stabilizer links. Use a grease pencil or paint marker to outline the position of the crossmember ends on the frame rail.
Remove the crossmember mounting bolts and pull the crossmember down until it stops.
Place a transmission jack under the fuel tank to support its weight.
The sway bar bracket bolts must be replaced after loosening or removal. Only use original equipment bolts as replacement.
Remove the sway bar mounting bracket, heat shield and fuel tank strap. To prevent the sway bar from falling down, install sway bar mounting bracket with the bolts finger-tight only.
Carefully and slowly lower the front of the fuel tank. Slide the tank away from the crossmember while pushing the filler vent and fill tube over the crossmember. Detach any remaining fuel or electrical connections. Lower the fuel tank.
Position the tank on the transmission jack or other suitable lift, with the shield and the tank strap in place. Raise the tank over the crossmember and place it in the proper position. Be sure that the electrical connector, pressure relief/rollover valve hose, fuel supply and return lines are accessible through the opening in the trunk. Check to be sure that nothing is pinched or kinked in any way.
Push the vent and the filler tube over the crossmember. Rotate the sway bar into position and install the sway bar brackets.
Raise the tank into place and position the sway bar mounting bracket and the tank straps in place. Tighten the bolts to 44 ft. lbs. (60 Nm).
Raise the crossmember into position and align with the locating marks made during removal. Install bolts and tighten to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
Reconnect the filler tube and vent tube making sure to align with the marks made during removal.
Connect the sway bar ends to the link arms and tighten sway bar mounting nuts to 74 ft. lbs. (100 Nm).
Install the exhaust onto the hangers. Install the rear splash shield in the right rear wheel well.
Install the rear wheels and lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts, in a star pattern sequence, to 95-100 ft. lbs. (129-135 Nm).
Lower the vehicle.
Install the fuel pump module.
Connect the fuel supply, return and vent tubes. After installation of the quick-connect fittings, check for proper connection by pulling back on the quick-connect fitting. The tube should lock in place. If the connection is not complete, make sure the black plastic ring is not causing the locking retainer to jam in the release position.
Install the fuel pump access cover and gasket. Tighten the fasteners and install the trunk liner.
Install the filler cap and reconnect the negative battery cable.
With the ignition in the ON position, access the DRB III ASD Fuel System Test to pressurize the fuel system. Check for leaks.
Check the rear wheel alignment and adjust, if necessary.
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The rear suspension on LH platform vehicles is a fully independent suspension. A stabilizer bar (also called a sway bar) is mounted in rubber isolator bushings and connects the rear struts through links. Note that the fuel tank must be removed to remove the stabilizer bar.
OFF. The fuel system pressure must be relieved before disconnecting any fuel lines. Failure to do so may result in fire and/or personal injury.
Disconnect the negative battery cable. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
Raise and safely support the vehicle.
Remove both rear wheels.
Position a transmission jack under the fuel tank just forward of the crossmember to help support the fuel tank when crossmember is removed.
Remove the four crossmember to frame rail attaching bolts. Remove the fuel tank.
Remove the stabilizer bar to link assembly attaching nuts and remove the bar and isolator bushings as an assembly from the vehicle. Inspect the isolator bushings for damage or excessive wear and replace, if necessary.
Inspect for broken or distorted retainers and bushings. If bushing replacement is required, replacement bushings can be installed by locating the split in the bushing, prying open and removing the defective bushing from around the stabilizer bar.
Install the stabilizer bar and isolator bushings back into the vehicle as an assembly making sure bar is centered in vehicle so it doesn't contact other suspension components.
Install stabilizer bar attaching link onto stabilizer bar. Install new link to bar attaching nuts and tighten to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
Replace the sway bar bracket bolt with new after loosening or removing them. Only use original equipment bolts as replacements.
Install the fuel tank back onto the vehicle.
Position the crossmember on frame rails and install four mounting bolts. Tighten attaching bolts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm).
Remove transmission jack from under the fuel tank.
Install the rear wheels and lug nuts. Tighten the lug nuts, in a star pattern sequence, to 95-100 ft. lbs. (129-135 Nm).
Lower the vehicle. Reconnect the negative battery cable.
Pressurize the fuel system and check for leaks.
Check and reset the rear wheel toe to specifications as required.
If you're on the smallish side and pretty limber, you might avoid removing the rear wheel. If not, you will likely need to remove the rear wheel and put the van on jack stands securely. I would remove the underside splash shield and gain access from underneath. It looks like you will need to unscrew the plastic insert that surrounds the filler neck inside the area that is exposed when you open the fuel door. Make sure you get the vent hooked up correctly when you are done.
Go to your nearest Toyota dealer. Purchase this part number: 77360-22020; approx 4 dollars.
Open the fuel door. Being careful, remove the leftover plastic that is hooked by the door hinge. Insert the new spring assembly under the slot, and press it in until it clicks into place. Very easy to do.
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