After long search of almost two years (yes two years) and much saving up I finally got my hands on a really nice TT this week, and l love it !
I have bought a June 2003, 225 black TT with 21,000 miles on the clock, one local female owner from new. The car apart from the odd scuff expected of a car of this age is exceptionally well cared for and i am very pleased however..............................
I have what i think may be an electrical problem and i wondered if you were able to help. basically i was out for a drive earlier today and the air conditioner (even when it is off) sounds like its on, its a kind of "rattle noise" and at first i didnt think too much of it, but then something really strange happened, the radio which i also had switched off somehow the noise of the engine started to come through the left front speaker ! Ive heard this kind of thing before when my dad had an old ford cortina in the seventies and the aerial picked up the engine noise. anyway, i stopped the car, turned off the ignition and when i turned the engine on again it seemed okay and it stopped but then happened again further down the road, i did the same stopped the car and when i carried on it went again.
i am no expert in cars let alone TT's but i think there is some sort of fault between the air con and the radio, im sure this isnt normal and would be very grateful if you could make any suggetsions.
My friend i don't like ford they are fix or repair daily or find on the rouad dead f.o.r.d, how ever it sounds like u have two diffrent problems the bushing on the air con is what is making the noise and the radio is a bad contact of the radio not two of the same but two problems. for the nosie install a new compressor, the speaker noise try finding that loose ground wire or install a new radio. and next time if i was you i would shop for the car like a rock, gmc period.
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Is worth a ton of cure. You remember that saying.
Remove the GM PASSkey "Security" System before it gets a chance to take out your vehicle. Seriously! Even (or especially) if it's still starting every time, just do a full bypass of the PASSkey System with the NEWROCKIES Inc PRO Module and save yourself a great deal of money, time, and aggravation.
And if your vehicle is having trouble starting - trouble that cannot be traced to the usual easy suspects, like the battery or starter motor, get it
You have asked a question which cannot be answered without a LOT more information. Like what do you mean, won't turn over? By hand? or by starter? And if starter, have you checked all electrical start systems? Have you TRIED turning it over by hand?? You should have done that FIRST before you ever tried to start it.
If you care about the condition of the engine after 12 years, you have a lot MORE work to do than worry about whether it will crank over. I had the same situation last year with a car that had sat for 10 years, and I worked on it about 2 weeks (off and on) before I ever hit the starter. (Hint: you do NOT want to suck in 12-year old gas and 12-year old oil. Another hint, pull all the plugs and squirt light oil - Marvel Mystery Oil, drain ALL the gas, oil and coolant and replace.) Oh, and by the way, when I finally hit the starter, it fired right up. Now get to work and check back in 2 weeks.
in the search engine type in --google chrome -- and when it comes up click on the-- make this my home page on the google page there is a section in the top right hand tool bar that has 3 small dots
click on them , settings and turn off or delete bing
only a mech, can hear it. we can not never ask web bunnies to hear things. its not possible. or youtube it. still bad. It is a 100% hands on deal... all machines.. noise is the most complex topic of all, yes, really. I use a fancy electronic ear (stethoscope to find the hardones) lots more, here. http://www.fixkick.com/NOISE.html
3 years ago, my car was running really rough. No accelleration, stalling etc. I narrowed it down to the distributor and changed it myself for about 100 bucks. Then last week, the car would start sometimes and sometimes not. When it would not start, I found that it had no spark. So it finally quit altogether. I put the old distributor back in (Yes, I kept it), and it ran. It ran rough like it did 3 years prior, but it ran. I have purchased another distributor for $100, and will put it in, and it will fix the problem. The distributor is an all in one package. Coils, rotor, pickups. It's held on by 2 bolts (12mm socket). Pretty easy to change out, just pay attention to the way the rotor is pointing when you take the old one out, and put the new one in the same. 3 year lifespan due to a sh*tty oil seal on them.
Could be that the system needs re-charging with freon, if its not been used for a year, it probably needs an overhaul, Get some one whor's qualified to check the aircon system over. Otherwise you'll just be pumping freon into the atmosphere creating you own hole in the ozone layer.
I know you can that you can change this by simply hooking up a scan tool for specific year. There are language options accessible for situations like this. Here is a sample of what can be changed using VAG 5052 or equivalent scanners.
1 = Lamborghini
2 = Audi A3 (8P)
3 = Audi A4 (8E)
4 = Audi A4 Cabriolet (8H)
5 = Audi A6 (4B)
6 = Audi TT (8J)
7 = Audi R8 (42)
0x?xxxx: Treble Speaker Monitoring inactive
0 = Front Treble Speaker Monitoring inactive active (NOT Audi A4 Cabriolet)
1 = Front Treble Speaker Monitoring inactive inactive (ONLY Audi A4 Cabriolet)
0xx?xxx: Sound Characteristic
0 = Sound Characteristic linear
1 = Audi A4 (8E)
2 = Audi A6 (4B)
3 = Audi A4 Cabriolet (8H)
4 = Audi TT (8J)
5 = Audi A3 (8P)
9 = Sound System
1 = Telephone not installed (Remote Feed Voltage for Microphone active)
2 = Base Plate (Temic - Remote Feed Voltage for Microphone inactive)
3 = Base Plate (Cullmann - Remote Feed Voltage for Microphone inactive)
4 = Base Plate (Nokia - Remote Feed Voltage for Microphone inactive)
5 = Telematic Europa (Remote Feed Voltage for Microphone inactive)
6 = Telematic US (Remote Feed Voltage for Microphone inactive)
7 = Base Plate diagnostic capable with Comfort Control
0xxxx?x: Equipment I
1 = Tuner not installed
2 = Digital-Radio installed
3 = Satellite-Radio installed
4 = Satellite and Digital-Radio installed
5 = Analog Input (AUX) installed
7 = Satellite-Radio & Analog Input (AUX) installed
0xxxxx?: Equipment II
1 = TV-Tuner/CD-Changer/Multi-Function Steering Wheel not installed
2 = TV-Tuner installed
3 = CD-Changer installed
4 = TV-Tuner and CD-Changer installed
5 = Multi-Function Steering Wheel installed
6 = TV-Tuner and Multi-Function Steering Wheel installed
7 = CD-Changer and Multi-Function Steering Wheel installed
8 = TV-Tuner and CD-Changer and Multi-Function Steering Wheel installed
Adaptation Channel 001: Tire Circumference
The tire circumference is beeing adapted in "mm".
Channel 002: Wheel Pulse The wheel pulse describes the amount of wheel pulses per revolution. If value 0 is entered the system calibrates automatically itself after several kilometers and inputs a value.
43 = Audi A3 (8P) / Audi TT (8J)
45 = Audi A4 (8E)
Channel 003: Language (Screen)
0 = German
1 = English (UK)
2 = French
3 = Italian
5 = Spanish
6 = Portuguese
7 = English (UK)
Channel 004: Back-Up Camera
0 = Back-Up Camera not installed
2 = Back-Up Camera installed
Channel 005: Speed Threshold (Video Input)
0 = max. 0 kph or 0 mph
1 = max 5 kph (Standard for Europe)
Channel 007: Options Channel 008: Volume Characteristic Channel 010: Region
0 = Europe/North America
1 = Australia/South America
2 = South Africa
Channel 011: Language (Speech Recognition)
0 = German
1 = English
2 = French
3 = Italian
5 = Spanish
Channel 018: Start Screen The start screen setting has to correspond with the control
module coding, e.g. a S3 start screen doesn't work with an A4 coding.
0 = Standard Start Screen
1 = Audi S3 Start Screen
2 = Audi S4 Start Screen
3 = Audi RS4 Start Screen
4 = Audi TT Start Screen
5 = Audi R8 Start Screen
Channel 065: Read Test Channel 066: Self Test Channel 067: CD/DVD Drive