When i shut off the engine and remove the ignition key the fan just keeps on going until the battery die out. i had a similar problem many years ago with crysler and i found out there is a relay switch which needs to be changed
how can i go about doing that
Got that problem in my Accord 92, my sister brought it to the dealer charged the battery and replaced the negative cable for the corrosion problem 300 $, drive it home till the morning after the battery dead once again called and brought to the dealer again now for 1,040 $ they will replace the battery, alternator and power steering pump no more money in my pocket so what I did is observed the reason why the battery die and die and die..found out that my cooling fan goes on without any reason, cold engine hot engine it will just run without any movement in the car tried to start the car dead battery i replaced the "Fan timer unit located under the driver side kick panel and voila for three weeks now no complain...hope this help!!!
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
How hot does the engine get in degrees F? Any applicable trouble codes? For radiator fan, have to check wiring diagram for your fan controls. Might be an issue with fan relay? Usually the coolant temp sensor has some control over the fan. Don't replace anything unless your testing points in that direction.
I need year--make--model.
Yes there is a fan fuse, see your owners manual, but will need to be replaced every time you want to drive the truck. The easiest way is to remove the + battery cable to save your battery from dying until you can replace the fan itself. Its not running hot or anything? This can be a safety feature to cool engine if it is.
I have '99 accord LX 4cyl sedan and the ignition switch is a problem for these cars. I replaced my ignition 2 or 3 years ago because it would randomly shut off and sometimes not start back up right away. It only got worse until I fixed it, it would die on the highway or freeway sometimes. Haven't had that problem since. i think it cost like $240 or so. Also if you have an automatic, be careful, they are notoriously bad for going out after 100k miles. mine did and its an expensive fix. good luck.
Could be the BTSI solenoid in the shifter, have that checked . You may have to buy complete shifter if it proves bad. This would keep you from removing key. Call you local dealer with VIN number and mileage have them check for the recall pertaining to the key rotation, yours may or may not be involved.
Sounds like there is a relay that is stuck, so the connects are still made and the fan keep going even though the car is off. Look for the fan/HVAC relay. I do not have this vehical but there is a juction box or relay box under the dash of in the engine compartment. Remove/replace the relay.
If your car has a water leak moisture can cause the problem.
Depends on how long he was trying to program the TPMS. With the engine not running and the ignition keys on, the day time running lights are on and the head lights are draining the battery. Next time your going to have the ignition keys on for a long period of time with out the engine running, set your parking brakes. Setting your parking brakes will keep your Day time running lights from coming on.
Some cars are simply wired in a manner to run the cooling fan with the key off and the doors locked in order to keep underhood temperature from climbing way too high for plastic engine parts to survive.
Usually there is not a problem with a dead battery because the fan switch will shut off the fan hours before the battery dies. If your battery is dead after such an episode it's more likely that you need a new battery than anything is basically wrong with the logic or operations of the fan switch. But it won't hurt to check the operational temperature if that is needed.
If you re-wire the switch to only operate when the key is on then you run the risk of over temperature on all your plastic parts under the hood. Some high dollar engineer has staked his/her reputation on having the wiring as it IS. It bugs the heck out of me too but maybe it's better to live with it?
Check the ignition and Engine relay switches located under the hood. Sometimes relays go weak with age and even a bump on the road will shut them off. If you can turn the truck on, take it to Autozone or similar store for a free DTC scan code.
I am having a similar problem on a 2003 Volkswagon Passat 1.8L 4 cylinder manual engine. My batter (after 10 years of service) died about a month ago. When the engine is cold and I start it up the engine (if I do not carefully add gas to rev the engine) will idle at around 200 to 400 RPM and then stall. The problem does not occur after the engine has been going for more than about 90 seconds. No check engine light is on. Ideas anyone?