2000 chevy venture wouldn't start, removed and had tested the starter and solenoid, they are fine, replaced them, attaching battery cables, sparks and sounds like starter engaging. any suggestions

No, the hot cable terminal on the solenoid isn't touching start terminal. No, the hot cable terminal on the solenoid isn't touching start terminal.

Hmmm...I would say the solenoid is shorted, but you say it was tested, right? Maybe the starter relay is shorted. And the original problem was no start? What exactly did the car do when you turned the key? Hmmm...I would say the solenoid is shorted, but you say it was tested, right? Maybe the starter relay is shorted. And the original problem was no start? What exactly did the car do when you turned the key?

To narrow the problem down, try pulling out the crank relay. It should be in thje engine compartment relay box. Then see if the starter still cranks when you attach the battery cable.





To narrow the problem down, try pulling out the crank relay. It should be in thje engine compartment relay box. Then see if the starter still cranks when you attach the battery cable.

OK, could be your ignition switch. Can you find that CRANK relay and pull it out? OK, could be your ignition switch. Can you find that CRANK relay and pull it out?

Was able to attach battery cable and starter did not engage. The starter has power, but when you turn the key switch the starter will not engage. Checked power on starter and show power when key is on. Was able to attach battery cable and starter did not engage. The starter has power, but when you turn the key switch the starter will not engage. Checked power on starter and show power when key is on.

When you say you have power at starter when key is on, where on starter are you getting the power and what position of the key?

Can you try something for me?

Run test #2 in this post: http://www.fixya.com/cars/r6222268-engin...



Thanks! When you say you have power at starter when key is on, where on starter are you getting the power and what position of the key?
Can you try something for me?
Run test #2 in this post: http://www.fixya.com/cars/r6222268-engine_doesnt_crank_turn_over

Thanks!

Pulled the CRANK relay. Still would not start. Replace lock cylinder (key) and ignition control module. Now it still will not start. Lights and dash board are working and we hear the fuel pump come on, but it will not start. Does nothing. There is a security light on the dashboard that is illuminated. Any more suggestions. Pulled the CRANK relay. Still would not start. Replace lock cylinder (key) and ignition control module. Now it still will not start. Lights and dash board are working and we hear the fuel pump come on, but it will not start. Does nothing. There is a security light on the dashboard that is illuminated. Any more suggestions.

Hi, when you change the lock and key, the anti-theft system stored code must be cleared by the dealer to relearn your new keys. I'm assuming your new lock and key are compatible with GM passlock. You had a resistor pellet in the old key blade right? And does your new key have the resistor also? If you bought the parts from GM, they should have made a key to match your VIN. That is the only way to avoid reprogramming. Please let me know if you have more questions. I'm here. Hi, when you change the lock and key, the anti-theft system stored code must be cleared by the dealer to relearn your new keys. I'm assuming your new lock and key are compatible with GM passlock. You had a resistor pellet in the old key blade right? And does your new key have the resistor also? If you bought the parts from GM, they should have made a key to match your VIN. That is the only way to avoid reprogramming. Please let me know if you have more questions. I'm here.

The old key blade did not have a resistor pellet nor does the new one. The old key blade did not have a resistor pellet nor does the new one.

Oops, sorry. You have Passlock III. This system uses a special key (PK3 stamped on the shoulder of the key) with a transponder under the rubber cover. The receiver module is located next to the lock cylinder. When the key is positioned next to the lock cylinder receiver module, it energizes the transponder which sends a coded signal to the receiver. The receiver module checks its memory to see if the signal is correct. If it is, the module sends a signal to the PCM to enable the engine. If the value is valid, the indicator light will remain steady for 2 seconds. You cannot test this system with an ohmmeter. You need a scan tool. If the signal is not correct, the PCM disables the injector and the starter and flashes the light once per second.



So now, does your new key and old key look like it has something inside the rubber?



Try this: hold the old key by the lock and try starting with the new key. If this works, you can probably put the old key inside the steering column to make it work permanently.



If your new key is like your only key and has a pellet inside, it might interfere with the old pellet. What I would do in that case is to open the keys and swap the pellets.



Again, sorry for the confusion. Oops, sorry. You have Passlock III. This system uses a special key (PK3 stamped on the shoulder of the key) with a transponder under the rubber cover. The receiver module is located next to the lock cylinder. When the key is positioned next to the lock cylinder receiver module, it energizes the transponder which sends a coded signal to the receiver. The receiver module checks its memory to see if the signal is correct. If it is, the module sends a signal to the PCM to enable the engine. If the value is valid, the indicator light will remain steady for 2 seconds. You cannot test this system with an ohmmeter. You need a scan tool. If the signal is not correct, the PCM disables the injector and the starter and flashes the light once per second.

So now, does your new key and old key look like it has something inside the rubber?

Try this: hold the old key by the lock and try starting with the new key. If this works, you can probably put the old key inside the steering column to make it work permanently.

If your new key is like your only key and has a pellet inside, it might interfere with the old pellet. What I would do in that case is to open the keys and swap the pellets.

Again, sorry for the confusion.