Question about 1998 Dodge Neon

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Car shudders at 40-55 MPH

A '98 with an automatic transmission the shudders and shakes at 40-55 MPH during acceleration and more so while turning right under power, it smooths out/stops at 60+. Rebuilt the front end short of engine and transmission replacement including replacing all of the mounts.

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  • Anonymous Mar 15, 2014

    I recently had a motor mount replaced and oil changed. Problem seems to go away if I accelerate through it but very jerky t times while trying to maintain speeds less than 40 mph

  • Albert Pierce
    Albert Pierce Apr 12, 2014

    My motor mounts are replacements, Trans is newly rebuilt, but out of warrantee. I think it or an old engine (212K) is the problem and one I will live with until it drops dead..

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  • Dodge Master
  • 76,846 Answers

How about the CV joint?? were they inspected for wear??

Posted on Aug 01, 2008

  • Albert Pierce
    Albert Pierce Apr 12, 2014

    Since original posting, replaced longer of 2 transaxles including CV joints. 50% improvement. Previous axle was cheap Chinese make. Replace with much more expensive Chrysler rebuilt.

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I am having trouble with my speedometer not working occasionally and now my seat belt light is coming on sometimes too. Is this the instrument panel cluster? Or something else? 1998 Dodge Neon. Backstory is as follows: -We take very good care of it and have one dedicated mechanic. -It has only had two owners; my parents and I. -We replaced the battery 2 months ago. -Mechanic checked to make sure the speedometer sensor was working. -We have had issues with the radio for years where it will randomly turn on and off, typically brought on by a stuffed trunk OR wet weather. -The speedometer works until we hit a bump and then the needle flies up and down or sometimes just stops working all together. -Mechanic has made mention of there being some Chrysler specific battery cable that is a smaller side cable and it is not in good condition. -Currently, my problem is that I can't find an old 1998 Dodge Neon in the salvage yard because yards are doing a lot of 2002 and newer vehicles and automatically crushing the others. The meat and potatoes of my question is what direction do I go in? And what of these symptoms ties to each other? And will adding new solder to the points on the panel fix it or is it something else? I'm trying to find least expensive to most expensive options and I'm rather handy but can't drop an engine or transmission or anything so keep this in mind. My handiness ends at resoldering the pins BUT I do have a mechanic I trust, but I fear that maybe I'm not combining symptoms properly. I have the money to repair an item I KNOW is wrong but not to chicken hunt around for problems.

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