Check and see if you get water/coolant circulates when you have the cap off (only check from cold start) the original water pump came with a plastic impeller and tends to strip on the shaft also check your thermostat before replacing water pump.
320i SE Touring Auto
The problem is when starting from cold it's down on power and after a few miles the engine fault light comes on, then when I stop the engine and restart it runs fine, and after about 10 miles the engine light go's out again, and it fine till it cools down.
Then on restarting it all happens again.
any idea please.
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this may be a goofy question BUT do you mean flushed the radiator not the heater core. Heater core is on the firewall.
Check the hoses going into the heater core to be sure they are both hot after the car has reached running temp. This will let you know if you have a blocked heater core not radiator.
first check temp gauge on dash is it normal if so termostat is fine than check the heater hoses going inside from engine compartment if they are hot rule out control valve if it in the engine compartment sit in the vehicle and listen for any noise when you move heater temp switch from cold to hot if you hear clicking noises and no change it may be blend door accutator with moves when you slide or turn heat control nob the heater may have to be removed on some models eexpensive repair may be needed
did you buy the heater cores new heater core and radiator is two different things sounds like you thermostat is bad touch your bottom hose and your top are they both hot if ones hot and ones cold water is not circulating bad thermostat is the heater core put in right
Very well could be the heter core. It sits just behind your dash on the passengers side. If you look in the back of the engine agains the firewall you should see two hoses going into the firewall together. The come from your engine block. Run the vehicle and get it up to normal running temp and turn the heat on. Touch both hoses with your hand and see if they are both hot. If one is hot and the other is cold then your core is blocked and you wont get heat. If they are both cold then you have a different issue such as temp sensor or water pump issue.
The first thing to do would be to check the coolant level,then make sure the fan clutch locks up when it gets hot,if coolant is full then start the car and run it until it starts running hot then feel both radiator hoses and see if both top and bottom hoses are hot this will tell you if tstat is opening, if only the top is hot then start with a thermostant, also make sure all fan belts are on and not very loose, i've found some of these older bmw's to have bad head gaskets that make them run hot,start with the test ,and check level first.
Why was radiator replaced?Did it have heat before ? If it was plugged, the heater core may also be plugged. Try flushing it with a water hose in both directions. I dont know why the botton radiator hose would be cold, the radiator should be a uniform temp and the air coming through the radiator should be HOT, when the engine is at operating temp. What condition was the old coolant? if it was rusty, the water pump may have lower flow than normal.
sounds more like a possible heater core issue the heater core is what heats your car by the fan blowing over it and through tour vents ! find the 2 hoses that come out of your firewall on the back side of the engine compartment . run vehicle for 10 to 15 min and see if both of the hoses are hot if one is hot and one is cold heater core is plugged. if both hot have a diff problem. start hear first !!