1974 porsche911 2.7L car starts then loses power wkile driving no spark from coil but magicallypower comes back after 15 minutes.Does it cold or hot. I've checked the coil, perma tune, plugs, rotor, points, cap and wires all seem to be fine. Sounds as if something is resetting after a while.
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here are a few symtoms of a BAD IGNITION COIL. the car will spit and sputter.
If your vehicle is getting a lot less mileage for the gallon, you can also register this as a sign of ignition coil failure. When less power is reaching the spark plugs, your vehicle will struggle and use more fuel to compensate for the lack of power transfer.
Trying to start your vehicle when the ignition coils fail will result in a rough ride. Your vehicle will cough and splutter regularly and when you drive at higher speeds, your vehicle will **** and spit. It will also vibrate when you are running idle at a stop sign or intersection.
With ignition coil failure, your vehicle will have irregular sparks emitting to the plugs to keep it running. This will result in stalling. When you bring your vehicle to a stop, it may just shut off totally, thus leaving you needing to restart it.
If your spark plugs are worn out, it forces the ignition coils to operate at a much higher output. Keeping your sparks plug in optimum condition can reduce your chances of having ignition coil problems. Some simple regular maintenance will save you a lot of grief. hope this helps you out !
I would try to replace the coil. Shouldn't be too much money. A coil controls the spark for your spark plugs. And that is basically what it is. A coil of copper wire. When the coil gets warm the wire inside separates and you lose spark. When it cools down the copper shrinks back down and makes connection.
I hope this helps!! If so please check YES! Thanks!
If your air filter is not fresh, the difference in the weather conditions actually causes the air filter to restrict the flow of air into the engine just enough that the super sensitive system you are driving notices it.
There are also other sensors that pick this up causing a performance change in the operating system. If your filter has recently been changed then of course other than being soaked with water in freezing temperatures, this shouldn't be a factor. Just a consideration:
this is also a sign of the car going into the "limp" operation and could also be caused by something getting wet, such as the ignition system. Double check your seals and panels that block moisture from your engine components. Wiring can be sprayed with sealers to help in preventing excessive moisture if your wiring is showing any age.
Start at the coil. With key in on, the coil should have a hot wire to the primary side of coil. You have the manual-does it show troubleshooting for the ignition system? You will most certainly need an automotive volt tester, a digital volt-ohm meter (DVOM) is best buy, also known as a multi-meter. Doesn't have to be an expensive one either-$30 for decent ones. Use it to test for power at the coil when key is on- that's why they call it the "ignition switch", hey? So if you have power to coil, read up on your ignition system to see how the coil is controlled to deliver spark. On American makes of those years, an ignition control module was used to turn the primary side of coil on and off. Before computers, the ICM was controlled by a pick-up coil inside the distributor to tell the control module where the crankshaft was. So spark would be delivered at the right time.
Hi, first check if you've got power to the coil. Have you checked all the fuses? If its not a fuse it may be a poor connection, possibly the ignition switch. Has your car got an immobiliser and if so is it inactive? If you still can't get power to the coil you can run a live direct from the positive battery terminal as a quick fix to enable you to drive it somewhere to get an auto electrician on it.