Question about 2000 Jaguar S-Type

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Water pump problem?

2000 Jaguar started running hot. We changed the thermostat but it still runs hot. There are no leaks around the water pump or under the car. We did notice the condenser fan would keep running, and the coolant resevoir would bubble up and run over with the cap off. Do you have any ideas?

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  • james1622 Jul 07, 2008

    Open bleeder after installing thermostat. It was a cap type that was above the water pump. Opened bleeder and ran the car for about 30 min, but it eventually ran hot again Did notice the water was minimal flow coming out the bleeder while the car was running. The water would shoot up occasionally and at times nothing would come out at all. Is this a sign that the water pump is not pumping even without leaks around the pump? Also does the water from the radiator flow through the thermostat to the engine?



  • james1622 Jul 08, 2008

    Pulled the water pump today. No signs of a leak, the plastic impeller was in good shape, and turned freely with the shaft. I put the pump back in, filled the radiator through the bleeder, and started the car (with bleeder cap off). The bleeder pipe stayed full of waterat normal idle. I increased the idle RPM and noticed water shooting out the bleeder line with increase in RPM (would this result be due to a working water pump?). Also the car wouldn't run hot as long as the bleeder cap was off (plugged radiator or condenser coil?)



  • james1622 Jul 09, 2008

    This car has no radiator cap, only the mention bleeder on top of what is called the thermostat tower. My son brought the car to a radiator shop this morning. The mech told my son the car was leaking around the thermostat tower. He said the radiator was circulating water now and we only needed a new tower for total charge (with labor) $400.00. Since I knew there were no leaks. We paid him for his labor ($30.00) and pushed the car out side the shop. I hooked everything back up, and it still overheats without any leaks. He was planning to take my son to the cleaners.

    I took another look at the radiator. The upper hose was extremely hot but the lower hose and the radiator was fairly cool.

    Could the radiator be plugged, or could we still have air trapped in side the radiator?

    Thanks for your answers


  • james1622 Jul 10, 2008

    I think my son is bringing the car to another shop with the goal to get the radiator checked first. I truely thank you for all of the good suggestions. You have been very helpful. It's good to know there are still good people around.

    May God truely bless you


  • Anonymous Mar 21, 2014

    fan runs after car shuts off



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You need to make sure you don’t have an air lock. Find the bleeder valve for the coolant system and release the air. If you can’t find the bleeder, find the highest hose for the coolant system and make sure coolant is flowing through it.

Posted on Jul 05, 2008

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  • staj1 Jul 08, 2008

    The water does flow through the thermostat into the engine. It is restricted until the thermostat reaches the set temp. What you are describing is the water pump is NOT working. With the engine running for about 5 minutes the thermostat should have opened and water would have been spraying out of your bleeder.

  • staj1 Jul 08, 2008

    Thats good news, a working water pump. Replace your radiator cap first. Now it could be building to much pressure.

  • staj1 Jul 10, 2008

    Hello James; Now you have me going. I was hoping a couple of short suggestion would fix your problem. Now I’m going to have to go into more detail. I don’t like it when someone tries to take someone to the cleaners. So this is what you will need to do. Drain the coolant from your car. You have heater hoses going to the heater core. Disconnect one of them and hook a garden hose up to it. You will need a pipe nipple and a hose clamp. Turn on the hose and let it run until water comes out of the open end. Keep letting it run until there isn’t any air and it is a solid stream. Turn the water off, plug the open end with your hand and hook the hose up trying not to let much of the water out or causing a air pocket. Start your car up and let it run and see how warm it gets. If the temperature comes in around 185° to 210° F you have a good cooling system. If it gets over 210 you have a blockage. Now if everything is fine, then add nondiluted antifreeze to your overflow tank. As you drive you cooling system will exchange the water and antifreeze. So get a turkey baster at the dollar store and every now and then remove the coolant from the over flow tank and refill with the undiluted antifreeze. Over a couple of months of driving you will have your 50/50 coolant needed.



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