Question about 1985 Isuzu Trooper

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Bleeding brakes how do i bleed my brakes on my trooper

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  • Anonymous May 14, 2009

    I have a 1985 Cadillac Seville and have done everything from replacing the lines to changing the power booster and master cylinder. I have bleed the whole system and still have no brakes when the car is turned on. when the car is off the pedal has brakes when car is on the pedal goes straight to the floor. I am stumped, I don't know what else to do. Can any one help

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First off, be sure your master cylinder is full of brake fluid. Now, starting at the driver wheel, behind or on top the caliper is a bleeder screw. Loosen this screw. The brake fluid may start running out on its own(gravity bleeding)if not then you will need someone to pump the brakes. Using a second person, close the bleeder screw and have them pump the brakes then hold the pedal down. While they have the pedal down, open the bleeder screw and then close it after brake fluid stops coming out. Repeat pumping and holding the brake pedal down then open the bleeder screw until you do not see any air bubbles coming out, should only take 2 or 3 times per wheel. Do the same for the rest of the wheels, starting at the drivers wheel then the passenger front wheel, then the driver rear wheel and ending up on the passenger rear wheel. Make sure your master cylinder does not run out of brake fluid or you will have to start over.
Please rate this and let me know if this help.

Posted on Feb 11, 2009

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This information is incorrect. when bleeding you should start at the rear driver side wheel, rear passenger, then passenger and finally driver wheel.

Posted on Mar 31, 2009

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HI, I dont think it matters where you start as you dont run out of fluid in the master cylinder, if air keeps coming out keep bleeding that nipple. The longest brake line will probably take more bleeds. I usually losen the nipple then slightly nip it up then fit a ring spanner then the clear tube over the nipple & it feeds into a jar. The clear tubing is easier to see the bubbles & the jar is to catch & see how dirty it is, if dirty keep going to its clean in the tube.(dont use dirty fluid) The brake pumper should pump up the pedal a number of times then hold it down while you undo the nipple they should feel the pedal go down. They should say yep & you tighten up the nipple, they should feel the pedal becoming firmer each time air is released. Look out for signs of fluid leaks around the base of master cylinder, wheel cylinders & caliper rubbers. Also some pipes go into a block junction which has a switch with a wire coming off it, loosen switch & give a tap to reset switch. This should turn brake warning light of at the dash. Good luck GARYB in Oz!!!

Posted on May 09, 2009

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Go to the nearest parts store and buy a vacula brake bleeding kit then depending on the vehicle! The instructions with the kit will give you instruction on which application you are dealing with? The vacula is the most efficient way to bleed brakes! It can be used by one person without the excess brake fluid being sprayed everywhere! They run about $50 at parts stores all over the united states and is by far the quickest and cleanest way to bleed your system of air! If you have help you can get by with a babyfood jar cleaned and filled with brake fluid and a vacuum hose from the bleeder screw to the jar open the screw depress the pedal and release until no air bubbles are seen exiting the hose! Repeat at each wheel in the sequence recommended by the manufactirers specifications! If you have any doubt how to perform the proper method the repair shop is your best solution to doing the job right! Sorry for the many incorrect and difficult responses! Good luck!

Posted on Jan 07, 2015

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SOURCE: Bleeding Brakes on a 2001 Silverado Z71

Tony,

When bleeding brakes after the system has been opened for service (you didn't say if you were doing any work on the master cylinder) you should start with the farthest wheel away from the master cylinder, which is the righ rear. Fill the master cylinder, then have an assitant "pump up" the brake pedal. Tell them to hold it down firmly, then open the bleeder on the wheel cylinder(s). Do not release the brake pedal until you have closed the bleeder valve again. You'll know when the air is out - there won't be any more bubbles. Since this vehicle is 2001, this would be a great opportunity to flush the system. Just make sure you have enough brake fluid (DOT 3 or 4, depending on your vehicle). Good luck!

Posted on Mar 15, 2009

cadman000
  • 607 Answers

SOURCE: spongy brakes after bleeding

If the brakes are spongy, THERE IS STILL AIR IN THE SYSTEM. Bleed brakes again, and a 3rd time if necessary. If you are MANUALLY bleeding, by having a helper pump up the brakes, make sure they hod the PEDAL DOWN till you close the bleeder valve, or you will **** back in more air. Start bleeding the brakes from FURTHEST WHEEL, which is usually R/R. Hope this helps

Posted on May 12, 2009

c17hydro
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SOURCE: how to bleed the brakes for 2001 ford taurus

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Bleeding The Brake System Bleeding When any part of the hydraulic system has been disconnected for repair or replacement, air enters the lines causing spongy pedal action (because air can be compressed and brake fluid cannot). To correct this condition, it is necessary to bleed the hydraulic system to ensure all air is purged.
Always begin bleeding the brake system from the furthest wheel cylinder or caliper from the master cylinder; the right rear.
NOTE: The right side of the vehicle is the passenger side. The sides of the vehicle are determined from the driver's perspective. This reference is taken from sitting in the driver's seat, facing forward.
Maintain a full reservoir during the bleeding operation. Never use brake fluid that has been drained from the hydraulic system, or from an open container, no matter how clean it is. Always use brake fluid from a new, sealed container. The front and rear reservoir will drain as the front or rear brakes are bled.

  1. Park the vehicle on a level surface. Place the vehicle in PARK (automatic) or REVERSE (manual) with the engine OFF, and apply the parking brake. Chock the rear wheels to prevent vehicle movement. NOTE: Wheel chocks may be purchased at your local auto parts store, or a block of wood cut into wedges may be used.
  2. Loosen the lugnuts from all four wheels, but do not remove the lugnuts until the vehicle is raised and supported properly.
  3. Use an approved jack and raise the vehicle high enough to place jack stands under all four corners of the vehicle. Place the jack stands under the frame or axles of the vehicle. Ensure that the front of the vehicle is raised higher than the rear.
  4. Remove the wheels from the vehicle.
  5. Clean all dirt from around the master cylinder fill cap. Remove the cap and fill the master cylinder with brake fluid until the level is within 1/4 in. (6mm) of the top edge of the reservoir.
  6. Clean the bleeder screws at all four wheels. The bleeder screws are located on the back of the brake backing plate (drum brakes) and at the top of the brake calipers (disc brakes).
  7. Attach a length of rubber hose over the bleeder screw and place the other end of the hose in a plastic jar.
  8. Have an assistant place and hold pressure on the brake pedal.
  9. Open the bleeder screw 1/2 - 3/4 turn. As the bleeder is opened, the brake pedal will travel to the floor. Have the assistant inform you when the pedal has bottomed out. NOTE: Do not remove pressure from the brake pedal once it is bottomed out. No movement to the pedal should occur until the bleeder is closed and the assistant is made aware of the situation. Failure to do this will draw more air into the system.
  10. Close the bleeder screw and tell your assistant remove their foot from the brake pedal. Continue this process to purge all air from the system.
  11. When bubbles cease to appear at the end of the bleeder hose, tighten the bleeder screw and remove the hose.
  12. After bleeding each wheel, check the master cylinder fluid level and add fluid accordingly.
  13. Repeat the bleeding operation at the remaining three wheels, ending with the one closet to the master cylinder. The pattern is, RR, LR, RF, LF.
  14. Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the proper level and install the reservoir cap.

Posted on Jul 22, 2009

techbuster
  • 5081 Answers

SOURCE: bleeding brake system how?

BLEED BRAKE SYSTEM

Make sure one end of the Jeep is raised (starting with the rear end) and secure on jack stands and the wheels on each side have been removed. If you have been working on the brakes, this should already be done.

Connect a clear rubber tube to the bleeder valve on the right rear brake caliper. Start with this end and side because it is farthest from the master cylinder.Place the tube's other end into a container partially filled with brake fluid.

Open the bleeder valve on the caliper and have an assistant press on the brake pedal inside the Jeep. Look for a mixture of air and fluid to come out of the valve. Once all the air is purged and the fluid runs cleanly from the valve, close the screw and remove the tube.

Repeat the process for all four brakes. Move to the left rear next, followed by the right front and the left front. If you need to, reconnect the Jeep's rear wheels and lower the rear end before raising the front end and removing those wheels.

Check the level of fluid in the master cylinder periodically as you bleed the brakes. If the level drops below the needed fill line, add more fluid. Use fresh fluid, not any that you have bled from the brakes.

Start the Jeep's engine after bleeding all the brakes and press on the brake pedal. You might need to do this repeatedly to seat new brake pads you just installed. Turn off the engine and hold down on the pedal. Bleed the brakes again if the pedal sink within 15 to 20 seconds.

Posted on Dec 21, 2009

  • 1619 Answers

SOURCE: how to bleed antilock brakes on 1994 Chevy Suburban?

One man suction bleeder from the calipers with top off the reservoir and keep it full when you **** fluid out the caliper.

Posted on Apr 29, 2010

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