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YOU NEED FIND SAME S 10 2.5L ENGINE WITH AC SET UP WITH AC BRACKET.FIND ONE IN SALVAGE YARD FOR THAT YEAR GOOD LUCK IF YOU FIND ONE MOST CARS AND TRUCKS THAT YEAR BEEN CRUSHED AND RECYCLE.YOU CAN GO TO AUTO PARTS STORES BUY CONVERSION AC BRACKET KITS LIKE GUYS BUY AC COMPRESSOR PUT THEM IN HOT RODS AND SOME OLDER CARS THAT HAD NO AIR CONDITIONERS. GO TO AUTO PARTS STORES THEY WILL HELP YOU FIND THE BRACKET KIT.
If I remember correctly, there were two noses for those starters, either should work as the difference was that on one both bolts were long, the other used a long and short one. The one thing that may be missing there is that both starters used a front support bracket that either fastened to the case or to one long bolt that holds the starter together that had a short threaded extension on it. the other end of the bracket attaches to the engine block. Under load, that bracket keeps the starter from trying to tilt up and break. Another thing that can break the nose is an ignition cross-fire. that can shock the housing and also give you that problem. Make sure the ignition wires are good as well as the cap and rotor.
Generally starters have 2 or 3 bolts and a thick wire coming from the battery and other miscellaneous connections.
You did not specify a vehicle that was on my list, i.e. 1988 Chevy Tahoe.
However, it may be similar to a Suburban R10: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
The following is a general procedure for all trucks covered in this manual, and may vary slightly depending on model and series.
Disconnect the negative battery cable at the battery.
Raise and support the vehicle.
Disconnect and tag all wires at the solenoid terminal.
NOTE: Reinstall all nuts as soon as they are removed, since the thread sizes are different.
Remove the front bracket from the starter and the mounting bolts. On engines with a solenoid heat shield, remove the front bracket upper bolt and detach the bracket from the starter.
Fig. 1: Starter mounting location — 4.8L engines
Fig. 2: Starter mounting location — 4.3L and 5.0L engines
Fig. 3: Starter mounts — 5.7L and 7.4L engines
Remove the front bracket bolt or nut. Lower the starter, front end first, then remove the unit from the truck.
Position the starter and tighten all bolts as follows:
Thru-bolts: 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm)
Bracket bolt: 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
Nut (gas): 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm)
Nut (diesel): 90 inch lbs. (10 Nm)
Thru-bolts: 35 ft. lbs. (45 Nm)
Bracket bolt (diesel): 24 ft. lbs. (33 Nm)
Nut (diesel): 75 inch lbs. (8.5 Nm)
Reconnect all wires.
Fig. 4: Disconnect the negative battery cable
Fig. 5: Remove the starter retaining bolts
Fig. 6: Remove the starter from the vehicle
Here is a picture showing the location of the nine bolts securing the bracket (this engine is out of the car). It is possible to remove the bracket with the alternator in situ, if you have air tools and just about every extension and off-set available. Otherwise, removal of the alternator is usually necessary.