Question about 1992 Buick Century

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Fast idle The car generally starts Ok but later it wants to idle fast. We have to hold down the brake to keep it to 35 or less. Other times it won't stay running. It smells like excessive fuel in the exhaust. We had work done on the engine. Intake gaskets were replaced, throttle positioning switch was replaced twice in a few months, spark plugs and wires were replaced. All of this was done in Nov or Dec 2007 and everything worked just fine for about 2 weeks then problems re-occured. We have noticed that the speed control seems to come on by its self once in awhile but not sure. Recently we began to have the transmission slamming into gear once in a while. The speedometer now works intermittantly and when it doesn't work the A/C doesn't generate cold air either. We just had a reading because of the check engine light (which has been on since it was worked on) and got codes 14,22,27,28,31. The engine doesn't even have 100,000 miles on it but otherwise seems to be in good shape. Is this a multitude of problems or could a computer be generating these problems? Bill Hawkes wehawkes60@gmail.com

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  • lken Jul 13, 2008

    fast idle,sometimes stops amd restarts,speedometer quits working seems to be no pattern. changed plugs and wires,fuel regulator,throttle postion sensor,idle air control valve,throttle postion sensor,mass air flow sensor,knock sensor .car has 200,000 miles .

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Replaced computer

Posted on Sep 15, 2008


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At what mileage should you do timing chain 95 t-bird


there is no set mileage for this. it generally is replaced when it either brakes or is stretched so much the car won`t start. you can check it by checking chain play by bring cylinder 1 to top dead center(tdc) by aligning timing marks and moving the motor back and forth with the rad fan holding tension on the fan belts to roll motor. watching the amount of movement before the slack is taken up on the timing marks if its 6 degrees or less its good.

Jul 29, 2014 | Cars & Trucks

Tip

Save Money on Gas/Petrol


  1. Avoid idling. While idling, your car gets exactly 0 miles per gallon while starting the car uses the same amount as idling for 6 seconds. Park your car and go into the restaurant rather than idling in the drive-through. Idling with the air conditioning on also uses extra fuel. Also, avoid going so fast that you have to brake for someone. Whenever you brake, you waste the gas it took to get going that fast.
  2. Drive at a consistent speed. Avoid quick acceleration and hard braking. Cruise control will keep you at a constant speed, even when going up and down hills.
  3. Avoid stops. If approaching a red light, see if you can slow down enough to avoid having to actually stop (because you reach the light after it is green). Speeding up from 5 or 10 miles per hour will be easier on the gas than starting from full stop.
  4. Anticipate the stop signs and lights. Look far ahead; get to know your usual routes. You can let up on the gas earlier. Coasting to a stop will save the gasoline you would otherwise use maintaining your speed longer. If it just gets you to the end of a line of cars at a red light or a stop sign a few seconds later, it won't add any time to your trip. Ditto for coasting to lose speed before a highway off-ramp: if it means you catch up with that truck halfway around the curve instead of at the beginning, you haven't lost any time. In many cities, if you know the streets well, you can time the lights and maintain the appropriate speed to hit all green lights. Usually this is about 35 to 40 MPH.
  5. Slow down. Air resistance goes up as the square of velocity. The power consumed to overcome that air resistance goes up as the cube of the velocity. Rolling resistance is the dominant force below about 40 mph. Above that, every mph costs you mileage. Go as slow as traffic and your schedule will allow. Drive under 60-65 since air grows exponentially denser, in the aerodynamic sense, the faster we drive. To be precise, the most efficient speed is your car's minimum speed in it's highest gear, since this provides the best "speed per RPM" ratio. This is usually about 45 to 55 miles per hour.
  6. Use A/C only on the highway. At lower speeds, open the windows. This increased the drag and reduces fuel efficiency, but not as much as the AC at low speeds (35-40 mph). The air con - when used a lot - is known to use up about 8% of the fuel you put into your car.

on Jul 31, 2010 | Acura Integra Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My 83 Ford Bronco keeps cutting off at every stop. it puffs like it's fighting to stay on before it go's out please help.


Sounds like your Carb needs to be tuned. If that doesn't do it rebuild or Buy a new one.

When I get in my Chevy First start of the day I press the gas pedal to the Floor 2 times and then hit the key to start it and it starts right up at a fast idle then you have to manually kick it down to a lower idle by putting it to the floor and letting off real fast kicking it to a normal running idle.
It could benefit you to let it warm up a bit longer also. I have to give my chevy 5-10 minutes before I drive off in it..


Might try and run some fuel stabilizer through it. Stuff that will remove water and other things that will make your motor run worse (maybe run a better grade of fuel in it).


When was the last time you replaced the Spark plugs? That could also benefit you. Just the general tune up things could make a world of difference.


Also if it does this when the motor is fully warmed up you might turn up your idle as that could be a problem. Let me know what works for you.

Mar 24, 2013 | 1983 Ford Bronco

1 Answer

Obd2 system rediness status won't clear so I can run the smog test due to replacing the battery.


takes a long time to run the rediness test since there are 6 different tests to complete...

PROCEDURE 1
EVAPORATIVE EMISSION SYSTEM LEAK MONITOR
Inspection Conditions
Engine coolant temperature: 30°C (75°F) or less (The engine is stopped before the test drive is started).
Atmospheric temperature: 5 - 30°C (41 - 113°F).
Condition of A/T: Selector lever D range.
Fuel remained in fuel tank: 30 - 50% is recommended.
Time required: 16 minutes or less after started the engine.
Drive cycle pattern: One trip monitor (from start to ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position. Well be completed while traveling with the following drive cycle pattern.
Test Procedure
Engine: start.
Accelerate until the vehicle speed is 89 km/h (55 mph) or more.
While keeping the accelerator pedal opening degree constant, keep the vehicle speed at 89 km/h (55 mph) or more and travel for 16 minutes.
Return the vehicle to the shop, then turn the ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position.

PROCEDURE 2
FUEL TRIM MONITOR
Drive Cycle Pattern
Inspection Conditions
Engine coolant temperature: 100°C (212°F) or less.
Atmospheric temperature: -10 - 60°C (14 - 140°F).
Condition of A/T: Selector lever D range.
Time required: 30 minutes or more.
Drive cycle pattern: One trip monitor (from start to ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position). Will be completed while traveling with the following drive cycle pattern.
Test Procedure
Engine: start.
Accelerate until the vehicle speed is 89 km/h (55 mph) or more.
While keeping the accelerator pedal opening degree constant, keep the vehicle speed at 89 km/h (55 mph) or more and travel for 30 minutes.
Return the vehicle to the shop, then turn the ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position

PROCEDURE 3
CATALYTIC CONVERTER MONITOR
Drive Cycle Pattern
Inspection Conditions
Atmospheric temperature: -10°C (14°F) or more.
Condition of A/T: Selector lever D range.
Engine coolant temperature: Not set.
Time required: 16 minutes or more.
Drive cycle pattern: One trip monitor (from start to ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position). Will be completed while traveling with the following drive cycle pattern.
Test Procedure
Engine: start.
Accelerate until the vehicle speed is 89 km/h (55 mph) or more.
Travel for 300 seconds or more while keeping the vehicle speed at 89 km/h (55 mph) or more.
Decelerate until the vehicle speed is within 80 km/h (50 mph) or less.
While traveling at 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph) for 10 minutes or more, fully close the throttle at least once in 2 minutes and decelerate for 10 seconds or more.
Do not repeat deceleration too often.
Vehicle speed may go below 56 km/h (35 mph) after the deceleration.
Stopping and braking are permitted. (If stopped or drive at 56 km/h (35 mph) or less for more than 5 minutes the monitoring may be stopped. In this case please restart monitoring from the beginning.)
After completing the above deceleration, bring the vehicle speed back to 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph) and keep it in the range until starting the deceleration again.
Repeat the above deceleration at least 5 times.
Return the vehicle to the shop, then turn the ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position

PROCEDURE 4
HEATED OXYGEN SENSOR MONITOR
Drive Cycle Pattern
Inspection Conditions
Engine coolant temperature: 100°C (212°F) or more.
Atmospheric temperature: -10°C - 60°C (14 - 140°F) or more.
Condition of A/T: Selector lever D range.
Time required: 16 minutes or more.
Drive cycle pattern: One trip monitor (from start to ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position). Will be completed while traveling with the following drive cycle pattern.
Test Procedure
Engine: start.
Accelerate until the vehicle speed is 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph).
While keeping the accelerator pedal opening degree constant, keep the vehicle speed at 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph) and travel for 16 minutes or more.
Stopping and braking during this operation are permitted. Keep the accelerator opening degree constant for 1 minute or more after each acceleration.
Return the vehicle to the shop, then turn the ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position

PROCEDURE 5
EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION (EGR) SYSTEM MONITOR
Drive Cycle Pattern
Inspection Conditions
Engine coolant temperature: 100°C (212°F) or less.
Atmospheric temperature: 5 - 60°C (41 - 140°F).
A/C switch: OFF.
Condition of A/T: Selector lever D range.
Time required: 16 minutes or more.
Drive cycle pattern: One trip monitor (from start to ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position). Will be completed while traveling with the following drive cycle pattern.
Test Procedure
Engine: start.
Accelerate until the vehicle speed is 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph).
While traveling 16 minutes or more at 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph) with engine speed 2,000 r/min or above, fully close the throttle at decelerate for 5 seconds or more until the engine speed reaches 1,000 r/min or under.
Do not repeat deceleration too often.
Stopping and braking are permitted (Rapid deceleration and sharp steering are not permitted).
After completing the deceleration, bring the vehicle speed back to 56 - 80 km/h (35 - 50 mph) and keep it in the range until starting the deceleration again.
Repeat the above deceleration at least 8 times by fully closing the throttle valve.
Return the vehicle to the shop, then turn the ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position

PROCEDURE 6
OTHER MONITOR (Main Components, Sensors & Switches, Wire Breakage & Short Circuit)
Drive Cycle Pattern
Inspection Conditions
Engine coolant temperature:
100°C (212°F) or less (Except engine coolant temperature sensor monitoring).
30°C (86°F) or less (Engine coolant temperature sensor monitoring).
Atmospheric temperature:
5°C (41°F) or more (Except engine coolant temperature sensor monitoring).
-10°C (14°F) or less (Engine coolant temperature sensor monitoring).
Condition of A/T: Selector lever D range.
Time required: 21 minutes or more.
Drive cycle pattern: One trip monitor (from start to ignition switch to "LOCK" (OFF) position). Will be completed while traveling with the following drive cycle pattern.
Test Procedure
Engine: start
Accelerate until the vehicle speed is 56 km/h (35 mph) or more.
While keeping the accelerator pedal opening degree constant, keep the vehicle speed at 56 km/h (35 mph) or more and travel for 16 minutes or more.
Return the vehicle to the shop.
After stopping the vehicle, continue idling for 5 minutes, and then turn the ignition switch to the "LOCK" (OFF) position. Moreover, the vehicle should be set to the following conditions for idling.
A/C switch: OFF
Lights and all accessories: OFF
Transmission: Neutral

Sep 15, 2010 | 1998 Mitsubishi Eclipse

1 Answer

Fast idle


Sounds like your throttle position sensor is bad.
Take it to Auto Zone and ask them to pull any computer codees that may be latched. Not sll codes trigger the check engine light

Apr 04, 2010 | 1999 Buick Century

1 Answer

99 ford expedition, abs light stays on, front brakes seem to be dragging


When was the last time you changed the front brake pads?
Try this:
Keep the brake pedal pressed down and start the car, after it idles for about 10 second let go of the pedal. If the light comes on just as you leave the pedal - try pumping it a few times, turn the car off and pump the pedal some more until it becomes real hard.
Then, keeping your foot to the pedal, start the car.
Idle for about 10 seconds, let go of the pedal and press it again rel fast.
If the light doesnt come on again - it means you have a leak of some sort or that the main brake pump should be replaced.

Good luck.

Jul 11, 2009 | 1999 Ford Expedition

1 Answer

Will not drop down from fast idle when first started


It sounds like an automatic choke system. Let it warm up for 5 minutes and then give it gas up to 2000rpm and release.

Nov 19, 2008 | 2007 Ford E-150 XLT Wagon

2 Answers

High fast idle at start up.


On most newer cars there is a fast idle motor controlled by the computer that will hold the fast idle till the engine reaches a preset temp in the computer then the engine should drop down to the set idle according to specs for that car. If the oil pressure continues to stay low after the idle goes down you may need to replace the oil pressure sending unit or if worse case the oil pump.

Nov 18, 2008 | 2003 Hyundai Tiburon

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