My mechanic said I'd want to fix the passenger front hub bearing assembly this summer I haven't yet, but I'd like to go out of town a few hours away today for the holiday I've never had any probs with it, but I am a little freaked out it's going to break down on the innerstate what exactly is this prob and if it could break down all of sudden, would it be dangerous?
Hi there when did your mechanic say to repair bearing how long ago? and why did you bring it to him , did you hear noise or did you feel shaking ? if you brought it into shop because of shaking then its advisable not to drive it for to much longer because it could damage your cv joint that drives your tires and could even leave you stuck . if you brought it in to the shop because you heard noise from tire then you could probably get away with a gentle highway ride stopping evry so often to let it cooldown and keep your speed down a bit slower than you would normally drive . keep your eyes open and remember to have it repaired soon as you get back from trip ok , goodluck dont drive to fast and if this helped you then rate me as fixya.
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Hello, sorry to tell you but you can't replace the wheel bearings. All the
wheel bearings are sealed in a hub. You will need to replace the whole hub
assembly. This hub assembly will fit either side left or right. The last one
replaced was on 2005 Dodge Diesel 4X4 truck. I think the hub assembly was about
$235. It quit a job to replace the hub assembly. You will need some tools for
large bolts, 18" breaker bar, and maybe with cheater, large sockets, 1/2 drive
will due, need some blue/red lock tight, cleaner to clean the threads on the
bolts, and also most of these hub assembly are rusted to inter control arm hub.
It is a very hard job to get this bearing hub assembly off, especially if it is
rusted on. I used a torch on the Dodge finally after two day of working on it.
It should have been 3 hrs job but I also had to replace upper and lower ball
joints. Replacing the ball joints is another job in itself and needed special
tools for this job.
If you don't have the tools for this job I wouldn't try it. It is a very hard
job with the tools.
Maybe some of your friends have the tool to tackle this job, if not, then
your local mechanic (good mechanic, not one that says he/she is a mechanic) I
started when I was 8 years old in my father shop and now I'm 70 years old and
this isn't my profession, I'm electrical engineer.
If you going to have some shops do this job. Get three or four estimate for
the job and if they haven't done a hub replacement job. Then have a mechanic
that has done job, they will know what it takes.
They will probably give a better job and the cost will fall within the
estimated range for repair.
Buddy, I wish you lot of luck in this endeavor. GB...stewbison
Front wheel bearings are expensive because they come as an entire hub assembly, but the labor isn't too bad, maybe 1 hour. The rear bearings are relatively cheap, but the labor to get to them is long. The axle has to come out, so that means the differential needs to be opened. The brakes have to be disassembled. Depending what kind of deal you can get a front hub assembly for, the rear bearings will probably cost you more.
Hello texasjagfan: My name is Roger and I will help you. The front hub bearings are press out bearings and you will need a press in order to change them. You will need to remove the front spindle to gain access to the bearings.You also will need an alignment when finished replacing the front bearings. The rear bearings are a hub and bearing unit.
Should you need further help please just ask. Please rate the answer. Thank You for using Fix Ya. Roger
The front wheel bearing is a multi-piece hub type of bearing, and the hub assembly does have to be pressed back together if you want it re-assembled correctly, and I have seen people try and use a drift and hammer to replace that bearing and all that they managed to accomplish was to cause even more damage and had to also replace the hub flange. You can save a lot of money by removing the entire steering knuckle/hub assembly from the vehicle, and take it and a new bearing to a machine shop, and they will usually not charge very much to press that bearing for you, then all you have to do is simply replace the steering knuckle/hub assembly.
About an hour a side...This is the whole job and pictures....
The hub and wheel bearing unit is serviced as a complete assembly. Replacement of the front drive hub and bearing assembly can be done without having to remove the steering knuckle from the vehicle. However, if the hub/bearing assembly is frozen to the steering knuckle, removal of the steering knuckle is required.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Remove the cotter pin from the end of the stub axle. Remove the nut lock and spring washer. With the brakes applied, loosen, but do NOT remove the axle nut and washer with the vehicle still on the ground or damage to the wheel bearing will result.
Raise and safely support the vehicle. Remove the wheel.
Remove the front brake caliper assembly from the steering knuckle assembly and support from the strut assembly using a strong piece of wire.
Remove the front brake rotor from the hub/bearing assembly.
Remove the retaining nut and washer from the halfshaft stub axle.
Remove the ABS wheel speed sensor from the steering knuckle.
Remove the 4 hub and bearing assembly mounting bolts from behind the steering knuckle.
Remove the hub and bearing assembly from the steering knuckle.
Thoroughly clean the mating surfaces of the steering knuckle and the hub and bearing assembly of any foreign material or nicks so the surfaces are clean and smooth.
Install the new hub and bearing assembly and tighten the mounting bolts in a crisscross pattern to 45 ft. lbs. (65 Nm). Be sure the hub and bearing assembly is seated squarely against the front steering knuckle.
Install the disc brake rotor.
Install the brake caliper assembly onto the steering knuckle.
Install the axle washer and nut. Tighten but do not torque.
Install the ABS wheel speed sensor.
Install the wheel and lug nuts. Torque the lug nuts, in sequence, to 95 ft. lbs. (129 Nm).
Lower the vehicle. Do NOT roll the vehicle until the axle nut has been properly torqued or damage to the front wheel bearings will result.
With the vehicle's brakes applied, torque the axle nut to 180 ft. lbs. (244 Nm). Install the spring washer, nut lock and a new cotter pin. Wrap the cotter pin prongs tightly around the axle nut lock.
Reconnect the negative battery cable. Check the wheel alignment.
The hub/bearing assembly is attached to the steering knuckle with four bolts
Removing a hub/bearing assembly
If the hub/bearing is "frozen" to the steering knuckle, separate the ball joint and lightly tap on the hub/bearing from behind
The hub/bearing assembly should free itself from the steering knuckle
I've never heard a hub make a rattle noise. A bad hub bearing will usually make a roaring or whining noise at speed and/or it will have play in it. When is the rattle noise made, over bumps, at a slow speed, at high speeds?
usually they are an assembly but when i get crazy and damage studs i raise and support both front wheels so i can turn them and slowly move the hub where you can fit teh stud in and use an open lugnut to tighten down it will pull the stud in (i use an air compressor for this)