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Re: 2000 Hyunda Accent Australian version
Remove the tire, remove the cailiper mounting bolts. With a "C" clamp push the pisotn back in the the caliper. When you push the piston back, crack the bleeder valve to let the pressure out while compressing. Before you release the "C" clamp, tighten the bleeder valve. Re-install in reverse of removal.
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did you remember to put the new o ring in, then is it seated right, next make sure none of the hoses came loose, my experiance is that one or more of the hoses fell off. make sure all hoses are routed to the proper hose connection
depends on the system you have, Most newer cars have disc brakes on the front, and the rear brakes vary , some have drum brakes and some disc on the rear as well as the front , both versions use a PAD, drum brakes usually refer to them as brake shoes, and disc's refer to them as disc pads
2006 Accent Brakes, Suspension & Handling Specs
Four disc brakes including two ventilated discs
Electronic brake distribution
Spacesaver steel rim internal spare wheel
Strut front suspension independent with stabilizer bar and coil springs , torsion beam rear suspension semi-independent with stabilizer bar and coil springs
hi from uk the 17mm bolts you mention do not remove as these secure the caliper carrier and only need removing to facilitate disc/rotor renewal to remove caliper only if you check the rear of caliper you will see two 13mm blts top and bottom of caliper these bolts pass thro conveluted rubber boots into slide pins bolts screw into these pins and the caliper is what is known as floating caliper this means only one piston operation on caliper then caliper slides on pins tou operate both pads when brakes applied so remove the two bolts and the steel spring on front face of caliper ?(remember how it fits !) then caliper slides off the rotor leaving pads in place on the carrier you then prise out pads/wirebrush carrier points where new pads are to fit then push caliper piston back then refit caliper in reverse order ADVICE= before refitting caliper smear alittle copper grease on rear metal side of each pad this prevents squeeling of pads when braking also pull out the to pins mentioned above that fit into carrier top/bottom wipe clean and put /smear copper grease on these too then refit and push in till rubber boots reseat on the carrier lips ? when you have done both sides brakes bleed calipers this is a must ! and when you do you will see dirty fluid emmited on the fist couple of pumps on b/pedal then clean fluid ? this WILL improve b/pedal travel and more positive ? the dirty fluid is o/heated /burnt fluid which becomes compressable giving soft pedal when operated and is due to heat transfer from disc/pads over time and is conducted thro caliper piston to fluid that is why it is recommended you bleed/flush hydraulics at least 2year intervals hope the above helps you and understandable best wishes from uk
1.Remove the lower bolt and lift the caliper assembly up and secure it with a wire or some other retaining method.
2.Remove the pads.CAUTION: Do not depress the brake pedal while disassembling the pads
1.Check the pads for wear or oil contamination and replace, if necessary.• The pads for the right and left wheels should be replaced at the same time. Never "drop" or intermix brake pad sets.• All four pads must be replaced as a complete set.• When replacing the brake pad, check for deformation. When replacing the guide spring, use a new one or the used one after cleaning away foreign material.2.Check the pad for damage or deformation.Brake pad thickness:Standard value: 9 mm (0.354 in.)Service limited value: 2 mm (0.0787 in.)
1.Install the pad clips.2.Install the pads onto each pad clip. 3.Insert the piston in the cylinder using the Special Tool (09581-11000).4.Install the new pads. The shims are attached to each pad as illustratedBe careful so that the disc or pad isn't contaminated by grease.5.Install the bolt and tighten to the specified value.Tightening torqueGuide rod bolt: 22~32 Nm(220~320 kgf·cm, 16~24 lb·ft)