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Without much detail in your post I offer these refreshers: An engine needs AIR, FUEL, & SPARK. Quick checks, (for the often tempermental/sensative Rover works) if you like to try before posting more info would be: a) AIR - check wiring to Mass Air Flow sensor (MAF) which is built in to your air flow tube between primary air filter and intake plenum. Be very careful to not touch the thin wire screen you will find once opening this section of air flow tube. The screen is the receptor for temp and airflow sensors that the BeCM (brain) uses to adjust the fuel to air ratio at the injector. Spring for a can of MAF sensor aerosol spray from your local auto supply. Usually about $10. Read and follow instruction on the can exactly.
b) FUEL - Determine that you have fuel pump/pressure. Turn ignition one click short of cranking (position 2) and you should hear the hum of the in tank pump for 2-3 seconds stopping with a beep indicator from the dash area. You can also check for pressure at the fuel rail which is an aluminum tube that sits on top of the engine, above the valve covers on each side. On the passenger side fuel rail you should see a valve similar to a tire fill valve. With engine off and a heavy towel handy to absorb any fuel expelled, carefully depress the center needle of the valve just as you would to let air out of a tire. Keep yourself out of the line of fire, the squirt can go about two feet. If you have pressure. Repeat the fuel priming procedure a couple times to restore pressure. With engine off repeat the valve pressure check at fuel rail. If you have pressure again your pump is at least working.
c) SPARK - you may need a second set of eyes or someone at the ignition for this one. Pull the wire and plug from a cylinder on the passenger side of engine, i suggest the #8 which is closest to firewall. with the plug attached to wire place the sparking end near a frame bolt, engine mount or other grounding point, secure it there with a clamp or clip, then have your helper crank the engine. Lights off helps, you should see the electric spark arcing on the ground point as the engine cranks. IMPORTANT-do not hold the ignition wire while cranking and crank just long enough to determine spark and no more.
It could be fuel pump or fuel pump relay.Click here to see how to remove fuel pump.Click here to see fuel pump.See how much the fuel pump is,make sure it's that.Here's the fuel pump relay.Here's how to remove fuel pressure.
NOTE: To disconnect fuel tubes from fuel pump module, compress tabs on both sides of each nylon push connect fitting and ease fuel tube out of fuel pump module.
Disconnect fuel and vapor return tubes from fuel pump module.
Turn fuel pump locking retainer ring counterclockwise using Fuel Tank Sender Wrench D84P-9275-A or equivalent and remove fuel pump locking retainer ring.
NOTE: After fuel pump module removal, immediately cover fuel pump module opening in fuel tank in order to prevent fuel system contamination.
Remove fuel pump module and cover fuel pump module opening in fuel tank.
Remove fuel pump module O-ring seal and discard.
NOTE: When cleaning fuel pump module mounting surface on fuel tank, use caution to prevent any foreign material from entering fuel system.
Clean fuel pump module mounting flange and fuel pump module mounting surface and O-ring seal groove on fuel tank.
Apply a light coat of Premium Long-Life Grease XG-1-C, -K or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C75-B on a new O-ring seal to hold it in place and install it into the O-ring seal groove on the fuel tank.
Install fuel pump module carefully to ensure that filter is not damaged. Make sure that locating keys are in keyways and O-ring seal remains in place.
Hold fuel pump module in place and install fuel pump locking retainer ring finger-tight. Make sure that all locking tabs are under fuel tank lock ring tabs.
Secure fuel pump locking retainer ring by rotating clockwise using Fuel Tank Sender Wrench D84P-9275-A or equivalent until fuel pump locking retainer ring rests against stops.
Connect fuel and vapor return tubes to fuel pump module.
For 1996 Pontiac Truck Trans Sport
3.4L SFI 6cyl check this procedure for Fuel Pump... there are two different electric fuel pumps used: - A medium pressure twin turbine pump for vehicles equipped with
Throttle Body Injection (TBI).
- A high pressure roller vane pump for vehicles equipped with
Sequential Fuel Injection (SFI).
(see Figure 1)
Fig. 1: View of the fuel pump assembly and related components
The fuel pump is mounted to the fuel sender assembly inside the fuel
tank. The fuel is pumped to the engine at a specified flow and pressure
by the fuel pump. Excess fuel is returned to the fuel tank by the return
pipe. The fuel pump delivers a constant flow of fuel to the engine even
during low fuel conditions and aggressive vehicle maneuvers.
When working on or near the fuel tank, be sure to observe the
information molded on the bottom of the tank. Removal & Installation
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
(see Figure 2)
Fig. 2: Exploded view of the fuel pump-to-tank mounting
Drain and remove the fuel tank.
Remove the fuel sender assembly.
Disassemble the fuel pump strainer and the fuel pump: Note the
position of the strainer in relation to the pump.
(see Figure 3)
Fig. 3: Remove the fuel tank locking ring with a non-sparking
Support the fuel pump in one hand, and grab the strainer in the
Rotate strainer in one direction and pull off pump. Discard
(see Figure 4)
Fig. 4: Exploded view of the fuel pump components
Disconnect the fuel pump electrical connector.
Loosen the two connecting clamps, if equipped.
Place the fuel sender assembly upside down on the work bench.
Pull the fuel pump downward to remove it from the mounting
bracket, then tilt the pump outward and remove it from the connecting
hose or the fuel pulse dampener.
It is recommended to replace the hose and clamps, if equipped.
Do not run the pump unless submerged in fuel To install:
Push the fuel pump assembly into the attaching hose. Attach the
pump electrical wires and fasten the hose clamps to the attaching hose
and around the pump body, where equipped.
Place the fuel tank sender and pump assembly into the fuel tank.
Use a new O-ring seal during assembly.
most times is the cluth hidraulic system that malfunctions, it consist of a pump linked to the pedal and a receptor most times inside the transmission, check the pump first it has to build good pressure when press the pedal you need help to check this, or take it mto a shop so they can check the problem
First you need to see if the remote central locking is working. It sounds like your transponder(key) is un synchronized. Even if the central locking is working there is a d.a.s.(driver authorization problem). Try your other key if you have one. There is a way to resynch the key w/o a factory scan tool but you have to follow the directions exactly and be quick. Point key at door receptor.( grab handle area) Hold the lock button down and press the unlock button 5 times in 10 seconds while holding down the lock button. hold the lock button down the entire 10 seconds even if you've hit the button 5 times. after the 10 seconds is up release and hit the lock button again. The d.a.s. system shuts off your fuel pump when their is an authorization error. It is a common problem in 98 and 99 ml's. Your owner's manual tells you how to resynch the key if my description is difficult to follow. Hopefully I have been helpful
the problem is probabely with the key itself.the two little metal pieces on the starting key must touch the two little receptors in the ignition in order for it to read that that is the proper key to be starting the car.try moving the key in and out of the ignition rapidly the receptors may be stuck also clean the two metal pieces on the key with a q tip and rubbing alcohol