Question about 1996 Cadillac DeVille

1 Answer


Posted by on


1 Answer

  • Level 3:

    An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points


    An expert that got 10 achievements.


    An expert that got 5 achievements.

    Vice President:

    An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.

  • Master
  • 373 Answers

You need to put more freon, if you put the right amount.
You need to check the ciclyng switch.
If you put too much freon the hight pressure switch cut of the compressor. check that too.

Posted on Jul 04, 2008


1 Suggested Answer

  • 2 Answers

SOURCE: I have freestanding Series 8 dishwasher. Lately during the filling cycle water hammer is occurring. How can this be resolved

A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need.
Good luck!

Posted on Jan 02, 2017


Add Your Answer

Uploading: 0%


Complete. Click "Add" to insert your video. Add



Related Questions:

1 Answer

Air conditioner in my truck does not work all the time.

Check wiring and connector going to the compressor. Check A/C relay contacts or try a different relay, check charge on system, as the compressor won't kick on without sufficient charge in the system and/or air in the system.

Jul 22, 2014 | 2000 Nissan Frontier

1 Answer

How to install a 1999 yukon ac compressor


Follow below...



CAUTION: Refer to Battery Disconnect Caution in Cautions and Notices.

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
2. Recover the refrigerant.
3. Remove the drive belt.
4. Disconnect the refrigerant hose assembly from the compressor.
5. Cap or plug all of the open connections.
6. Disconnect the electrical connectors, as necessary.
7. Remove the bolts.
8. Remove the compressor from the bracket.
9. Drain the compressor oil.
10. Measure the compressor oil. Refer to Adding Oil .


1. Fill the compressor with oil. Refer to Adding Oil .
2. Install the compressor to the bracket.

NOTE : Refer to Fastener Notice in Cautions and Notices.

3. Install the compressor mounting bolts.

Tighten the bolts to 50 N.m (37 lb ft) .

4. Connect the electrical connectors, as necessary.
5. Install the refrigerant hose assembly to the compressor.
6. Install the drive belt.
7. Connect the negative battery cable.
8. Charge the system. Refer to Refrigerant Recovery and Recycling, Adding Oil, Evacuating and Recharging Procedures .
9. Inspect the system for leaks.

I hope this helps.


Dec 03, 2010 | 1999 GMC Yukon

3 Answers

I changed the evaporator core and recharged the system but the A/C is still blowing hot air.

The first thing is to make sure the compressor is turning on, also check to make sure the blend door is moving you may have a bad blend door motor,also how are your preasures? low side and high side this well tell you if the compressor is good or if there a block ,make sure you connected everything back just double check the connection.

Aug 06, 2010 | 2001 Chevrolet Monte Carlo

1 Answer

AC Compressor clicks

The noise is the clutch on the front of the AC Compressor. This is a common problem on late ninety's Doge Rams. The clutch is inside the AC pulley. It is electronically controlled. Their are two wires coming off the AC compressor near the pulley. Follow these two wires and you will find a wiring harness connector that you can pull apart. Disconnecting this connector will stop the clutch from activating, saving you a little bit of gas too. But the AC will not work while these two wires are disconnected. I disconnect these for the winter to save on gas and noise. I don't know what causes these to activate so much.


Aug 17, 2009 | 1998 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

Air conditioning problems...air flow nothing cool

You need to double check the refridgerant charge - system holds anywhere from 2 1/2 to 3 pounds of R134a refridgerant. If you are sure refridgerant charge is correct I suspect it is a low side pressure cycling switch problem. Located on the passanger side towards the back of the engine on the silver accumulator - unplug connector; jump the two terminals together - if a/c compressor clutch comes on and stays on replace the switch.

Aug 02, 2009 | 2000 Cadillac Escalade

3 Answers

On my 2004 xterra, the compressor operates, but a/c blows hot air. i have charged it and that lasted 1 day. now hot air again.

The engine drive belt operates the AC compressor. The OUTER pulley on the compressor , where the belt is, is always turning when the engine is running. When the AC is turned on, a CLUTCH on the compressor is engaged and connects the outer pulley to the compressor shaft. So, when the compressor is actually working, the outer pulley AND the inner ring just behind the outer pulley are both turning. When the AC is off (or not working correctly, as in your case), only the outer pulley turns.

It sounds like there is a major leak somewhere in the system. If you want to try and to find the leak yourself, there is a product in auto parts stores that is made for this. It is a canister, like the refrigerant used to charge the system, that will blow out a dye in the system, where the leak is. This can help you identify where the leak is ....If this info was helpful, please post... Thanks...

Jun 27, 2009 | 2004 Nissan XTerra

1 Answer

Replace ac compressor

Service and Repair
CAUTION: When the A/C compressor is inoperative due to internal causes, clean the refrigerant system to remove any debris or contaminants to prevent damage to the replacement A/C compressor.

Replacement of the suction accumulator/drier is necessary when the A/C compressor is replaced. The A/C evaporator core orifice should be replaced whenever the A/C compressor is replaced for lack of performance, or when there is debris in the system.

  1. Recover the A/C refrigerant system following the recommended procedure. Observe all safety precautions.
  2. Drain and save the radiator coolant.
  3. Disconnect the battery ground cable.
  4. Disconnect and remove the constant control relay module.
  5. Disconnect and remove the fan and the shroud assembly.
  6. Disconnect the upper and the lower radiator hoses.
  7. Remove the radiator.
  8. Disconnect the A/C compressor clutch wire at the clutch field coil connector on the A/C compressor.
  9. Remove the top two A/C compressor mounting bolts.
  10. Raise the vehicle on a hoist.
  11. From underneath the vehicle, loosen and remove the accessory drive belt.
  12. Disconnect the Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) wire connector.
  13. Remove the A/C muffler supporting strap bolt from the subframe.
  14. Disconnect the A/C manifold and tube from the inlet tube of the A/C condenser core and the outlet tube of the suction accumulator/drier using the spring lock coupling tool or equivalent. CAUTION: Immediately install protective caps on open lines.
  15. Ensure the A/C compressor is properly supported as the bolts are removed. Remove the bottom two A/C compressor mounting bolts.
  16. Remove the A/C compressor and the A/C manifold and tube assemblies from the vehicle as a unit. Remove the assembly from the bottom, using care not to scrape it against the the A/C condenser core.
  17. Remove the A/C manifold and tube from the A/C compressor.
  18. If the old A/C compressor is to be replaced with a new one, remove the A/C clutch and the field coil assembly.
  1. Service the replacement A/C compressor with the correct amount of clean Motorcraft YN-12b refrigerant oil or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSH-M1C231-B.
  2. Lubricate the new O-ring seals with clean refrigerant oil and position them in the O-ring seal grooves of the A/C manifold and tube. Use only the O-ring seals specified for the type of A/C manifold and tube being used. NOTE: When replacing an A/C compressor, use the original manifold bolt from the removed A/C compressor to attach A/C manifold and tube to new A/C compressor. Do not use the shipping cap bolts.
  3. Apply Pipe Sealant with Teflon D8AZ-19554-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSH-M2G350-A2 to the threads of the manifold retaining bolt.
  4. Position the A/C manifold and tube with the O-ring seals to the A/C compressor. Install the retaining bolt and tighten to 17-23 Nm (12.5-17.0 ft lb) .
  1. Install the A/C compressor and the A/C manifold and tube onto the A/C compressor mounting bracket.
  1. Using new O-ring seals lubricated with clean Motorcraft YN-12b refrigerant oil or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSH-M1C231-B, connect the A/C manifold and tube to the inlet tube of the A/C condenser core.
  2. Using new O-ring seals lubricated with clean Motorcraft YN-12b refrigerant oil or equivalent meeting Ford specification WSH-M1C231-B, connect the A/C manifold and tube to the outlet tube of the suction accumulator/drier.
  3. Install the muffler support onto the subframe.
  4. Connect the HO2S wire connector.
  5. Install the accessory drive belt.
  6. Lower the vehicle to the floor and perform the following operations from the top.
  7. Install the radiator.
  8. Connect the radiator hoses and tighten the hose clamps.
  9. Install the fan and the shroud assembly.
  10. Install and connect the constant control relay module connector.
  11. Connect the battery ground cable. NOTE: On vehicles equipped with Electronic Engine Control (EEC) , when the battery has been disconnected and reconnected, some abnormal drive symptoms may occur while the EEC processor relearns its adaptive strategy. The vehicle may need to be driven 10 miles or more to relearn the strategy.
  12. Fill the radiator with the reserved coolant.
  13. Leak-test, evacuate, and charge the A/C system following the recommended procedures.
  14. Check the A/C system for proper operation.

Dec 22, 2008 | 1999 Ford Taurus

1 Answer

Electrical problem

When you are disconnecting the low pressure switch, or high pressure switch, you are stopping the power going to the A/C clutch. So, that means that your A/C clutch is shorted out. Unplug the compressor, and see if the fuse blows.If it doesn't you need a new clutch or compressor.

Sep 06, 2008 | 1994 Dodge Caravan

3 Answers

Changing the ac clutch and taking out the pully

04/11/09 2000
Chevy Cavalier Air Conditioning Clutch replacement
Just finished it. I am an novice. Use safety glasses, Dust and dirt will get in you eyes even with the protection.

Pop and raise the hood.
Loosen the left front lug nuts. Jack up car the higher the better. Install jack stands! Remove left front wheel. Place wheel under car to act as a last chance stand in case your jack stands fail.
Using 9/32 nut driver remove screws that hold plastic shielding to the inner fender well so as to expose AC compressor.
You will also have to pullout the Plastic snap things with needle nose pliers so get the plastic covers away from you work area ( I didn’t remove ALL of the plastic completely, just enough to swing it out of the way. There is a box of electrical stuff right there (wires) but the screws that were holding it to the inside wheel well had rusted away so it moved with the plastic when pulled out and away.
Pull down on the belt tensioner to loosen the serpentine belt (its hard to do) and slip the belt off of the AC compressor pulley.
Disconnect the AC Electromagnetic clutch power wires, (it is facing the front of the vehicle) the connector has little "Wings" that must be "Slightly pried apart" in order to remove the plastic connector from the compressor.
Using a 1/2" socket remove the nut that is in the center of the clutch assembly (to remove- turn it counter clockwise), I used a pry bar against the upper control arm and a notch in the Outer clutch plate to hold the A/C outer clutch plate from turning as I turned and removed the nut.

IMPORTANT! This nut that you are removing is threaded on to the A/C compressor shaft. DO NOT DAMAGE the A/C compressor shaft or the threads on which the nut is threaded.

NOTE: Be aware there is a "KEY", a small rectangular piece of metal that is on the shaft of the compressor, it will either stick to the outer clutch components or to the A/C shaft. This key is what transfers the belt energy onto the Compressor shaft (do not misplace).

This outer clutch plate is to pull straight out to leave exposed the inner clutch plate.
I suppose a few screwdrivers or chisels may do the trick but this part must come off of the compressor to get to the important next part.
I used a TIE ROD End Puller to slide the outer clutch plate out and off of the compressor shaft.
By driving the tie rod tool between the outer and inner clutch surfaces the outer clutch slid from the compressor shaft. Any wedge type device should be able to do this.

IMPORTANT! There is a "Hidden" C clip (snap ring) behind the outer clutch plate! ( I did not know this until I broke the end of the compressor nose off by pulling the pulley off with a pulley puller). Please read on...

The "C" Clip. This clip uses snap ring pliers to be removed. This clip holds the inner clutch assembly onto the compressor. The snap ring is holding onto the "Nose" of the compressor.
This clip is now "closed" you must "open" the clip so that it can be pulled off of the nose of the A/C compressor.
I used "Snap Ring Pliers" but I suppose a "Ground-to-a-point" Needle Nose Pliers "May" work.
Once you have removed the retaining ring the next thing that comes off is the inner assembly.
I used a pulley puller to remove the pulley but the Auto parts store in which I purchased the new A/C clutch would let me "Borrow" the AC clutch puller tool. This is the way to go if you are doing this on a budget. The A/C clutch puller grasps the A/C pulley on two sides and pushes against the compressor shaft, thereby sliding the inner clutch assembly EVENLY out and away from the A/C compressor "Nose".

IMPORTANT! DO NOT DAMAGE the A/C compressor shaft you will not be able to repair it if you do!
With the inner clutch assembly removed, the last thing to come off is the fragile A/C electromagnet, If you need to replace it.

The "Electromagnet":
This is a plastic coated coil of fine wire that electrical current flows through when the A/C is turned "ON" inside the car. When the current flows through it, it creates a strong magnetic field and this magnetic field pulls the outer A/C clutch parts into contact with the inner A/C clutch parts until they touch. This force is strong enough to transfer the spinning energy of the serpentine belt through the clutch onto the compressor shaft (by way of the "Key") and turn the insides of the A/C compressor to compress the liquid coolant and send it on its way through the A/C hoses.

This electromagnet came with the new clutch assembly I purchased so I changed mine. (I broke the connector off with a screwdriver earlier so I'm glad I got a new one).

NOTE: Notice where the magnet electrical connection is facing (forward- you'll need to remember).
I used several screwdrivers to evenly force the "Magnet" off of the Compressor "Nose".
It must move about 2" before it falls off, so I ended up using some "wedge like" chisels and screwdrivers to force it off by driving them between the A/C case and the back of the electromagnet (it took about 3 minutes).

Congratulations IT IS APART! Now to put the new parts back on.

New parts: Electromagnet, Inner clutch, Outer clutch
Parts to re-install: the "Snap Ring" ("C" clip), the "KEY" taken from the old outer clutch assembly (or "off of the compressor shaft" wherever it ended up being).

Position and install the new electromagnet onto the A/C compressor "Nose". Be aware of the position of the electrical connector is to face "forward" (like the way the old one was positioned).
I used the old electromagnet to be a sacrificial part when I used a small hammer to drive the new part back onto the "nose" of the Compressor. I drove it until it was almost touching the compressor bolts. (The same position as the old one was before I drove it "Evenly OFF of the Nose" with my wedges and screwdrivers).
Position and install the inner clutch assembly onto the compressor. Apply pressure evenly so the part does not "****" sideways and become stuck. I gently tapped around and around until it bottomed out.
NOW install the Snap ring using the tool you got it off with (It should just about "Push on") until it "Snaps" (locks) back into the slot that you removed it from.
I applied an anti-seize agent on the inside and outside of the shaft of the new outer clutch before I lined it up with the compressor shaft. Remember to install the Shaft "KEY" between the shaft and the notch of the outer clutch component.
Press the new outer clutch back onto the compressor. (I used a small hammer and "Gently" tapped it to where it should be.
Install the 1/2" nut you removed from the center shaft and turn it Clockwise (Tighten) until it bottoms out.
If necessary tap the outer clutch assembly until you are sure it is back to where it should be. There should be a small gap (postcard thickness or so) between the inner clutch and outer clutch surfaces.
Using your 1/2" socket be sure the nut is TIGHT ( I have no idea what the torque specification is or how to hold the outer clutch assembly from turning so I held it with my hands until I couldn’t stop it from turning).
Plug in the electrical connection.
Re-install the plastic panels using the 9/32" nut driver on the mounting screws. Snap back in the plastic fasteners into the holes from once they came.
Re install the left front tire into the car and tighten the lug nuts to the specified torque.
Carefully remove the jack stands and lower the vehicle to the ground.
Inspect your work clean and put your tools away.
Start the car, with the AC Button (Switch) "OFF" inspect the outer A/C Compressor Clutch "not turning". Listen for problematic sounds.
Turn on the A/C, with the AC Button (Switch) "ON" inspect outer A/C Compressor Clutch is "engaged" and turning the shaft of the compressor. After a few minutes the cabin air should start to cool.
This is how it should work.
With mine, the clutch did not engage, Probably because there is no refrigerant in the system so the compressor will not engage until I install at least one can of refrigerant into the A/C System (that's when a pressure sensing switch figures out that there is refrigerant in the system and it will be "OK" to run the compressor). You cant run the compressor without it's lubrication it wont let you.
So now I'm off to the parts store for a couple of cans of Freon (or what ever its called now).
I hope this helps - Good Luck!

Jul 17, 2008 | Chevrolet C1500 Cars & Trucks

Not finding what you are looking for?
1996 Cadillac DeVille Logo

Related Topics:

106 people viewed this question

Ask a Question

Usually answered in minutes!

Top Cadillac Experts


Level 3 Expert

78267 Answers

Colin Stickland
Colin Stickland

Level 3 Expert

22326 Answers

Ronny Bennett Sr.
Ronny Bennett Sr.

Level 3 Expert

6927 Answers

Are you a Cadillac Expert? Answer questions, earn points and help others

Answer questions

Manuals & User Guides