First the fan would only kick on position 5, so I replaced the resistor. It worked great for 2 days then I noticed moving the switch sometimes it would work on 1-5 sometimes only 5 and sometimes on none of them (as I was switching through them). Each time I would turn the switch I could hear a click near the light switch or steering column area (similar or the same as the click when your lights turn on). I also noticed prior to changing the resistor the day time running lights and auto night lights would turn off when I would turn the fan switch on. Any ideas? Relay or ignition?
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Re: Blower Motor problem
Sorry but most that I can give would be generic as Pontiac Grand Prix are not that common in my country. I am assuming you are referring to the fan/blowers of the A/C unit.
Based on your description and from what little I know of the circuitry/wiring of current blowers: 1. the clicking sound would be a relay engaging and therefore the speed selector switch could be assumed to be operational since it can trigger the relay; 2. the day time running lights and auto night lights turning off when engaging the fan switch indicates possibly a common supply problem. This could be a wire or terminal in the fuse block. This common B+12 supply logically would be split into several including the fan blower fuse and the lights fuse. It is also possible that said terminal is corroded or has scorched marks preventing full flow of current or be disconnected intermittently; 3. since you have changed the resistor (presumably known and tested to be good) then the problem lies elsewhere possibly back to #2 above; 4. I would discount any ignition problem as it would be more engine related and has nothing to do with the fan/blower except that it share a common IGN B+12 which again points back to possibly #2; and 5. Though am not sure, but I think your car has also a blower motor control processor which also could be at fault.
I believe your best option would be to use a DVM to check for the presence of B+ supply to the fan motor while going through the switch settings (1 to 5). Thereafter trace back until you reach the resistor and its input of +12, go further back and trace it to the fuse holder and eventually to the common supply. You would have three (3) B+12, a) always ON; b) IGN ON; and blower switch ON.
Would appreciate a post back for any developments or results of your voltage checks.
Hope this be of initial help/idea. Again, pls post back how things turned up or should you need additional information.
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Will your blower fan kick on in the medium position by chance? Med/ med high..if it is a 4 position switch, does it operate in the number 3 position? If so it is probably your blower motor resistor. If not, I would test the blower motor itself. Since the compressor kicks on when you turn the fan on, I would think the switch is working.
More than likely it's your blower motor resistor, but first thing is first check for blown fuses. If fuses are all intact locate the resistor which is usually located under the dash on the passenger side close to the blower motor case.( which will be a black plastic cylindrical box) The resistor will have a wiring harness running to it. With the key in the on position and the fan turned full on slowly move the harness around if the fan starts working, you have a bad connection or broken resistor. Which is common since people accidentally catch the wires with their feet or stretching on a long trip. If you replace the resistor disconnect your battery first, resistor is usually held in with a couple of screws, remove and be careful when installing new resistor they can be a bit fragile, best of luck!
Its more than likely a poor connection at the blower motor resistor.Its mounted on the heat duct on the passenger side with 2 screws.I would first turn the ignition and fan switches on with the fan switch on #2 or 3 then wiggle the connector on the blower motor resistor.These resistors get hot and melt the pigtail and usally loose there connection.
replace the blower motor resistor. It controls the fan speeds. It defaults to high speed only when it fails.
How to replace the blower motor resistor block:
Caution: Stay clear of the blower motor and resistor block (Hot). Do not operate the blower motor with the resistor block removed.
1. Disconnect and isolate the battery negative cable. 2. Remove the glove box from the instrument panel. 3. Pull out the lock on the blower motor resistor wire harness connector to unlock the connector latch. 4. Depress the latch on the blower motor resistor wire harness connector and disconnect the connector from the resistor. 5. Remove the two screws that secure the blower motor resistor block to the HVAC housing. 6. Remove the resistor block from the HVAC housing.
Installation: 1. Position the blower motor resistor block into the HVAC housing. 2. Install the two screws that secure the resistor block to the HVAC housing. Tighten the screws to 2.2 Nm (20 in. lbs.) 3. Connect the wire harness connector to the resistor block. 4. Push in the lock on the blower motor resistor wire harness connecgtor to lock the connector latch. 5. Install the glove box. 6. Reconnect the battery negative cable. 7. Have a nice day!
From the scenario that you have just described; more than likely your blower motor resistor pack has failed. On the highest setting, the blower motor will have no resistance from the resistor pack allowing the motor to turn the fan at full speed; however, on the lower speeds, the different resistors are what create your different speeds by varying resistance in the electrical circuit.
mine did the same thing - there is a wire harness on the passenger side that passengers kick with there feet - this can be jiggled and the fan wil start working on all speeds in my truck - hope your fix is as simple