Question about 1997 Nissan Sentra

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Boot supports cylinder

Hi,I have a problem with my boot cylinders, they cant hold up the boot when it is open.

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  • Nissan Master
  • 60,867 Answers

They will have to be replaced, they have lost there gas charge, they are easy to change out, most parts stores carry them.

Posted on Aug 22, 2008

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1 Answer

Cant find where theThermostat is on my car


follow radiator hose to engine cylinder block should see thermostat houing. the four cylinder engine you have remove exhaust manifold heat shield and remove coolant inlet pipes from the thermostat housing.also the four cylinder engine you have to raise vechicle support on jack stands you have to remove engine to transaxle support brace first before you can remove coolant inlet pipe from the radiator hose to thermostat housing.

Jan 27, 2013 | 2000 Oldsmobile Alero

1 Answer

Bleeding the clutch after installing/96 bronco xlt


Clutch Master Cylinder ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZ Inspect/Replace The clutch master cylinder is located next to the brake master cylinder. A slave cylinder is attached to the release lever at the clutch. The two cylinders are attached hydraulically by tubing and hose.
f62-17.gif A hydraulically operated clutch. To Remove:
  • Take off the reservoir cover and remove the fluid from the reservoir.
  • Disconnect any wires connected to the reservoir or master cylinder body.
  • Disconnect the tubes.
  • Remove the nuts or bolts attaching the master cylinder to the vehicle.
  • Slide the master cylinder off. If it will move only a short distance but no farther, replace one of the nuts or bolts (finger tight) to support the master cylinder and then disconnect the pushrod from the pedal. After disconnecting the clip or pin and clip holding the pushrod to the pedal, try to remove the master cylinder again.
To Replace:
  • When installing a new master cylinder, it is a good practice to flush the cylinder with clean brake fluid. This is done to remove any debris that might be left over from the manufacturing process or chemical coatings that were used to protect the cylinder from corrosion. To flush a master cylinder, simply fill the reservoirs and the cylinder bores about one-third full with clean brake fluid, install the reservoir cover, plug the line ports, shake the cylinder to work the fluid all around, and drain out all the fluid.
  • Bench bleed the cylinder.
  • If the old master cylinder used a boot or hub seal, a new one should be installed as the master cylinder is being replaced.
  • Place the master cylinder in position, replace the mounting bolts or nuts, and tighten them to the correct torque.
  • Reconnect the pushrod to the pedal as necessary.
  • Remove the plugs or bleeder tubes from the outlet port as you connect the line. Do not tighten the line yet. Place a shop cloth under the line fitting to catch any fluid that may leak out.
  • Fill the reservoir about three-fourths full with brake fluid.
  • Have an assistant slowly push the pedal as you observe the connections a the outlet port. They will probably be leaking some fluid with air bubbles. Continue the pedal strokes until only fluid with no air bubbles leaves the connection.
  • At this point, tighten the connection with the pedal is being pushed downward.
  • Fill the reservoir to the correct level and replace the cover.
  • Reconnect any wires that were disconnected.
  • Check the brake pedal free travel and adjust it if necessary. There should be 1/16 to 1/8 in. (1.6 to 3.1 mm) of free travel before the pushrod engages the piston in the master cylinder

May 08, 2012 | Ford Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Replaced master cylinder and wheel cylinders, bleed master cylinder and put all back together. Started bleeding brakes. Cant get any pressure at pedal what should I try?


First bench bleed the master cylinder. Or if its still on the car do this, have some one pump the pedal hold and open one line,do this three times, move to the next line pump three time hold and open the line. Hows the pedal. getting firmer no go ahead bleed as usual. let me know we can fix this together

Apr 22, 2011 | Volkswagen Beetle Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How do you change rear drum brake shoes on a 1999 couger.


SECTION 206-02: Drum Brake 1999 Cougar Workshop Manual REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Procedure revision date: 09/14/2001 Brake Shoes Removal
  1. Loosen the wheel nuts.
  1. Raise and support the vehicle. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02.
  1. Remove the wheel.
  1. Release the brake shoe automatic adjuster.
    v1201041.jpg
  1. Remove the brake drum.
    1. Remove the retainers (if equipped).
    1. Remove the drum.
    v1201040.jpg
  1. Make sure that the hub flange is in the correct position as shown.
    v1201042.jpg
  1. Remove the hold down springs.
    m1201030.jpg
  1. Disconnect the parking brake cable.
    1. Lever the secondary shoe outwards.
    1. Disconnect the cable from the secondary shoe.
    v1201043.jpg
  1. Disconnect the shoes from the anchor block.
    1. Disconnect the shoes from the anchor block.
    1. Remove the lower return spring.
    v1201044.jpg
  1. ani_caut.gif CAUTION: Do not damage the wheel cylinder boots.
    Detach the shoes from the wheel cylinder.
    v1201045.jpg
  1. Hold the wheel cylinder pistons in place with a rubber band.
  1. Remove the upper return spring.
    v1201047.jpg
  1. Remove the primary shoe from the strut and brake shoe adjuster.
    1. Rotate the adjuster counterclockwise.
    1. Remove the primary shoe.
    v1201048.jpg
  1. ani_caut.gif CAUTION: Take care as the strut support spring is under tension.
    Detach the secondary shoe from the strut support.
    • Detach the strut from the shoe by levering the strut against the shoe.
    v1201049.jpg
  1. Remove the parking brake return spring.
    v1201050.jpg
Installation
NOTE: Install new shoes as axle sets.
  1. Clean, check and apply Silicon Dielectric Compound D742-18A331-A or equivalent meeting Ford specification ESA-M1C171-A to the backing plate contact points.
    v1201051.jpg
  1. Install the parking brake return spring.
    v1201050.jpg
  1. Install the secondary shoe to the strut and brake shoe adjuster.
    v1201052.jpg
  1. Install the primary shoe to the strut and brake shoe adjuster.
    1. Install the primary shoe.
    1. Rotate the adjuster fully clockwise.
    v1201053.jpg
  1. Install the upper return spring.
    v1201047.jpg
  1. Remove the rubber band holding the wheel cylinder pistons in place.
  1. ani_caut.gif CAUTION: Do not damage the wheel cylinder boots.
    Position the shoes to the wheel cylinder.
    v1201140.jpg
  1. Position the shoes to the anchor block.
    1. Install the lower return spring.
    1. Position the shoes to the anchor block.
    v1201141.jpg
  1. Install the hold down springs.
    v1201142.jpg
  1. Install the parking brake cable.
    1. Lever the secondary shoe outwards.
    1. Install the cable to the secondary shoe.
    v1201043.jpg
  1. Install the brake drum.
    1. Install the drum.
    1. Install the retainers (if equipped).
    v1201143.jpg
  1. Install the wheel.
    v1501127.jpg
  1. Operate the brake pedal to achieve automatic adjustment.

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Mar 05, 2011 | 1999 Mercury Cougar

2 Answers

I have a1997 plymouth grand voyager and it has been leaking brake fluid that is showing on the back rim what is causing the leak is it the brake cylinder or the brake line


Hi, the problem is usually the brake wheel cylinder inside. Put the car in park but do not set the brake. Jack up the wheel and remove the wheel and drum. At the top of the hub assembly you will see a cylinder between the tops of the shoes with rubber boots on each side. If fluid leaks out when you pull back the edge of either boot, the cylinder is leaking and must be replaced.
Purchase a new cylinder and also some brake fluid if you don't have any on hand. Check your reservoir. Hopefully it is not empty, or you would have drawn air into the system. Fill up the reservoir before replacing the wheel cylinder.
To replace, use a vice grip plier to remove the return spring that holds the shoe tops together, then pull the shoe tops away from the cylinder. Place something under the hub to catch the fluid that will leak during the replacement.
Loosen the hydraulic fitting on the back of the hub using a line wrench of the correct size, then remove the 2 bolts holding the cylinder to the hub (see picture below). Have the new cylinder handy and disconnect the line from the old cylinder. Quickly remove the old cylinder and put in the new one. Screw the line fitting on finger tight and then replace the bolts. Replace the return spring between the shoes. Tighten the line and open the bleeder valve above the fitting about one turn. The line may gravity bleed the air out. Give it a few minutes. If clear fluid starts to leak out and no bubbles, tighten the bleeder and reassemble the wheel. If it does not gravity bleed, replace the drum and have someone assist with a pressure bleed. With the bleeder closed, have the assistant pump the brake pedal and then hold it down while you open and close the bleeder. They should not let up on the pedal until you have closed the bleeder. repeat this process of ejecting air and fluid until only fluid comes out. Then replace the wheel and let the car down.
Please let me know if you have any questions, and thanks for using FixYa.

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Jan 15, 2011 | 1997 Plymouth Voyager

1 Answer

Clutch not disengaging


Replace the slave Cylinder as the boot just stops the dirt the seal inside does all the work. Make sure you bleed the cylinder when you are done.

Jul 19, 2010 | 1989 Volvo 740

1 Answer

Change the gear slave cyilinder on a toyota 4


The slave cylinder on that vehicle is located on the left hand side of the of the transmission near the bell housing, It has a steal line connected to a cylinder with a rubber boot attached to the opposite end. There is a rod that protrudes through the rubber boot that is in contact with the shift fork. It should be mounted to the side of the transmission by three bolts. First loosen the steal tube fitting and gently remove the tube from the cylinder. Next, remove the mounting bolts and remove the cylinder from the vehicle. Install the new clyinder in reverse order then bleed the air from the system. To bleed have some one else manipulate the clutch pedal. Ensure that the clutch master cylinder is full of fluid at all times and have your assistant pump the clutch pedal several times then hold the pedal to the floor. While the pedal is on the floor open the slave cylinder's bleeder valve for several seconds then close. Repeat this process until only hydraulic fluid is emitted when the bleeder valve is opened and your assistant confirms that the vehicle has a firm/normal pedal feel.

Oct 24, 2009 | 1986 Toyota Pickup 4WD

1 Answer

HYDRALIC CLUTCH BLEEDING 1993 CHEVY TRK 2500 ,AFTER REPLACING THE LINE


raise and support vechicle safely.remove slave cylinder.hold slave cylinder at a 45 degree angle.with bleeder screw at it highest point.have a helper fully depress hold clutch pedal.then open the bleeder screw. then close the bleeder screw.and have helper release the clutch pedal repeat the procedure until all of the air is evacuated from the system.keep check on on master cylinder keep fluid level full.to keep air from being drawn through the master cylinder.never release a depress clutch pedal with bleeder screw open.or air will enter the system.

Jul 19, 2009 | 1993 Chevrolet C2500

1 Answer

The liftgate will not stay open. There is fluid showing below the support cylinder on the drivers side. I believe the cylinders are shot and need instructions on replacing ford freestyle lift gate sup


for the most part there are small clips top and bottom of the cylinders use a small screw driver and pry the clips out and remove be sure to put a broom handle under the hatch or have someone to hold it up why you are replaceing them so the lift gate does not fall on you.

Apr 19, 2009 | Ford Freestyle Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Bleeding clutch slave cylinder


if you loosten the slave bleeder screw and push in the clutch pedal fluid should come out if not make sure someone holds down the pedal and tighten the screw then pump the clutch a few times and hold the pedal and open the screw if no fluid repeat a couple of times if still no fluid you need either a new master cylinder or just rebuild it( normally cheaper) and if you rebuild it make sure you flush all the lines of debris

Aug 05, 2008 | 2001 Honda Accord

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