Question about 2000 GMC Jimmy

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Me again Hey im the one w/ the jimmy 2000, got the caliper problem, ive put 2 crush washers on both but im not getting any air or oil coming thru to the bleeders, do u have any other solutions to my problem?? thanx

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  • ysabelle Jul 04, 2008

    Hey thanx for the help, we found the problem with trial and error....they call for 2 crush washers but ended up only putting 1 on each side in between the little block and the caliper and lots of bleeding. Now everthing is good but thanx for the help!!

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Did you happen to replace the calipers?? If so, you may have gotten the calipers installed on the wrong side. The bleeder valves should be pointed up. Another thing for you to check is have an assistant pump up the brake pedal and hold them. While they're being held down, crack open one of the lines on the master cylinder to make sure you have fluid squirting out. If not, your master cylinder is bad.

Posted on Jul 04, 2008

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Need to know how to change brakes rotors and calibers on 1996 gmc jimmy


Hi Friend:

#1) Break Loose your Lug Nuts,Just A Little don't Take-them off yet.

#2) Jack Front end off the Ground,Support with Good jack stands,Keep Truck in Park and Emergency brake Applied.

#3) Now Take off your Front Wheels-Tires.

#4) Now on the Inside of your brake rotor on each side,there are 2-Caliper mounting bolts. Allen Bolts 3/8" Allen Socket or Allen Wrench.Break the 2-Bolts loose and Remove them.

#5) Now after the Caliper Bolts are removed ,Loosen the Brake Line going to the Calipers using a Flare wrench.You'll need to have a Drain Pan handy to Catch the Brake Fluid.

#6) Now you'll need a C Clamp ,to compress the caliper piston back in the Caliper. NOTE: before you compress the Caliper pistons ,take off the master cylinder cover and using a suction bulb remove about 1/2 of the fluid from the Front Resevoir.the larger of the two.

#7) Now placing the C-Clamp over the Caliper housing turn it clockwise to compress the Piston all the way in.

#8) now you can remove your caliper and the pads,same for Both Sides. AND remove your Rotors they are held on by the Calipers and your Lug-Nuts.It Should come right off ,if its a little rusted and Stubborn take a Plastic Headed Hammer and Tap it all around the Old Rotor.Until it comes off.

#9) Now Slide your new Rotors on the HUB and over the lug nuts.

#10) Get your new caliper Making sure you have the Correct Caliper its Marked Left or Right Sides. It will only work on the Side its made for.

#11) Now put your Anti Rattel Clips on the Correct Sides(Inside) that fit into the New Caiper Piston.also use some brake lube on the back on the new brake pads where they touch the caiper housing.

#12) With both pads in the Caliper Slide the Caliper over your New Rotor. This is for both sides.

#13) Put your brake line back on using the new brass washers that came with your rotors/or Caipers.

#14) Now Put your Caliper Mounting bolts in and tighten up to 38 Foot Lbs.

#15) When you have both sides done Fill up your master Cylinder about a 1/4 " from top.

16) Now you'll need to bleed them ,Get a Friend and have them Slowly push the brake pedal down,after he says its down you open the bleeder valve until fluid and air come out==Now tighten it back before your friend raises his foot up off the pedal.During bleeding keep checking your Master Cylinder to keep it full of fluid.

#17) Start your bleeding from the Right Rear to Left Rear to Right Front and Last Left Front. Always bleed from the farthest brake or Wheel from the Master Cylinder and work your way to the Master.

#18) After you have No air coming out of the bleeder valve and you do have good clean brake fluid.Your Done Bleeding;You should have a Good tight and High Brake Pedal. NOTE: you DON't start the Truck to bleed the brakes.

#19) Now just Put your Tires back on and Tighten your Lug Nuts and you should have good Brakes.

I'm sure that this will get you good brakes and on the Road Again.

Thanks for Using Fixya Please let me know How my Solution Helped you by Voting For the Quality of my help.

Thanks Again: From: d_hubbs

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If it's 4x2 you'll have to remove the caliper. Take off the dust cover on the rotor. Remove the cotter pin, spindle nut, and washer, to pull the rotor off and grease the inner bearing.

If it's 4x4...Loosen the lugs. Remove the axle shaft nut and washer. Jack it up. Pull the wheel. Remove the caliper/bracket. Trace the ABS sensor wire into the inner fender and unplug it. Remove the nuts/clips that hold the wire from moving around. Look on the back of the hub (spindle) for the three bolts that hold the hub and bearing in place. Remove them and pull out the hub and bearing.

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1 Answer

The check light is on and after starting the engine, i can see oil on the floor


That's not good.

Check engine light could be due to low oil pressure caused by the loss. If you have some engine oil nearby, top-off your car (to prevent seizing) and then get to a local auto parts store or dealer and get them to run the engine code (auto parts store will do it for free, dealer won't).

The engine code should reveal what is wrong, but it sounds, at the minimum, the crush washer that goes beneath the bolt in the oil drain pan needs to be replaced - some times after an oil change a mechanic might over-tighten that bolt and damage the crush washer too much. The crush washer is design to distort to cause an air-tight seal and prevent leaking. Leaking oil would reduce pressure and, in turn, cause check engine light to come on

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1 Answer

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You should have a crush washer on each side of the banjo bolt. You may be loosing your pressure to everything else by all the brake fluid leaking. You may have to go through the motions a few times before you see the fluid come out of the rear.

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