Brakes no longer work in 1989 Chevy half ton pickup 2 wheel drive 350cubic inch
Hi, I replaced the master cylinder, calipers, rotors, pads (front).
Bled brakes and have good pedal. Started the engine and the brake pedal
is right to the floor. I changed the booster, started it up and the
brake pedal is right to the floor. Prior to this work brakes were
working. Is it possible that the proportioning valve needs to be
replaced? Have heard many different solutions.
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Replace caliper slides and hardware grease with high temp or caliper grease. Clean caliper mounts if problem persists mounts could be warped or bent. Or worst case both wheel bearings are bad. Also check master cylinder by using block off plugs (remove lines at master cylinder and replace with brass plugs) if the pedal doesnt return properly the problem is the master cylinder.
Hello, the front pads are an easy job, biggest part to all the disassembly is whether the Rotors come off easy or not. You have many choices in pad composition and whether you want to keep old Rotors and recut them or just buy new Rotors.
If you have a 4x4 the Rotors come off the same as in a 2 wheel drive. There are 2 mounting bolts for the Caliper and 2 bigger mounting bolts for Housing assembly. When you remove the Caliper, hang it with a rope or wire underneath the SUV. Do not let it dangle by its hose.
There are mounting clips termed "Hardware" which must be replaced and you need to grease the hardware with a special brake grease like "Slid-ease". Another chemical for the pad is a red pad mounting paste which prevents rattles. Reassemble housing, pads and Caliper and when doing so, you need to compress the Caliper pistons to provide clearance for the new thicker pads.
You can use the old pad and a "C" clamp or pry against the old pad to push in the Caliper pistons. Sometimes it helps to remove the Master Cylinder lid as fluid will return to the Master Cylinder.
The rear brakes I recommend a Brake shop. You have 2 sets of brakes on each axle. If you decide just to throw pads on this end and the Rotors are good its like winning the Lottery. But if you have to remove the Rotors, you have to deal with the Emergency brakes. The E brakes need to be adjusted so the Rotor will come off and then you will appreciate a Brake shop.
The Brake cables from the inside of your SUV to the rear wheels have to work or the E brakes won't. Some states with mandatory Vehicle inspections or Commercial DOT ratings require annual inspections.
If you have any further questions you can use the reply feature on this site. I would also recommend using an Antiseize compound inside the rotors where the rotor contacts the hubs and stud bolts. I hope you find my solution very helpful.
will try to help. 1st remove the wheel, then remove the 2 caliper bolts that hold the brake caliper on. after removal of brake caliper, [it should just pull off after the 2 bolts are removed] replace the brake pads[be sure to apply anti squeal lube to the outer side of the pads..not the pad itself,the one not contacting the brake rotor] install the pads, the you will need a C clamp to push the brake caliper pistons back into the caliper. i've used this installation easily. use the old pad ,place it against the caliper piston,then apply the C clamp and push the caliper piston back into the brake caliper, then the brake caliper will slide back over the new pads easily, no need to bleed the brakes if you use this solution. replace the brake caliper bolts, then go to next side and repeat the process. after the replacement of the front brake pads,pump the brakes with engine running!!! it's really a simple process. be sure the brake pads are facing the brake rotors with the [pads] facicing the rotors. no metal facing metal. easy! if you have added brake fluid recently, do not be alarmed if you see fluid coming out of the brake master cylinder,when you use the C clamp to collaspe the brake caliper back into the recessed position. [as always when you have to add brake fluid to the brake master cylinder,it only means your brakes are wearing naturally. if you have a vibration in front wheels or steering wheel when braking, you have a brake rotor or both front brake rotors that need replacement with your brakes also. hope this helps and as always, please get a second opinion if you have doubt. an expert will be happy to help. thank you for choosing fixya.com
Buy brake pads. loosen lugs Jack car, place on jack stand turn wheel so front of tire is pointing out. remove tire remove caliper (two bolts on back side of caliper slide caliper off rotor. (if rotor is damaged, see about having it turned or replaced) take pads off caliper open hood and remove cap to mater cylinder reservoir using special tool (or C-clamp and something to protect piston) push the piston back into the caliper fully. place new brake pads on caliper. fit caliper on the rotor Secure caliper to wheel with bolts replace wheel remove jack stand remove jack tighten lugs on wheel replace hubcap start engine (do not drive yet!!!!!) pump brake pedal until it tightens up observe reservoir on master cylinder (fill if needed) replace cap pump brakes again take out for a test drive.
They are actually pretty simple, but check or replace the rotors before you install new pads. The front discs have 2 bolts per caliper as do the rears. There are hardware clips that are different on the front and rear.
You unbolt the caliper and tie it up with a rope or coat hanger so the caliper does not hang by the brake hose. Service the rotors and then when you are ready to replace the caliper, you take off the master cylinder cover. Then you use a "C" clamp to drive the caliper piston flush into the caliper. Doing this will force Brake fluid back into the Master cylinder. This is why the Master cylinder cap must be off. Attach the brake pads with a chemical to eliminate rattles and then slide the loaded caliper over the rotor. Attach the 2 bolts on the caliper and then you are ready to bleed the system.
Repeat this on each wheel and then bleed all 4 wheels. There will be very little air in the system using this method. The back brakes have the E-Brakes inside the rotors. If you pull off the rear rotors you will have to loosen the E-brakes by turning the Starwheel inside the rotor to allow for more clearance. Adjust the same Starwheels by tightening until independent wheel drags substantially, then loosen up 5 or more clicks on the Starwheel.
The calipers will take care of themselves and center themselves through use. Thats about all I can say about this process. I hope this helps you.
YOU NEED REMOVE A LITTLE BRAKE FLUID FROM MASTER CYLINDER.THEN YOU RAISE VECHICLE SAFELY.SUPPORT IT WITH JACK STAND.MAKE SURE VECHICLE IS ON LEVEL SOLID GROUND.REMOVE TIRE OR WHEEL.THEN YOU NEED A LARGE C - CLAMP.PLACE C - CLAMP OVER BRAKE CALIPER AND BRAKE SHOE BACKING.TIGHTEN C - CLAMP JUST ENOUGH PUSH CALIPER PISTON BACK IN CYLINDER BORE TO REMOVE CALIPERS FROM ROTORS.TO REMOVE BRAKE CALIPER YOU NEED 2 OPEN AND BOX END WRENCHES ONE TO HOLD CALIPER SLIDE PINS AND THE OTHER WRENCH FOR LOOSEN CALIPER BOLTS.THEN YOU REMOVE CALIPER AND REPLACE FRONT BRAKE SHOES.IF YOU NEED TO REMOVE BRAKE ROTORS JUST REMOVE THE BRAKE CALIPER CARRIER SUPPORT BOLTS THE REMOVE THE BRAKE CALIPER CARRIER SUPPORT THEN REMOVE ROTOR.YOU NEED TO REPLACE BOLTS WITH NEWS AND USE LOCK TIGHT.THEN YOU PUT IN NEW BRAKE PADS IN CALIPER PUT CALIPER BACK ON SUPPORT CARRIER.REPLACE WITH NEW BOLTS USE LOCK TIGHT THEN TORQUE BOLTS TO 26 FT LBS.MAKE SURE MASTER CYLINDER COVER IN PLACE.WHEN YOU FINISH REPLACING BOTH FRONT BRAKE PADS PUMP BRAKE PEDAL TO SEAT BRAKE SHOES AGAINST BRAKE ROTORS SO YOU WILL HAVE FIRM BRAKES WHEN YOU APPLY THEM. THEN CHECK YOUR BRAKE FLUID LEVEL IN MASTER CYLINDER MAKE SURE ITS NOT LOW. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE FIRM BRAKES BEFORE DRIVING.IF YOU HAVE ANY PROBLEMS CHANGING FRONT BRAKE PADS YOU CAN GO TO ANY AUTO PARTS STORE AND BUY A HAYNES REPAIR MANUAL.
Park the Mazda6 on a flat paved surface. Apply the parking brake and release the hood latch. Place a wheel chock behind one of the rear tires and open the hood. **** out half the fluid from the master cylinder reservoir using the turkey baster and discard. Replace the master cylinder cap securely.
Break the lug nuts loose on the front tire, using the breaking bar and a 21-mm socket. Raise the left quarter panel first with the floor jack and place the jack stand under the left front frame rail. You can lift the right side too or just do one side at a time. Remove the lug nuts and the wheel when elevated.
Pry the two plastic caliper slide bolt covers off with the flathead screwdriver and remove the caliper slide bolts with the ratchet and a socket. Pry the caliper off the pads and rotor with the screwdriver and support it to the coil spring with the bungee cord so it does not dangle by the brake hose. Compress the piston of the caliper inward using the C-clamp until the piston bottoms out in the caliper casing.
Remove the pads from the caliper anchor by prying them out gently with the screwdriver. Be sure to memorize how they were positioned in the anchor so you can replace them the same way in the event you're not replacing the pads as well. Remove the caliper anchor bolts using the ratchet and a socket. They're going to be extremely tight, so be prepared. Remove the caliper anchor.
Locate the retaining screw on the hub face of the rotor. Use the impact screwdriver in the reverse position with a Phillips head bit and strike the end of the screwdriver with the hammer. Remove the screw. Remove the rotor. If it is stubbornly stuck to the hub, strike it a few times with force on the plated fins of the rotor.
Spray the new rotor with brake clean and be generous to clean off the oil coating that new rotors have on them so they will not rust from condensation in the air while they were in storage. Clean both sides and wipe dry with a shop rag. Place the new rotor on the hub and make sure to line up the retaining screw hole in the rotor to the hub. Replace and tighten the retaining screw.
Replace the caliper anchor and bolts and tighten tightly. Replace the pads into the caliper anchor in the same manner you removed them. Replace the caliper over the pads and rotor and replace and tighten the caliper slide bolts. Replace the plastic covers.
Replace the wheel and lug nuts and tighten the lug nuts so they are flush. Lower the Mazda6 and torque the lug nuts alternately with the torque wrench, set at 80 foot-pounds and the 21-mm socket. If you raised both sides of the front axle, wait until you've replaced the right side rotor, otherwise repeat Step 2 through Step 8 for the right side.
Pump the foot brake pedal until it feels normal to restore the hydraulic pressure back to the compressed caliper pistons. Release the parking brake.
Check and add new DOT 3 brake fluid to the master cylinder and replace the cap securely. Close the hood. Remove the wheel chock and test drive
Use a C clamp and squeeze the caliper piston back in. Put the pads in place and try it. That should do it. Remember to push on the pedal a few times before you drive it. Check the fluid before you drive it.