I am puttin a transmittion in my chevy silveraldo 1500. 1995 model. i cant get the bolts to line up. so i leave my fly wheel bolts off or do i tighten them first?

Visit the on-line store, know as reliable-store, they have the repair manuals. I'm sure you will get the solution of your problem.
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on the fly wheel. the bolt holes on one side will show where the fly wheel washers sat. if the tranny is out the way you can test fit it for both sides and see witch side lines up the best. and if there is factory paint markings on the fly wheel that is the side that needs to face the tranny.

i had the same problem, its the fuel pump relay, pull the relay, pop off the plastic top, insert a shim so that the points are always touching, the other thing it could be is the pigtail connector coming off of the fuel pump inside the tank, chronic chevy problem

REMOVE THE STARTER FLY WHEEL COVER. STARTER BOLTS IS VERTICAL BOLTED INTO THE ENGINE.

Changing the fly wheel means dropping the trany pulling the clutch. First remove both drive shafts then unhook the clutch line to the slave on the top of the bellhouse this should be a small U shaper pin you have to pull out a piece of wire can be looped through and make it easier to pull it out.

Once that is out of the way take the tanny cross member out and the exhaust Y pipe needs to come out unless you have a body lift and put a jack or something under the transfercase then take out the bottom bell housing bolts and then the top bell housing bolts then you should be able to work the tranny back mind the bolts on the radius arm cross member you may need to back them down sometimes.

Once it is out then you will have 6 of 13mm bolts on the clutch and 6 of 16 or 17mm bolts holding the fly wheel on there should be blue locktight on the flywheel bolts.

Things to note make sure the fly you your putting on has been machined if it is used put a new pilot bearing in the fly your putting on unless it is new put new clutch on or at the very least a new clutch disk trust me it is worth it.

The bolts on the drive shaft can be a pain spray them with WD-40 or equivalent the night before put never sieze on these when you put them back. When your putting the trany back in watch the clutch line it wants to be down there and it is easy to get it caught.

When you take the thin aluminum plate off take care of it with out that plate you can't start your truck right.

Additional details could find in Autozone.com. Hope this helps.

I'd spray spray down with a good penetrating oil, let set for 24 hours or so, then using a hammer hit the bolt on the head (carefull of the fly wheel) then you may want to actually try to ever-so slightly tighten the bolts then go back and try to remove.

I hope this may have assisted,
Tom

Soak in penetrating oil and remove bolts using air line. If no access to air tools then use breaker bar with constant pressure (no not bounce)

If no joy then you wheel need to heat the flywheel - if you have to do this replace the rear main seal aswel.

Regards

Lloyd Six

there is a few ways of doing thes the easiest way being using locking pins
you bont have to go and buy a set of locking pins you can use 3 m8 (13mm headded) bolts and a 5mm allen key

there is a hole in the cam pully and 2 holes in the injection pump pully and 1 in the fly wheel

i suggest you lock the fly wheel up first
the hole is located under the starter motor on the front of the block
insert the 5mm allen key and get someone to turn the crank pully clockwise until allen key engages into the fly wheel

the hole in the cam should be at about 25 past
(if it is at 10 to then you neet to remove the pin from the fly wheel and turn the crank 1 full turn)

when the hole is inthe right place you can insert a m8 bolt and wind it in to the head

with this now lined up you should be able to fit the other 2 m8 bolts into the injector pump pully

with this now done your 1.9 tdi engine is timed up

should get a honda or something :P