The rpm is not working ? after removing the cage metter and fit back that to some leather work in the car then the rpm is coming to 100 when i press gas padel it geting to 90 and also the cage light is not working can you help me

I would replace the complete axle assembly,
it would be cheaper and come with a warranty.

Instructions

1. Remove the CV Joint
   • Remove the boot straps from the CV joint using a standard screwdriver or a pair of diagonal cutting pliers.
   • Slide the boot back over the interconnecting shaft.

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     Detach the stop ring at the base of the CV joint assembly using a pair of snap ring pliers.
     

   • Pull the CV joint assembly from the interconnecting shaft to force the snap ring at the top of the shaft through the CV joint assembly.
   • Tilt the inner cage (the cage holding the balls in place inside the housing) in different angles to remove the six balls. Use your thumb or a hammer and a wooden dowel, if necessary.
   • Tilt the inner cage enough to remove it from its housing.
   • Rotate the race inside the cage--the part that holds the balls against the inner cage--and remove the race from the cage.
     Replace the CV Joint
     • Apply a thick coat of grease to the new CV joint race using special high temperature/high pressure grease (see Tips below).
     • Install the race inside the new cage. Then install the cage/race assembly inside the CV joint housing.
     • Tilt the cage at different angles and fit the new balls in place.
     • Slide a new CV joint rubber boot over the interconnecting shaft.
     • Install a new snap and stop ring on the interconnecting shaft.
     • Push the interconnecting shaft through the CV joint assembly to force the snap ring through the assembly.
     • Apply a thick coat of CV joint grease to all moving parts of the assembly.
     • Apply a coat of CV joint grease to the inside of the rubber boot. Then slide the boot over the CV joint assembly.
     • Install the boot straps at each end of the boot, and tighten the straps using a clamp tool or screwdriver, depending on the type of clamp.
     
     
     

It can be fixed but now you will need to remove it from the trans and cut the band off the larger side of the boot. then re-alighn the knuckles and slide the 3 joints in 1 at a time. You going to need a new band and the crimper which you can usualy rent from a parts store that has free tool rental. Make sure you grease the joint before you slide the boot back on. Its easier that it looks. When you pull the cv joint out of the transmission some fluid will come out too so use a drain pan. Sometimes they are a pain to get out but a good prybar and some patients usualy works. Pry as you turn the cv joint and it will pop out. Good luck!

The airbags should fit back into a groove within the leather from where they are coming out. To be on the safe side, prior to pushing them back in, remove the negative battery cable and wait about 10 mins to let the residule power drain to avoid having the bag go off during the process.

Feedback appreciated.

go to local part store they have a variety of products that can do the job

Hello. I would open it up enough to slide it on and then use a hot glue gun to secure it. If you ever want to remove it again, a hair blow dryer set on high will warm the glue up so u can remove the boot. J.

if your trying to change the squirrel cage of the blower motor,
in the center of the cage,where the motor shaft comes up thru it,there is a pinch clip that you need to squeeze together and pull off,then pull cage of shaft

Eighth generation galant 1996-2006
2001 and 2004 should have same body interior specs

take one front seat out and if the bolt holes dont line up
you save yourself a lot of time and trouble

not many DIY car owners willing to muck around
to do interior swaps

I'm not quite sure what you're describing.....A good tune-up wouldn't hurt'

To remove the radio: Remove the ashtray by raising the armrest cover and removing the two screws at the rear of the ashtray. Slide the ashtray back and then lift it out. Be careful of the two front tabs, as you don't want to break them. Reach below the wood console, where the ashtray front tabs were inserted. Loosen and remove the two wing nuts. With a small, long flat bladed screwdriver, pry out the leather shifter surround. The leather shifter surround has a center chrome retaining ring, the leather surround, and then finally a black plastic surround. The chrome retaining ring has 3-4 tabs which are locked in below the leather surround. It depends on the year of the Jaguar. Probably the 95 has three, but maybe four. They should be at the front and rear of the trim piece (2 front and 1 back, or 2 front and two back) but I've seen then on the sides. The point is, you have to be careful with the screwdriver and find the tabs. The screwdriver should be slid between the leather and the retainer. Pull upwards on the retainer gently, and as you loosen the tabs, it will come out. Remove the leather surround. Once the chrome retainer has been removed, it should be easy to work it out of the console. Loosen the black trim ring gently as it has tabs as well, but they are visible once the leather trim has been removed. Lift it upwards out of the wood trim and pull it to the side out of the way. You don't need to disconnect the wires, just lay the black trim to the side. Lift the rear of the wood console trim and gently, gently slide it back and up. It will try to hang on the leather console, and can be difficult. Patience is important, as the walnut on the ski slope cracks easy (really easy). Once the wood console trim (ski slope) is removed, you should have a row of screws up the side of the center control panel, where the radio and AC controls are. There are four to six on each side, depending on what Jaguar used at the time, as the 95 cars mechanically are somewhat of a blend of the XJ40 and the XJ300. Remove these screws, and note any spacers that were behind them. These spacers get lost quickly, and cause the ski slope to sit awkwardly on the console. The radio will slide forwards once these screws are removed. Remove the radio harness and the antenna lead. As the books say, assembly is reverse of removal.

First just try unplugging the MAF and seeing if running the car with it unplugged resolves the problem. If it does then you have a faulty MAF and need to replace it. A faulty MAF won't necessarily show up on a diagnostics check. You will find the MAF between the air box and the throttle body housing on the right hand side of the engine bay at the back. The electrical connection plug you need to remove is on the top of it... To clean the throttle body housing, remove the pipe with the MAF in it (2 jubilee clips, one either end) then either try and clean the housing with it still attached to the car or unbolt it (4 ribe-headed bolts) and clean it off the car. You will also need to unclip the throttle cable and unplug the stepper motor (the black thing on the side)... If neither of these things work then you might have a faulty throttle stepper motor. Replacing this is a specialist job as it needs to be correctly calibrated after fitting. Other people on this forum have quoted prices between £100-200 for the part, fitting and calibration. For a cam belt change you are looking at around £200-£300. The diesel sound on startup is a knackered variator (it's on the end of the inlet camshaft). It's better to get one of these fitted at the same time as the belts are changed to avoid paying additional labour charges for having the belts removed and refitted again at a later time. Add around £100 on top of the belt change for a new variator. Exhausts can be fitted by any garage.