- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
When you say that the first master cylinder had no pedal, did that just suddenly happen?
A master cylinder has rubber seals inside - think of a bicycle pump - when the bicycle pump seal wears it becomes difficult to pressurise it. The same is true of a master cylinder.
A classic sign of a master cylinder with worn or perished seals is that it needs pumping a few times to pressurise but there is no leakage of brake fluid.
Prior to you changing the master cylinder had the level of the brake fluid dropped .. indicating a leak somewhere? Had you done any work on the brake pads/rotors?
Eliminate other causes of air getting into the braking system:
First thing to do is check the flexible brake hoses on each wheel. Get a friend to pump - and hold - the brake pedal while you inspect the flexible hoses. Check for leaks (obviously) but also look to see if each flexible hose 'bulges' anywhere along its length.
Also check each flexible hose to see if it is perished or wet with fluid.
A perished flexible hose can draw in air and cause no pedal/spongy pedal. The same is true with a flexible hose that bulges/balloons when under pressure.
It only takes a slight 'weeping' from a flexi hose or rigid pipe connection to allow air into the system. Check the rigid brake pipes too - especially where there is a connector/join.
Then remove the road wheels and look for the slightest fluid leak around caliper pistons.
The problem, I think, comes back to the original fault .. no pedal when your car had sat overnight. This is rather indicative of air getting into the system somewhere though not necessarily from the master cylinder.
Check for the slightest leak in the entire braking system. It only takes a small amount of air to get in and cause problems. The fact that you fitted a second master cylinder makes me think the problem could lie elsewhere.
Try bleeding the braking system. It's a 2 man job, but quite easy.
Here's a link that explains how to do it: How to Bleed Your Brakes
check for fluid leaks at hoses , pipes and brake callipers and cylinder units. Pull the vacuum hose off the booster and check for brake fluid in the hose. (wet). Repair the fault-replace calliper leaks, replace wheel cylinders , replace brake lines and replace the brake booster.
Fill with brake fluid and bleed out starting at the longest line first and finishing at the shortest.
the best tool to use is a pipe spanner as it covers most of the nut and prevents rounding off of the nut . The difficulty will come from the amount of rust around the nut and the condition of the pipe and hose.
brake master cylinder is mounted on brake servo under bonnet . remove the metal brake pipes going to it remove 2 nuts holding it to servo remove from car fit new one fill with brake fluid dont connect pipes yet have assistant pump pedal when fluid flows out of all ports on cyl get assistant to hold pedal down now fif pipes and secure try pedal if it feels firm job done if not you willneed to bleed the whole system
I doubt it is so bad. You see, there is a rear brake line >> there is a border, say the hoses which allow the rear suspension to move w/o breaking the lines. In my opinion all the brake pipes shouldn't cost more than 100-150EUR. In the official service, of course, you can multiply, at least here in Bulgaria. My own car, VW Jetta 84 survived the change before ~ 2 months, I was replacing the original pipes judging by the outlook. Of course, your car may differ, and you have to be careful with the brakes! Lawers: I am not responsible for anything, just trying to help! Anyway, in my case: - WD-40 spray - six-sided quality wrench of appropriate size, with a small cutting, so you can pass the key over the pipe and on the nut. There are also keys with a bolt on the cutting, so you can tight the wrench on the nut. - spare set of the tubes and hoses you will replace. I got brass ones (no more rust) for very adequate prize, under 15EUR, they were ready with the nut at both ends. Replaced even both rear brake cylinders, 5EUR for piece, but don't know your part's price. As for bleeding, it was working, right? Either do not touch it, or detach both sides and bleed at will, while the pipes are open nothing will reach the cylinder. After all pipes are in place, put new liquid, blow the air out of the system (it is easy, ask if in needed), and check the nuts of the new pipes. If there is a leakage, tighten gently some more until it stops. You can fasten the new pipes with strong pigtails, putting a
oneside-cut part of hose on the pipe, so that the pigtail won't press
it on metal. This was my idea, but turned quite well. As for the fuel pipe, it is even easier. Hope I have helped, pls rate. :)
You can take the line off and take to a parts store that sells metal brake pipes by the foot,there is different size pipes as well as flared end nuts.You will have to bend the pipe to fit then bleed the brake system.Iwould suggest to take it to a shop and have a pipe made up.