Question about 1990 Peugeot 405

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Replace n/s/r brake pipe hose

I need to replace n/s/r brake pipe hose, is it easy and how is it done

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Use mechanic man, don't take risks.

Posted on Jul 03, 2008


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Diahatsu delta brake manual

to replace corroded fluid lines

two options
find a diahatsu truck wrecker or junk yard
scavenge all the hard lines you need off.. the same model truck

have the hard lines made up from new pipe and connections
brake shop can do all the brake pipes ..even fuel pipes

anything odd a mobile hydraulic hose repair service


Oct 18, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

3 Answers

Lost my brakes,leaking half way back on drivers side , are these brake lines visible, from under car

Yes, they are all grouped together underneath, an often with the fuel supply and return.

Apr 08, 2016 | Cars & Trucks

4 Answers

I have no brakes

When you say that the first master cylinder had no pedal, did that just suddenly happen?

A master cylinder has rubber seals inside - think of a bicycle pump - when the bicycle pump seal wears it becomes difficult to pressurise it. The same is true of a master cylinder.
A classic sign of a master cylinder with worn or perished seals is that it needs pumping a few times to pressurise but there is no leakage of brake fluid.

Prior to you changing the master cylinder had the level of the brake fluid dropped .. indicating a leak somewhere? Had you done any work on the brake pads/rotors?

Eliminate other causes of air getting into the braking system:

First thing to do is check the flexible brake hoses on each wheel. Get a friend to pump - and hold - the brake pedal while you inspect the flexible hoses. Check for leaks (obviously) but also look to see if each flexible hose 'bulges' anywhere along its length.

25932867-jil1jjwvkur0lkeilf3pe4be-4-0.jpeg Also check each flexible hose to see if it is perished or wet with fluid. 25932867-jil1jjwvkur0lkeilf3pe4be-4-1.jpeg A perished flexible hose can draw in air and cause no pedal/spongy pedal. The same is true with a flexible hose that bulges/balloons when under pressure.

It only takes a slight 'weeping' from a flexi hose or rigid pipe connection to allow air into the system. Check the rigid brake pipes too - especially where there is a connector/join.

Then remove the road wheels and look for the slightest fluid leak around caliper pistons.

The problem, I think, comes back to the original fault .. no pedal when your car had sat overnight. This is rather indicative of air getting into the system somewhere though not necessarily from the master cylinder.

Check for the slightest leak in the entire braking system. It only takes a small amount of air to get in and cause problems. The fact that you fitted a second master cylinder makes me think the problem could lie elsewhere.

Try bleeding the braking system. It's a 2 man job, but quite easy.
Here's a link that explains how to do it:
How to Bleed Your Brakes

Good luck!

Oct 30, 2015 | 1988 Plymouth Reliant

1 Answer

Drain brake fluid

check for fluid leaks at hoses , pipes and brake callipers and cylinder units. Pull the vacuum hose off the booster and check for brake fluid in the hose. (wet). Repair the fault-replace calliper leaks, replace wheel cylinders , replace brake lines and replace the brake booster.

Fill with brake fluid and bleed out starting at the longest line first and finishing at the shortest.

Sep 03, 2014 | 1992 Nissan Sentra 4 Door

1 Answer

How to replace a rear brake line on a 95 OldsMolbile Achiva?

the best tool to use is a pipe spanner as it covers most of the nut and prevents rounding off of the nut . The difficulty will come from the amount of rust around the nut and the condition of the pipe and hose.

Jul 22, 2014 | 1995 Oldsmobile Achieva

1 Answer

I think i need a master cylinder in my 1994 pontiac bnneville? How hard/easy it it to replace myself. I can purchase ne for around 50-60 dollars.

Yes it is not that hard to replace.

  1. Retainer and electrical connector from fluid level sensor.
  2. Drain brake fluid front mister cylinder reservoir.
  3. Reservoir hose from master cylinder. Plug hose to prevent fluid loss and contamination.
  4. Brake pipes from master cylinder. Plug open pipes to prevent fluid loss and contamination.
  5. Two attaching nuts.
  6. Master cylinder.
  7. Reservoir, if it is to he used on replacement master cylinder.
  1. Reservoir onto master cylinder, as needed.
  2. Master cylinder on to power booster.
  3. Attaching nuts. Tighten to 27 Nm (20 lb. ft.).
  4. Brake pipes. Tighten brake pipe fittings to 15 Nm (11 lb. ft.).
  5. Reservoir hose onto master cylinder.
  6. Fill master cylinder reservoir to full level mark using only Delco Supreme 11 Brake Fluid, or equivalent DOT 3 brake fluid.
  7. Electrical connector to fluid level sensor, secure with retainer.
  8. Bleed hydraulic system.
  9. Recheck fluid level in reservoir

Mar 09, 2011 | 1994 Pontiac Bonneville

2 Answers

No heat when on floor vents but good on defrost

Look for missing, or damaged vacuum lines, your system is designed to fail in the defrost mode.

Mar 04, 2011 | 1998 Dodge Ram 1500 4WD

2 Answers


brake master cylinder is mounted on brake servo under bonnet . remove the metal brake pipes going to it remove 2 nuts holding it to servo remove from car fit new one fill with brake fluid dont connect pipes yet have assistant pump pedal when fluid flows out of all ports on cyl get assistant to hold pedal down now fif pipes and secure try pedal if it feels firm job done if not you willneed to bleed the whole system

Feb 06, 2010 | 2001 Volvo S40

4 Answers

The rear brake line broke. the repair man says I need to replace all the lines and the fuel line because everything is rusted and there may be a problem when he bleeds the line causing a problem with the...

I doubt it is so bad. You see, there is a rear brake line >> there is a border, say the hoses which allow the rear suspension to move w/o breaking the lines. In my opinion all the brake pipes shouldn't cost more than 100-150EUR. In the official service, of course, you can multiply, at least here in Bulgaria. My own car, VW Jetta 84 survived the change before ~ 2 months, I was replacing the original pipes judging by the outlook. Of course, your car may differ, and you have to be careful with the brakes! Lawers: I am not responsible for anything, just trying to help!
Anyway, in my case:
- WD-40 spray
- six-sided quality wrench of appropriate size, with a small cutting, so you can pass the key over the pipe and on the nut. There are also keys with a bolt on the cutting, so you can tight the wrench on the nut.
- spare set of the tubes and hoses you will replace. I got brass ones (no more rust) for very adequate prize, under 15EUR, they were ready with the nut at both ends. Replaced even both rear brake cylinders, 5EUR for piece, but don't know your part's price.
As for bleeding, it was working, right? Either do not touch it, or detach both sides and bleed at will, while the pipes are open nothing will reach the cylinder.
After all pipes are in place, put new liquid, blow the air out of the system (it is easy, ask if in needed), and check the nuts of the new pipes. If there is a leakage, tighten gently some more until it stops.
You can fasten the new pipes with strong pigtails, putting a oneside-cut part of hose on the pipe, so that the pigtail won't press it on metal. This was my idea, but turned quite well.
As for the fuel pipe, it is even easier.
Hope I have helped, pls rate. :)

Nov 07, 2009 | 1997 Chevrolet Lumina

2 Answers

Need to replace brake line going to drivers side

You can take the line off and take to a parts store that sells metal brake pipes by the foot,there is different size pipes as well as flared end nuts.You will have to bend the pipe to fit then bleed the brake system.Iwould suggest to take it to a shop and have a pipe made up.

Aug 22, 2009 | 1996 Buick Skylark

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