Clutch I just bought a 2002 chevy tracker.When I test drove it the clutch was catching real high on the pedal, and occasionally grinding going into reverse.I had them check it before I bought it and was assured it was a hydraulic adjustable clutch.Another shop just told me it was probly bad because they are not adjustable.My paper work says "finance subject to clutch inspection" and now they only want to pay for the $200 part and not the $600 dollar labour.I wanted to know your thoughts on the clutch and if you have any advice for dealing with these **** .Thanks.

Did you replace pressure plate.If you did was it new or recon plate

its really a Chevy S10,
the only Japan part is the name sticker.
so what engines there?
hydraulic clutch is auto-dusting
after all air is bleed out of the system

diagnosing clutch can be bit tricky
but here are those tricks (blew many up racing)
the slave has a rod to a lever,
if bleed ok, can be hard, as the tubes go vertical
like a motorcycle or aircraft
bleeding is hard. (on all)
(bubbles float up as you force them down, dang a pain) (reverse brake bleed kit a godsend)

once done bled, i check the slave stroke distance.
its about 1 inch stoke,(2 men test)
no slack there, due to the hydraulic auto adjust.
see slack yell load, air in lines. or rod fit wrong.
so it moves about 1 full inch on the outer fork tip
PEDAL to the floor,
if yes and clutch drags, the clutch is bad.

one acid test of clutch
is REVERSE, it's a NON Syncrho mesh gear, a real gear. and fussy, (nice for testing, I learned long ago)
and will grind at the first bit, of clutch drag.
its like the coal miners canary bird, help me...

I love clutches, learned to drive in 15speed dump truck.
it had crash boxes... 5x3
double clutching all gears.all day long.

the book shows 2 ways
the FSM
1/2in play at pedal or 1/8 " inch at bell lever.
most of these cars the cable is long gone bad inside.
and jams, and in the end, you brake the pedal, arm, or spine or worse.
its all there, play, pedal height,
and links to real FSM pages.

http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/clutch-on-kick.html

at the risk of saying FSM, the book is free.
and the steps are clear as day, and is linked here.
if you want me to paste the words from a free book then ok, I guess we can do that."spoon fed sure"
possibles, switch bad, or not adjusted per book.
sorry had to say book. very sorry.
i know folks here hate books...
in the military we say, read the book yet?,
"RTMF?"
then hand it to the guy and point to brake chapter.
Please read it and ask questions we say.

so here it is,
the switch ,also has a jam nut and is calibrated, adjusted when installed. the FSM is free, and online and shows how to adjust it. here, ill post the link and page so you can see all steps.
it is common on this car for the nut to come loose and switch stick closed.
chapter 5 page 16 covers this 100%
no need to guess. at all.
URL:
http://www.acksfaq.com/96-FSM-v1-5-pdf.htm

to test the switch for bad.
key on.
remove switch. still wired per figure 13, id 509
if the switch center pin extends fully
and the lamps still glow the switch is for sure bad. (stuck closed or shorted it is...)

and if the pedal is not damaged or spring
this adjustment works, if not, not.
as they say first things, first.
it's just a pedal and 2 springs.
1 on pedal spring
and one inside the switch, must work.
all first things, that must work.

here is the switch with a real photo.
frame 14(clear photos or group restores them, many)

http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/mikes-clutch91/shrunk/html/image_14.html

the clutch switch left and brake right.above,
another test is to unplug the switch
if the lamps go out, BINGO, switch bad or not adjusted right.

Recap:
pedal not broken, sticking or jammed in any way or bent.
spring on pedal not broken?
pedal returns 100% to up position?
pedal pushes the switch plunger down.?
switch unplugged, lamp goes out.
it is just a simple switch, no magic electronics.
the switch must be calibrated per the page above.
besides the switch this is pure mechanics.
a lever. (pedaL) springs and a simple switch.

It may be where the clutch pedal mounts on the bar at the top. Often plastic bushings are used to mount the pedal, and they can get worn or broken. You night feel a little catch when pushing the pedal down by hand.

very old post , the cables all do that, at 200k, miles.

old post.
they have all fixes for that here,
http://www.fixkick.com/tranny/clutch/clutch-on-kick.html

It is possible but check for fluid levels first. If you are loosing resistance on the pedal, it is possible that the clutch master or the slave may have gone bad.

It sounds like your clutch is slipping. It's an early warning sign that clutch is going to need to replaced soon.

put in neutral !!!

the rubber or the whole pedal
and why
state your problem.
seen em all.