Pump Coil burnt out. All other circuits and boards appear visualy to be OK. Burnout happened at the begining of a normal cold wash cycle, and circuits had shut down, pump spindle was free with no blockage. all circuits dead when power reapplied. Will this come back to life if I replace the pump? If not how do I make it go again. I do have experience with electronics but many years ago

Firing Order is 1 3 7 2 6 5 4 8

JF: Integrated Ignition Coil On Plug Coil 1 Through 10 Failure

2000 PCED On Board Diagnostics II


SECTION 5: Pinpoint Tests




Procedure revision date: 01/31/2001










JF: Integrated Ignition Coil On Plug Coil 1 Through 10 Failure


? JF: Introduction




JF1 DETERMINE WHICH COIL IS NOT FIRING

Note: Electronic ignition engine timing is entirely controlled by the PCM. Electronic ignition timing is NOT adjustable. Do not attempt to check base timing. You will receive false readings.


• Determine which coil is not firing using information from Pinpoint Test JB or DTC and the table at the beginning of this pinpoint test.



• Record cylinder, coil and PCM pin number from the table.

Have the cylinder number, coil driver and PCM pin number been recorded?







Yes


No






GO to JF2.


To obtain required information, GO to JF1 and REPEAT.




JF2 DTC P0351, P0356, P0357: CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR FAILURE
Are any of the above listed DTCs present?







Yes


No






GO to JF3.


GO to JF4.




JF3 CHECK RESISTANCE OF CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR

• Measure resistance of crankshaft position sensor.

Is resistance between 290 and 390 ohms (for LS8 between 900 and 1300 ohms)?







Yes


No






GO to JF4.


REPLACE crankshaft position sensor. COMPLETE Misfire Monitor Repair Verification Drive Cycle (REFER to Section 2, Drive Cycles).




JF4 CHECK FUNCTIONALITY OF SUSPECT COIL DRIVER (CD) CIRCUIT

• Disconnect suspect coil (determined from the table).



• Connect incandescent test lamp between IGN START/RUN and suspect CD circuit (determined from the table) at the coil on plug harness connector.



• Disable fuel pump by disconnecting inertia fuel shutoff switch.



• Observe incandescent test lamp while cranking engine.

Is the test lamp blinking consistently?







Yes


No






KEY OFF. GO to JF5.


KEY OFF. GO to JF6.




JF5 CHECK FUNCTIONALITY OF SUSPECT COIL

• Remove suspect coil (determined from the table) from spark plug.



• Connect an air gap spark tester 303-D037 (D81P-6666-A) or equivalent to a suspect coil.



• Reconnect suspect coil harness connector.



• Observe spark tester while cranking engine.

Is the spark present?







Yes


No






KEY OFF. INSPECT spark plug, REPLACE if necessary. GO to Z1.


KEY OFF. REPLACE coil. INSPECT spark plug, REPLACE if necessary. COMPLETE Misfire Monitor Repair Verification Drive Cycle (REFER to Section 2, Drive Cycles).




JF6 CHECK IGN START/RUN VOLTAGE TO SUSPECT COIL

• Key on, engine off.



• Measure voltage between IGN START/RUN circuit at the coil on plug harness connector and ground.

Is voltage greater than 10.0 volts?







Yes


No






KEY OFF. GO toJF7.


KEY OFF. LS6 and LS8: GO to B5.

All others: IGN START/RUN circuit fault. CHECK condition of related fuses/fuse links. If OK, REPAIR open circuit. If fuse/fuse link is damaged, CHECK IGN START/RUN circuit for short to ground. REPAIR as necessary. COMPLETE Misfire Monitor Repair Verification Drive Cycle (REFER to Section 2, Drive Cycles).




JF7 CHECK SUSPECT CD CIRCUIT FOR OPEN IN HARNESS

• Disconnect PCM.



• Measure resistance of suspect CD circuit between PCM harness connector pin (determined from the table) and coil on plug harness connector.

Is resistance less than 5 ohms?







Yes


No






GO to JF8.


REPAIR open circuit. COMPLETE Misfire Monitor Repair Verification Drive Cycle (REFER to Section 2, Drive Cycles).




JF8 CHECK SUSPECT CD CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO VPWR IN HARNESS

• Key on, engine off.



• Measure voltage between suspect CD circuit at the PCM harness connector (determined from the table) and ground.

Is voltage less than 1.0 volt?







Yes


No






KEY OFF. GO to JF9.


KEY OFF. REPAIR short circuit. COMPLETE Misfire Monitor Repair Verification Drive Cycle (REFER to Section 2, Drive Cycles).




JF9 CHECK SUSPECT CD CIRCUIT FOR SHORT TO GROUND IN HARNESS

• Disconnect scan tool.



• Measure resistance between suspect CD circuit at the PCM harness connector (determined from the table) and ground.

Is resistance greater than 10,000 ohms?







Yes


No






GO toJF10.


REPAIR short circuit. If symptom or DTC is still present, GO to JF11 to check for damaged coil, otherwise COMPLETE Misfire Monitor Repair Verification Drive Cycle (REFER to Section 2, Drive Cycles).




JF10 PERFORM INTERMITTENT TEST ON SUSPECT CD CIRCUIT HARNESS

• Connect digital multimeter between suspect CD circuit at the PCM harness connector (determined from the table) and CD circuit at coil on plug harness connector.



• Wiggle and bend CD harness from PCM harness connector to coil on plug harness connector.

Did resistance fluctuate during wiggle test?







Yes


No






REPAIR intermittent fault in harness. COMPLETE Misfire Monitor Repair Verification Drive Cycle (REFER to Section 2, Drive Cycles).


REPLACE PCM. (REFER to Section 2, Flash Electrically Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory (EEPROM)). If symptom or DTC is still present, GO to JF11 to check for damaged coil, otherwise COMPLETE Misfire Monitor Repair Verification Drive Cycle (REFER to Section 2, Drive Cycles).




JF11 CHECK SUSPECT COIL FOR DAMAGE

• Remove suspect coil (determined from the table) from spark plug.



• Connect an air gap spark tester 303-D037 (D81P-6666-A) or equivalent to a suspect coil.



• Disable fuel pump by disconnecting inertia fuel shutoff switch.



• Observe spark tester while cranking engine.

Is the spark present?







Yes


No






KEY OFF. INSPECT spark plug, REPLACE if necessary. GO to Z1.


KEY OFF. REPLACE coil. INSPECT spark plug, REPLACE if necessary. COMPLETE Misfire Monitor Repair Verification Drive Cycle (REFER to Section 2, Drive Cycles).

If your 1995 Chevrolet Blazer shows code P19DA, it means that there is a signal problem between the fuel pump and the PCM. This may have happened because you have a burned fuel pump motor, or the float meter of the fuel pump has a burnt wire.
Check the fuel pump relay, if malfunctioning, inspect the ground circuit to and see if the resistance is accurate. If it appears to be damaged, remove the fuel tank, taking out the pump, and replacing it with one that works.

Check your fuses if all OK, then check for spark. If you have good spark find the main relay, often under dash. Remove the cover and check out the relay circuit board and look for annular cracking around any of the soldered joints. If any of the joints are 'dry' simply resolder and that should fix the problem for good. The main relay feeds electricity to the both the ignition circuit and the fuel pump so it is good just to be sure that this element is working OK especially on older Hondas that have a bit of reputation of a weakness in this area

This is normally a problem with the ballast resistor or associated wiring.
On some vehicles, in order to give a stronger spark during starting, which helps the engine to start, the ignition coil is designed to run normally on about 9 volts. As a car's electrical system runs on 12 volts, a ballast resistor is included in the coil's electrical connection to "drop" the 3 volt differnece. When the key is turned to the start position, the full 12 volts is applied to the coil for as long as the engine takes to start (giving a much stronger spark), and when the key is released back to the normal "on" position, the ballast resistor is automatically switched in to the coil circuit - if the coil was over-run on 12 volts all the time it would soon burn out.

Depending on your skills, and whether you have access to a tech manual or not, this isnt too difficult to fix. Otherwise a small independant garage shouldnt charge too much to fix this sort of probelm.

Check the coolant system, make sure the compressure clutch is engaged all the time. Check the a/c cycle switch located on the receiver and dryer also.

Not terribly familliar with honda cars but most systems use either a cold start injector or just richen up mixture through the normal fuel system. This is controlled by a temperature sensor, either separate from or part of dash gauge sensor. I'd begin looking for that. If its always in "cold start" if will give you symptoms like yours. If not fuel injected, check choke operation. This may not be a "cure" but it's a good place to begin looking!

Well it's possible that when the mechanic sprayed your engine he may have also used cold water or lukewarm water to rinse it. Or the silicone itself was cold coming from the can. If the coil/coil packs were hot at the time, or the ignition module was, it is likely that the cold liquid(s) spraying on the hot electronics may have cracked either the coil magnet or the ignition module causing them to fail. Repeated misfiring from damaged coils or ignition modules can cause failure at the rotor and distributor cap by constant crossfiring inside. You'll want to remove the distributor cap and look inside for evidence of burnt, broken, or cracked electrodes. If they appear blackened or melted/burnt you will definitely need to replace the cap and rotor. Before replacing them however, you may want to take a close look at your coil or coil packs and the ignition module. One way to check the coil to see if it is cracked is this: Place the vehicle in a darkened area or wait til it is dark out if you can't move it. Since the vehicle isn't running everything should be cold so this test won't damage anything any further. Fill a spray bottle with warm water. Spray a mist of water on the coil. Have an assistant crank the engine and watch in the dark the area of the coil. If you see a lot of arcing or a halo like effect of electricity you will know the coil magnet is likely damaged. If not, it is probably ok but you'll want to have the ignition control module tested. You can probably have this done at a reputable parts dealer or garage who have the correct electronic test devices. If both the coil and the ignition control module check out ok, go ahead and replace your cap and rotor then try starting her up. Anything that tests bad obviously must be replaced first to get it running and to prevent further damage to the ignition system. If you are getting no spark it is most likely the coil, second most likely the ignition control module. Good luck and let me know how it goes.

take the bulb back out have someone sit in car apply brake get your self a circuit tester and check to see if this circuit is carrying efficient 12 volt current! some times in cold weather these bulbs get hot with long period of breaking and when released condensate and rust begins and you get what you have perhaps bad socket! this would be a ideal location to begin and probably end,

ok.. for starters you need to check why you are loosing revs.. it could be your powersteering switch on your steering rack not working.. just bridge switch to test.. revs should not drop on steering.. then check fuel pump relay.. and efi relay.. theese cars are gettin on.. so could be faulty with long use..heat related.. insert a visual inline fuel filter and when it stalls check fuel flow... aswell as put a little fuel in the vacum hose line and see if it starts to confirm its a fuel issue... if the visualis fuel flow than its fuel pump related.. wires can come loose of pump .. as they travell under rear seat.. and into tank.. ... good luck

i have seem people junk this cars all because they have a coming problem with the crank sensor replace the crankshaft sensor and see what happen it is very coming problem on this cars