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From your description it would seem there either is a battery problem, a problem with the battery leads/connections, a problem with the engine or the starter motor is ready for an overhaul.
Clever battery chargers aren't always to be relied on and it is best to carry out other tests - if the cells are accessible the old fashioned hydrometer gives an instant reading of the state of charge, relative cell condition and the electrolyte condition. A heavy discharge tester checks the terminal voltage can be maintained under load for 10-15 seconds. I use both methods. You should at least have a voltmeter connected while trying to start - if nothing is getting smoking hot but the voltage has dropped lower than about 3/4 of the off-load voltage, one (or both) of the batteries is less than good; again if there is a cell that isn't good the electrolyte would typically gas violently when it is under load.
Where a pair of batteries are fitted either in parallel or series it is best to replace them in pairs as the older battery will have a higher resistance to being charged so after a while one battery will be charged more than the other meaning more time with the battery charger.
Checking the voltage is about the same at the starter when trying to start as it is at the battery gives an idea of the condition of the leads and connections - a bad connection will get quite hot under load, though expect a general warming of most of the system.
If everything tests ok up to now, it will be time to remove the starter and take a look inside...
A common problem that's surfaced a great deal lately is a car/truck that
starts fine when the engine is cold but won't when the engine is warm.
Most of the time, the car will require a jump start with a warm engine
to get it to start. Most mistakenly assume a bad battery and change it
out, only to have the same problem. What happens is most starters don't
just "quit" when they are defective. A bad starter will usually start
your vehicle when it's absolutely cold. Once warm, the starter will
behave as follows:<br />
<ul>
<li>No power</li>
<li>Click then nothing</li>
<li>All other electrical is fine (headlights, stereo, alarm etc)</li></ul>
If your car or truck won't start when the engine is warm, but starts
fine when it's cold, you most likely have a bad starter. Although
replacing the battery is less expensive, it rarely (if ever) will
resolve this issue. Consider the age of the car / starter when these
symptoms occur. If you have an older vehicle (older than 5 years) then
replacing the starter is a good place to start prior to buying other
electrical components (battery, alternator). <br />
<br />
Always bring the vehicle to a shop that offers a free electrical
diagnostic test to confirm the electrical system is sound to rule out an
electrical problem first. If the electrical system is sound, I'd go
ahead and replace the starter. <br />Although this tip will show under the Lincoln category, it applies to all makes and models.<br />
happened to me with the kia sportage. slow to start when hot.
check and clean your battery connections/terminals. some dirt/corrosion at the battery terminals dries up when hot, providing some resistance to the wire connections and slows down the turn over of your starter. clean this up by removing terminals, and cleaning it with sandpaper and water.
check/restart engine particularly when hot. if this does not work, have your starter bushings checked. these bushings when hot has a lot of friction slowing the starter turn over. sometimes the bushings are worn out.
could be the electrical contact switch on the back of the steering lock ,try a hot wire direct to the small terminal on the starter motor solonoid on top of the starter
if it cranks real slow when hot and ok when cold then the battery is ok
starter may be bad you need an ameter to verifie it though if it draws to many amps then its bad.but i think it a safe bet starter is bad
Hi! Looking at your brief description can I guess that when warm the starter turns slowly? as if a flat battery? If this is so then the starter windings and armature are possibly cooked?? Have you recently tried cranking the engine too much? or with a poorly charged battery? When cranking the starter gets very warm and if not left to cool after 5 seconds of cranking can cook the wiring/armature internals of starter. When your engine is cold the Windings/armature are too so will turn easier, but when warm all internals are expanded so more drain and heat! then causing the starter to revolve slowly taking a lot of power from engine and ignition circuitry. This can also be caused from trying to start a vehicle with low battery, Volts go down Amps go up cooking/frying the winding/armature. I am suggesting this as all I have to go on from the description STARTS COLD BUT ONCE IT IS WARM???? I hope this helps, If it does please remember to press FixYa button as I have taken a lot of time to post the response. Good Luck! Paul 'W' Onyer~EDSon(:0)~[><U.K.
If the alternator was bad the battery would run down and be dead in a very sort time, this may be a combination of a battery on it's way out and or a starter issue, when starters start to act up they do so more hot than cold, have the battery and charging system tested by any of the chain auto parts stores like Kragen, it is free, if that checks ok replace the starter, also make sure the cables are clean and tight, they also can be an issue.
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