For couple weeks the airflow was on and off. Now , when I needed it the most, in summer time in CA - it stopped working. No sound of fan or any air movement. Last time the dealer refilled air conditioning in 2005 . How to troubleshot the problem and can I refill air conditioning liquid on my own? any manuals how to? thank you, Alex Deiden firstname.lastname@example.org
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Re: AirFlow stopped working on E39 1998
check your fan belt, if your fan belt is in the normal position and no problem.
check your compressor and also check the clutch, it is locate right in front of the compressor, when you turn on your air conidition, the clutch should be turn with the fan belt. If it is not, that means your compressor had problem.
check the freon small flow window see if the lique bubbling too much, if it is means you need fill up R-12 freon.
you probably can not do it yourself, in case if you need freon and your compressor is completely empety, you need a special tool to **** the air out first and than fill up freon.
if your air condition is leaking,and you have to fill up a can of special check leaking freon with red colour first, until you find the leaking parts, fix it then you can fill up freon
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The motor has a diode pack of resistors built into it so either this is defective or the brushes in the motor are sticking ,the motor is under the passenger side dash on models with AC ,pull the cover down and with the engine running and the blower turned on thump it with your fist ,it often works .
Need to chek generator, air filter and airflow microcircuit. If the airflow is not sufficient engine dyies with out strugle, just gets slower and stop's. If it's electric problem, it's stops immediately or stops with blows and twitching.
2 airflow sensor out of operating range 3 coolant temp sensor out of operating range 4 oxy sensor indicates full rich 5 throttle potentiometer/airflow sensor... (low throttle pot signal with high airflow sensor signal) 6 throttle pot/airflow sensor...... (high throttle pot signal with low airflow sensor signal) 7 throttle pot...idle fuel adjustment failure(idle speed??) 8 intake air temp sensor...open or shorted circuit to sensor 11 Throttle pot at idle: Throttle pot idle trim out of normal range 12 Airflow meter: MAF signal out of range 14 Coolant thermistor: Resistance out of range or static during engine warm up 16 Air thermistor: Resistance out of range 17 Throttle pot: Out of range 18 Throttle pot/Airflow: Low throttle pot signal at high airflow 19 Throttle pot/Airflow: High throttle pot signal at low airflow 22 Fuel pump drive: ECU output to fuel pump relay 23 Fuel supply: Engine running too rich 24 Ignition Drive: ECU output to ignition Amp 26 Air leak: Engine running too lean 29 ECU self check 33 Injector Drive: ECU output to injectors 34 Injector: Looks for Injector dribble 37 EGR Drive: ECU output to EGR switching valve 39 EGR check sensor: EGR not working (normally pipe blocked) 44 Lambda (O2) sensor: Poor mixture control rich or weak (or misfire) 46 Idle speed Control valve: ECU output to Coil AB 47 Idle speed Control valve: ECU output to Coil CD 48 Idle Speed Control Valve: Stepper motor grossly out of position 66 Air pump: ECU output to air pump relay 68 Road speed sensor: Seen speed < 5km/h at high engine airflow 69 Drive/Neutral switch: Seen cranking in "D" or high airflow in "N" 89 Purge Valve drive: ECU output to purge valve this is all I could find
This sounds like a normal condition.What happens is the cold start emission reduction component monitor(software program in the computer) is running.
Cold Start Emission Reduction Component Monitor
The Cold Start Emission Reduction Component Monitor was introduced for the 2006 MY on vehicles that meet the
LEV-II emission standards. The monitor works by validating the operation of the components of the system
required to achieve the cold start emission reduction strategy, namely retarded spark timing and elevated idle
When the CSER strategy is enabled, the idle air control system will request a higher idle rpm, elevating engine
airflow. While this CSER elevated airflow is requested, the low airflow test compares the measured idle airflow from
the MAF sensor to the commanded idle airflow from the idle air control strategy.
yes their is a way to replace the mass air flow. Get a can of brake clean or throttle cleaner, throttle cleaner is going to work best. remove the until and spray it down with throttle clean, let it dry for about 15 min. and reinstall it.
Now a little warning for you, IF their is no visual damage to the mass air flow then you can do this successfully. Now the reason why I always replace them instead of spraying them down is because is MOST cases the mass air flow will start acting up again. Sometimes it takes a weeks, sometimes months, sometimes years its hard to say.
But the worst you have to loose, is it doenst work an your out 5 bucks for the can of fluid.