Question about 2000 Mazda Protege

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Replace an oil pan and casket

How do i replace an oil pan and casket on a 2000 mazda protege?
it has the 1.8 engine

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  • Protechmech Jul 02, 2008

    Thanks chris07551.



    It's my daughter's car and I just didn't know if I had to deal with some crossmember or some exhaust pipe being in the way.



    I won't be able to place it on four car jack stands, however, if it's as easy as you've explained, I think I can get away with just two car jack stands. I'm willing to try that atleast.

  • babuji11 Nov 26, 2008

    I need to change the oil pan gasket in my 2000 Mazda Protege also but this is DX model with 1.6 Litre SOHC engine, and automatic FWD. Although this oil pan extends into the left drive axle. Could someone explain me how I would change this pan gasket. And I beleive the exhaust manifold has to opened up as well as it is sitting right under the oil pan.
    Thanks.

  • Anonymous Mar 21, 2014

    replace oil pan 2000 astro van

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Thanks, the problem has been answered.

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Posted on Jul 02, 2008

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Ok its a front wheel drive so it will have to be put on a hoist or on 4 car jack stands to get it level
then underneith the engine there is the pan there will be a bolt if there is no bolt there will be at least 12 nuts undo all them and put on the ground slowly untill all the oil is out then drain
then remove old gasket with a scraper untill none is visable
no gasket glue is required
put all back to geather tightin bolts but not to the max fill with oil then run car till its hot then let it cool and retightin bolts again

Posted on Jul 02, 2008

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I need to know how to change a oil pan gasket in a 2000 mazda protege


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Need to replace oil pan


If yo ucan see all the bolts on the bottom of the pan, it will be as easy as changing your oil. Make sure you get a torque wrench for the install though so you don't strip the bolts out, and just follow the directions with the gasket.

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Fig. 1: Exploded view of the oil pan and related components for the 1990-94 1.6L engine-2.2L engine is similar

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Fig. 2: Exploded view of the oil pan and related components for the 1.8L engine


Make sure all old sealer is removed from the bolts prior to installation. Installing a bolt coated with old sealer could result in cracking of the bolt holes.
  1. On 1990-94 323 1.6L (B6E) and 1994 Protege 1.8L (BPD) engines, install the integrated stiffener to the engine block and transaxle. Tighten the bolts to 38 ft. lbs. (52 Nm).
  2. 1990-94 Protege 1.8L (BPE) and 1994 MX3 1.8L (BPD) engines, install the transverse member. Tighten the bolts to 93 ft. lbs. (1 Nm).
  3. Install the front exhaust pipe bracket, if equipped. Install the front exhaust pipe, using new gaskets. Tighten the exhaust manifold flange nuts to 34 ft. lbs. (46 Nm).
  4. Install the oil pan drain plug using a new gasket. Tighten the drain plug to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm).
  5. Install the engine undercover and lower the vehicle.
  6. Fill the engine with the proper type and quantity of oil.
  7. Connect the negative battery cable. Start the engine and bring to normal operating temperature. Check for leaks.

Hope helped with this (remember rated this help). Good luck.

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The same thing happend to my wife's car. DId you check the oil pan? They are know to rust out and crack, all the oil leaks out. My wife's car did the same thing and when I checked under the engine the oil pan was totally cracked and all the oil leaked in my driveway!

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I have a 2000 mazda Protege with 5 speed stick shift 1.6 L. I need to change the oil pan gasket. How do I do that. Thank you


Easy enough, either you need to change to engine oil pan, or the transmission oil pan. Either way it's almost the same thing. First, make sure you have enough clearance under the car to get a recipient of any kind under there to collecte the oil, so jack the car, drive it atop a mechanic's pit, drive it up some ramps, anything is good as long as the car is nice and level, or else it will not empty out fully and you'll have a mess on your hands. Then, you need to drain the oil. Engine oil pan: just unscrew the drain plug out of the pan itself to let it empty out (tip of the wiseman: get the biggest funnel you can find or the widest bucket possible). Transmission oil pan: The hardest is to find the drain plug cause it's never at the same place on any model, so either ask your dealer where it is, or try to find a photo or a diagram. If all else fails, don't drain and just to next step but be aware the oil will empty out every which way all around the pan, so find a recipient larger that the pan itself to get it all. Locate every bolt on the perimiter of the pan, find out what size the bolt heads are by trial and error if necessary and simply unscrew all of them. If the pan is stuck by age, use a large flat head screwdriver to pryit loose. Clean both the pan and the engine block to remove all the gasket residue and gunk. Best way to do so is to use fine grain sanding paper, DO NOT USE ANY SOLVANTS! if you do, you might put contaminents in the engine that will ruin your new oil and possibly cause an engine burnout. Now just put on a new gasket if you have one, if not use either blue or red silicone (high-temp) and apply on the pan and not the engine block. Don't put too much though so you don't get silicone inside the engine, a 1/4" wide stipe is usually more than enough on most models. Put the pan back on and put all the bolts back in. Tighten them enough so that they dont come loose but not too much either as to not strip the bolt holes, new aluminum blocks are pretty soft and strip easy. Best is to get the tightening torques specs from the dealer or a Chilton or Haynes manual if you can. Voila your done! Hope this helps!

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