1990 a/c clutch removal

Clutch squeal is commonly caused by the Throw Out bearing or the clutch release mechanism. When the clutch was replaced was the throwout bearing changed as well?
Some (but not all) clutch release setups need to be adjusted back to allow for the new thickness of the clutch plate. This will either be on a 'self adjuster' on the pedal, a slack adjuster on a cable operated clutch or possibly a need to 'bleed' a hydraulic system.
If adjusting doesn't solve the problem it is possibly an issue with an actual clutch part.

With all the work you had done, I believe that the problem you are having is connected with a plug that was not reconnected, or possibly a bad connection. If the transmission was removed for a new clutch this would be the first thing I would look for. GOOD LUCK FRIEND.

Fig. Fig. 1: Clutch release bearing - 1990 Colt hatchback and sedan w/ 1.6L engine, 1990 Colt Wagon w/1.8L engine, and 1990-93 Vista

Fig. Fig. 2: Clutch driven and drive discs - 1990-93 all models

Fig. Fig. 3: Clutch release bearing - 1990 Colt Wagon w/1.5L engine, 1991-92 Colt hatchback and sedan w/4-speed and 1993 Colt hatchback and sedan w/1.8L engine

1. Remove the transmission or transaxle as outlined.
2. Insert a pilot shaft or an old input shaft into the center of the clutch disc, pressure plate, and the pilot bearing in the crankshaft.
3. With the pilot tool supporting the clutch disc, loosen the pressure plate bolts gradually and in a crisscross pattern.
4. Remove the pressure plate and clutch disc.
5. Clean the transmission and clutch housing. Clean the flywheel surface with a non-oil based solvent. Wash your hands before installing or handling the clutch assembly parts. Hold the clutch disc by the center hub only.

Before assembly, slide the clutch disc up and down on the transmission input shaft to check for any binding. Remove any rough spots with crocus cloth and then lightly coat the shaft with Lubriplate.

1. To remove the throwout bearing assembly: Remove the return clip and take out the throwout bearing carrier and the bearing.
2. To replace the throwout arm use a / 16 in. punch, knock out the throwout shaft spring pin and remove the shaft, springs, and the center lever.
3. Do not immerse the throwout bearing in solvent; it is permanently lubricated. Blow and wipe it clean. Check the bearing for wear, deterioration, or burning. Replace the bearing if there is any question about its condition.
4. Check the shafts, lever, and springs for wear and defects. Replace them if necessary.
5. If you hadn't planned on replacing the clutch disc, examine it for the following before reusing it. Loose rivets. Burned facing. Oil or grease on the facing. Less than 0.3mm left between the rivet head and the top of the facing.
6. Check the pressure plate and replace it if any of the following conditions exist: Scored or excessively worn. Bent or distorted diaphragm spring. Loose rivets.
7. Insert the control lever into the clutch housing. Install the two return springs and the throwout shaft.
8. Lock the shift lever to the shaft with the spring pin.
9. Fill the shaft oil seal with multipurpose grease.
10. Install the throwout bearing carrier and the bearing. Install the return clip.
11. Grease the carrier groove and inner surface.
12. Lightly grease the clutch disc splines.

The clutch is installed with the larger boss facing the transmission.

1. Support the clutch disc and pressure plate with the pilot tool.
2. Turn the pressure plate so that its balance mark aligns with the notch in the flywheel.
3. Install the pressure plate-to-flywheel bolts head-tight. Using a torque wrench and, working in a crisscross pattern, tighten the bolts to 11-15 ft. lbs.
4. Install the transmission or transaxle as outlined.
5. Adjust the clutch as described in the following information.

Sometimes the A/C clutch pulley goes bad. It is a combination of a clutch and an Idler pulley. This means the part is always turning the bearing regardless of whether the A/C is on or off.

But you can try to change out the tensioner and idler to see if they help. Parts vary widely in price.

As for A/C pulley, some are removable without taking off the compressor. They have left-hand thread and a small clip. Require grinding out bearing assembly and punch pinning new part to hub. Often can be done in an hour by the ambitious.

Would think that roughness in bearing as you checked could be judged as good or bad.

For squeaking problem,the help links are provided below.Click the link below to go through the procedure :----squeaking under hood? http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2012/01/clutch-squeaking-under-hood.html
----------Squeak and grinding sound is heard when brakes are applied? http://technoanswers.blogspot.in/2012/02/squeak-and-grinding-sound-is-heard-when.html
-------------Clutch squeaking? http://repairhelpcenter.blogspot.com/2012/01/clutch-squeaking-under-hood.html
---------Squealing at start up on car? http://technoanswers.blogspot.com/2012/01/squealing-at-start-up-on-car.html
-----------This will help.Thanks.

As soon as the car hits the mark of 60Kmiles, the owner has to make the decision. To keep it or get rid of it. If you decide to keep it, than prepare for more expensive tune Ups, or Preventive and Scheduled Maintenance Services. The squeaking noise means it is the time to replace the serpentine belt. It cost $30 and can be done by owner in 5 minutes, but from now you have to save some money, because between 60K and 90K the timing belt has to be replaced too with a new one. It is not the belt only, there is a kit with belt tensioners that cost $290 parts only.
For more information please read my tip:
When should i change the timing belt on my car?
http://www.fixya.com/cars/r6481199-when_change_timing_belt_car
After the timing belt most of the car dealers recomment to flush and change all fluids with the new one. Transmission oil and filter, coolant, brake fluid and more ....

Remove the belt and turn the water pump, A/C clutch and power steering by hand in the direction they normally rotate. You may be able to feel a bad bearing. Does the sound change when you turn on the A/C or Defrost? That would point to the A/C clutch.

I assume you have already tried a new belt, and have cleaned all the pulleys to make sure there isn't something on them causing the belt to slip (then squeak when it catches again).

well the belt could be loose or the compressor may be seized.....or the belt may be old and squealing.

Loosen the belts [ you do not need to remove] so they are free of tension to all pulleys.Start engine , if noise goes away either belts were too loose [ common on lx 450] or you have a worn & noisey pulley /bearing.have seen idler pulley below alternator have dry / noisey bearing.Otherwise if idler is ok it has to be another belt driven assessory , ac clutch,water pump & or fan clutch.Good Luck.