The ac in my car is acting real funny. i used redteck and followed the instructions to a T. used the sealer and refill i checked to see if there was presure in the system and there was. it worked great for a few days then poof no more cold air. i went back to see if there was pressure and there still was so i gave it a month or 2 to sit and still theres pressure in the system. seems to me that this thing blows cool when fresh refill in put in but it only lasts a few days. can someone shed some light on this problem and give me some sort of ideas on what to do or check. i dont think its a leak or there wouldent be any pressure left but i could be wrong.
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Re: 1995 sebring lxi AC problem
Small leak you have pressure but no enought the pressure sensor in the ac line see the low pressure cut the power to the system you got to put dye in the system and gaz when it stop working you have to used a ultra violet light that the only accurate way to see the leak you say as soon you put gaz it work for few days if you would have and electric problem it would not work you definetly have a leak you have to find were its leaking hope it fixya our problem pierre
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Can be many things. If you are lucky, just get a refill kit for Freon and follow the instructions. If a system is low, there is a chance it can safely be restored with a can of sealer and fresh Freon. But the situation is different for a completely discharged unit. In those cases some interior components may be dried out and unusable.
Freon has skyrocked and where we use to recommend trial and error, the money could be spent for a trained mechanic to do it right.
Are you sure that when you charged the system that it was actually taking the refrigerant into the system. Some of the kits come with a gauge attached to them so you can see right away if it is either undercharged or overcharged. I would suggest purchasing one of these cans with the gauge attached (I found that my local Biglots store is the cheapest) and hook it up then you can see right away if it's over or undercharged. If everything seems ok check your fuses and relays.Good luck
ok this sounds easy when you ran the vehicle the computer controled the idiling motor now that you replace the idiling motor the computer hasnt been reset to except the new parameters
once you reset computer this should bring the idle back down to its specified idle
you can also adjust back of gas pedel the idle cable and on the throttle body by the idling screw
there are four 18mm bolts on the opposite side of dust plate.once u remove thoe bolts,you'll have to either use a slide hammer, or the old fashion way a big hammer and smack it side to side.the whole hub and wheel bearing assembly will come out.The dust sheild is in between the hub and axel once it comes apart u will understand.