The ground is actually next to the feul pump and the easiest way to it is to take the bed off... Sounds hard but really it only 8 bolts. The bed is not very heavy but it obviously will take two people. Unless its bothering you i'd just leave it be for now usually the feul pump will go out between 110,000-130,000miles
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Instruments are generally supplied with power from a common source and if the other dashboard lights and gauges work it is a fair assumption for the time being, loss of power to the circuit isn't the problem.
Most fuel gauge problems are caused by either the fuel tank ground being lost or the rheostat inside the tank sender failing.
In the traditional fuel gauge circuit when a bimetal, moving coil or moving iron gauge is used, the circuit can be tested simply by shorting the wire to the gauge unit to a good ground when the gauge would read full, proving the gauge and wiring is ok.
It is best to be aware other types of gauge might be used and modern digital vehicles might have to be treated differently - instead of being grounded a sensor substitute might be needed or simply test the tank unit with an ohm meter.
That won't affect the fuel gauge. Different circuits, entirely. Any issue with the fuel gauge is between the gauge on the dash, a little wiring to the gas tank, and the sender unit inside the tank. In most cases, the problem turns out to be the sending unit inside the tank.
To check the gauge itself for working, you can ground the fuel gauge wire at the gas tank connector, and watch for movement on the gauge, with the key in ON. You take the connector off at the gas tank, find the wire for the fuel level sender (or gauge), and touch it to a good ground- a metal piece on the car frame. If gauge is good, the needle will move either to full or to empty, but you can see the needle move to a new point, when you (temporarily, only temporarily) ground the fuel gauge wire. The key in the switch must be in on. If this causes the needle to move, then the dash gauge is good, and the problem is the sender unit in the tank. This unit has a variable resistor, not too expensive. The fun is getting to it.
I have fixed speedometer and RPM gauges before. Never had the temp gauge do this. You have to remove the instrument panel and rotate it clock wise. Watch the needle and see if it moves. If it does, take it back to the original position. I check them with a scanner. But they seem to work right. The just have glitches sometimes that drives the needle to the other side.
Either the gauge itself, or the wire from gauge to tank, or the sending unit in the tank. Most of the time it is a problem with the sending unit.
They work like this: in the instrument cluster, a small voltage regulator sends low voltage through the gauge, into the wire to tank, and to the sending unit. The unit has a variable resistor that varies according to the fuel level, measured by the float arm attached to the unit. What it (the gauge) actually measures is resistance to ground-the current goes to a ground point after going through the variable resistor in the sending unit.
You can check if problem is the gauge or the sending unit by grounding the fuel gauge wire at the gas tank connector. Pull the electrical connector apart and locate the fuel gauge wire. Jumper that wire to ground on the frame while watching the fuel gauge needle for movement. DO NOT ground it for more than a split second, just touch to ground while someone watches the gauge. If the gauge needle moves at all (will probably go to full or empty), then the problem is the sending unit in the tank. The gauge is good, so is the wire from gauge to tank. I should mention that doing this test can possibly blow the meter (gauges) fuse in the fuse panel- why I said to do it just for a brief moment.
As long as the car is running fine it's safe to say the fuel pump does not need to be replaced. However the fuel tank sending unit may need to be replaced assuming the fuel gauge itself isn't at fault. First check your owners manual if available for your fuse block info and check fuses then I'd look into the sending unit. Let me know if you need help with that
The sender unit in the tank is the most likely cause. To test the panel unit, remove the wire from the fuel tank unit and gound it. The panel gauge needle should move up full scale to hot. Remove the wire from the ground and the gauge should return to empty. If this test is ok, the tank unit needs to be replaced.
Fairly common problem with GM vehicles. The sending unit in your tank has a small circuit board that an arm is attached to which moves up and down according to your fuel level. This circuit board and arm are not making good contact. Unfortunately the only good solution is to replace this part.
Jess, Make sure you don't have the ground and sender level circuits crossed at the gauge. If the needle is pegs to full it indicates an open circuit, if the needle pegs to empty it is indicating a short to ground.
Let me know.
Regards,
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