Question about 2001 Chevrolet S-10

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Fuel Gauge needle

My fuel gauge needle moves every so often when driving. what would cause this?? A friend said maybe the ground circuit, how can I locate this???

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The ground is actually next to the feul pump and the easiest way to it is to take the bed off... Sounds hard but really it only 8 bolts. The bed is not very heavy but it obviously will take two people. Unless its bothering you i'd just leave it be for now usually the feul pump will go out between 110,000-130,000miles

Posted on Jul 30, 2008

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What's your question?fuel pump working but gauge nt working wts can be the cause.


Either the gauge itself, or the wire from gauge to tank, or the sending unit in the tank. Most of the time it is a problem with the sending unit.

They work like this: in the instrument cluster, a small voltage regulator sends low voltage through the gauge, into the wire to tank, and to the sending unit. The unit has a variable resistor that varies according to the fuel level, measured by the float arm attached to the unit. What it (the gauge) actually measures is resistance to ground-the current goes to a ground point after going through the variable resistor in the sending unit.

You can check if problem is the gauge or the sending unit by grounding the fuel gauge wire at the gas tank connector. Pull the electrical connector apart and locate the fuel gauge wire. Jumper that wire to ground on the frame while watching the fuel gauge needle for movement. DO NOT ground it for more than a split second, just touch to ground while someone watches the gauge. If the gauge needle moves at all (will probably go to full or empty), then the problem is the sending unit in the tank. The gauge is good, so is the wire from gauge to tank. I should mention that doing this test can possibly blow the meter (gauges) fuse in the fuse panel- why I said to do it just for a brief moment.

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Anti slosh module? I've never heard of that. If there is such a thing, it must be on the fuel level sending unit in the tank. It is usually the sending unit at fault when the gas gauge stops working.

Here's how to check if the problem is the sending unit or the gauge in the cluster: you will need a helper to watch the gas gauge needle. Pull the electrical connector apart at the tank, find the gas gauge wire. The power wire for the fuel pump is pink and black, and the ground for it is a black wire, so the fuel sender wire should be a different color. When you figure out which wire is for the gas gauge, turn the key to on, and take a jumper wire and ground the gas gauge wire to the frame. Have a helper watch the gas gauge needle when you ground the wire: the needle should move perceptibly. If it does, the gauge in the cluster is good, and the problem is with the sending unit in the tank. If grounding the wire does not make the needle jump, the problem may be the gauge in the cluster. Be sure that you have made a good contact with ground with the jumper wire.
There is a small match box size voltage regulator on the back of the cluster. This sends low voltage (about 5 volts) through the gas gauge and on to the wire going to the tank. When you ground this wire, it should cause the gauge needle to go either to full or to empty, but you should see the needle move. Remember, key on, then ground the wire. Any movement of the needle means the gas gauge is probably good, and the problem is the sending unit in the tank.

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Jess, Make sure you don't have the ground and sender level circuits crossed at the gauge. If the needle is pegs to full it indicates an open circuit, if the needle pegs to empty it is indicating a short to ground.
Let me know.
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