We checked the fuses with a test light, and the switches under the hood, and the socket at the rear of the car, but not in the shifter...my dad is NOT a wiring type of guy. This info is very helpful thank you VERY much...I am going to go test it now!!
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Re: outback light issue
Http://carfiche.com/manuals023/cars/ try this link for now and see if you can download the manual for the subaru wrx i think this will give you a head start in finding switches and relays im th meantime ill do some research and try to find mor acurate manual thx good luck carrie
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get a test light and see if you have power at the bulb plug, yes there is a fuse for lights ....find it and check it... I had 3 chevy/gmc trucks and they all had two fuse boxes one under dash one over drivers front fender well... check for power at fuse/relay (pull the fuse out connect your test light to a ground - one side of the fuse socket should have power (with light switch on) if it doent it is probably the switch at the dash...
It's pos to be an ign switch but before throwing a lot of expensive parts at it before ya fix it I would check All the fuses & relays first, & they're a lot of them an Caddys. Under hood, under dash, under rear seat, if battery is under seat a lot of fuses & relays are there too, (but probably not for these issues). Check anything labeled IGN or ignition switch, or for any system that isn't working, dash/cluster, starter. If the fuses & relays are good then get a test light & start checking from there.
Yes, there is a fuse and also a fusible link, an inertia switch and a couple of relays. Most of these electrical components will be in the relay box under the hood. The way I recommend approaching this is to first check the fuses, then probe the fuel pump relay socket using a 12 volt test light. With the test light clip on chassis ground, the 2 of the terminals in the relay socket should light the test light when the key in on, and one when the key is off. When the test light clip is moved to the positive battery terminal, probing the socket should yield one dim light when the key is off, and an additional bright light when the key is on. Whichever light is missing from these tests will identify where the problem lies. Please tell me the results of these tests if you would like additional advice, and thanks for using FixYa.
Hi, have you checked the fuel pump relay? It is turned on by the PCM. You can try swapping it with a similar relay in the box under the hood. If that doesn't work, probe the relay socket with a 12 volt test light to see what's going on. With the key off, there should be one hot terminal in the relay socket. With the key on, there should be 2 hot terminals and one ground terminal. To find the ground terminal, hook the test light clip to battery positive and probe the socket. A grounded terminal will light the light brightly. The pump terminal should light the light dimly. The 2 hot terminals should not light the light at all. Please let me know if you have questions, and thanks for using FixYa.
The dimmer switch on the stalk usually operates a relay in the fuse box. It could be the dimmer switch, relay, lowbeam fuse, or odd coincidence both lowbeam filaments went out. Use a test light and work backwards.
I am a liecenced mechanic. Start addressing your problem by checking the brake light fuse in the main fuse panel. See the owners manual for location. Main one is under the hood. Secondary panel is on the passenger side kick panel area or in glove box. Replace the fuse if blown. If fuse is o/k check brake pedle brake light switch adjustment. If switch is adjusted properly, check rear brake light bulbs next. If they are o/k check for power at the bulb socket with a 12 volt test light with brake pedle depressed. Light should light. If it does not replace brake light switch and check operation. If problem is not repaired buy a repair manual or bring to a technition for diagnosis.
I had the same problem! I used a piece of wood to keep the break pedal depressed and then started to remove one of the break lamps and to my surprise it came on! Same thing on the other side. So I did not seat (bottom out) the lamps in their sockets and both break light are now working properly. I had a similar issue last spring but that time only one light was out. I put in a new bulb and it still did not work so I messed around with it a little more and it started working. Never did figure it out until now. Hope this helps!
check that the ground wire is connected to ground. You can test the switch with an ohmmeter in the ohm position to see if it's good. You can test power to the switch from the battery or fuse, or whatever power source you are using.