Question about 1996 Chevrolet Blazer

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Abs brakes what can be done if the front brakes won't bleed after replacing abs unit.what procedure should i try to solve the problem?

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  • cajomaki123 Aug 12, 2008

    ended up taking it to the repair shop,it needed a proportioning valve in addition to another abs unit(used)as well as new brake vacuum pump.costs nearly $ 800 bucks.a compleat overhaul almost, but thanks for trying

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  • Master
  • 335 Answers

There are so many small orifices in the abs controller that if you are trying to bleed manually you cant do it I have found that vacuum bleeding aor pressure bleeding are the only ways and then sometimes they dont work it has to go to the dealer sorry some things only the dealer has the secrets and noone can get them away from them sorry ran into this one myself

Posted on Aug 11, 2008

  • Randy Harkins
    Randy Harkins Aug 12, 2008

    thats what I said was wrong Sorry,

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ABS light and traction light and no cruise control


how on earth would the blind know what is wrong.?
scan it? yet?
btw, newer cars cut cruise feature for any signs of danger.
new laws...
the traction needs ABS to work ,so forget that and fix ABS.
ABS needs 2 things to work , brakes and ABS.

so if brakes are bad, then ABS will get upset.
after all, if it cant brake right, how can the puter save you?
if brakes are known to be ok (inspections work here)
but in this case it was BREACHED by you, with out reading the book first.
then scan the ABS. (omg? code for dead sensor?) nah, you caused it..
easy

ABS resets every key on. so...
my guess, if ABS was happy before your actions( you never said)
then you got air in to the system. and failed to follow the FSM instructions on bleeding brakes, in ABS car.

front caliper, did you block the hose with cap, so it didn't allow air to the modulator? oops... never just let them drip... or . max pain.
bleed it again, (using any or all 5 ways to do so, bleeding is skill thing) (many modulators can not just be simply bled)

now Ill quote the 2012 fSM for you , under brakes

Data: -----------------------------------------------------------------
ABS Brake Bleeding
STANDARD PROCEDURE - ABS BRAKE BLEEDING

ABS system bleeding requires conventional bleeding methods plus use of a scan tool. The procedure involves performing a base brake bleeding, followed by use of the scan tool to cycle and bleed the HCU pump and solenoids. A second base brake bleeding procedure is then required to remove any air remaining in the system.

Perform base brake bleeding, (Refer to Brakes - Standard Procedure)(Refer To List 1).

Connect scan tool to the Data Link Connector.

Select ANTILOCK BRAKES, followed by MISCELLANEOUS, then ABS BRAKES. Follow the instructions displayed. When scan tool displays TEST COMPLETE, disconnect scan tool and proceed.

Perform base brake bleeding a second time, (Refer to Brakes - Standard Procedure)(Refer To List 1).

Top off master cylinder fluid level and verify proper brake operation before moving vehicle.

Jul 31, 2015 | 2012 Jeep Liberty Sport 4dr SUV 3.7L V6...

1 Answer

Abs brake system


Best case scenario bad vacuum pressure to the brake booster. Worst case bad abs control module or valve body/motor the abs system works by add and removing hydraulic pressure through valves and electric motor. Try using block off plugs at the master cylinder( remove lines plug outlets at master cylinder) check if brake pedal position and pressure is good(if there is no change problem is master cylinder or brake booster/ vacuum) if plugging at master cylinder solved issue repeat procedure at abs valve body after reinstalling lines from master cylinder if your problem returns your issue is in the abs valve body if plugging at the abs solves problem reconnect at the valve body bleed each line one by one testing between each line until you find the problem

Apr 11, 2014 | Hyundai Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

My breaks wont work after changing the front rotars, calipars and pads. I bleed all four breaks starting with the back passenger side then back drivers side then front passenger side then front drivers...


As a general rule, if you have ABS you might have to cycle the pumps and valves to purge the old fluid out of the unit. This is either done via a dealer scan tool, a purge valve/bleeder valve on the ABS unit, or a less than ethical way. Drive your car and heavily engage the ABS, you know what I'm talking about.
Then you will need to repeat the bleeding process that you have already done.
Normal non ABS brakes, bleed once.
ABS brakes, bleed, cycle then bleed again.

Aug 07, 2011 | Chrysler Cirrus Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

How to bleed brakes on 1997 Saturn


The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures later in this section.

WARNING Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.
  1. The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
    1. Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
    2. Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
    3. Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
    4. Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until all air is removed from the master cylinder.
    5. Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
    6. Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
WARNING Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill, immediately flush the area with water.
  1. If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
    1. Right rear
    2. Left front
    3. Left rear
    4. Right front
  2. Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
    1. Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
    2. Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
    3. Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the caliper or cylinder.
    4. When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
  3. Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is obtained.
zjlimited_349.jpg

Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder

zjlimited_350.jpg

Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid

zjlimited_351.jpg

Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system





Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.

Dec 29, 2010 | 1997 Saturn SL

2 Answers

My 1997 chevy 1500 z71 brakes suddenly going all the way to the floor. Checked brake fluid and it was low. Could be wheel cylinder? Master cylinder? or ?


well, check the brake lines for leakage after adding brake fluid to the full mark. If the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor, it's likely there is a leak somewhere after the master cylinder. If the pedal gets hard after adding fluid, and pumping it several times with the car off, then the master cylinder is still ok.

If air has gotten into the master cylinder, it may have to be bled out on a bench, or using a scanner if that's the way your vehicle is.

Bleeding the Brake System (ABS) Auto Bleed Procedure NOTE: Perform a manual bleeding procedure. If the brake pedal height and firmness results are not achieved, perform the auto bleed procedure below.
NOTE: Perform this procedure when replacing the brake pressure modulator valve or electro-hydraulic control unit.
  1. Perform the manual brake bleeding procedure. Refer to Bleeding the Brake System (non-ABS).
  2. Check the master cylinder fluid level often to prevent running the system dry.
  3. Press the brake pedal firmly and run the Scan Tool Automated Bleed Procedure (for Gas engines) once, or the Function Test (for Diesel engines) four times. Make sure to release the brake pedal between each test.
  4. Perform the manual bleed procedure again. This should remove the remaining air from the brake system.
  5. Bleed the system as many times as needed to obtain the appropriate feel of the brake pedal.

Dec 18, 2010 | 1997 Chevrolet K1500

3 Answers

Whats the procedure for bleeding brakes 2000 grand marquis


Bleed the master cylinder at the brake lines,then bleed right rear ,left rear,right front,and left front.

Jun 12, 2010 | 1998 Mercury Grand Marquis

1 Answer

HOW TO BEAD THE BRAKES FRONT ABS


When changing pads on front ABS brakes a precaution to take, when you compress the piston back with a c - clamp you must unscrew the bleeder to avoid damage to the ABS unit, however the procedure is no different for bleeding ABS than regular brakes just have an assistant pump the brake pedal 5 times then have him hold it until after you open the bleeder then you lock the screw back down he lets the pedal come up and repeats just make sure you keep the master cylinder reservoir 's fluid level full while bleeding.

Aug 04, 2009 | 2000 Chevrolet Silverado 1500

2 Answers

1994 Cavalier -replaced master cylinder-no pressure to rear brake


The most common bleeding procedure is to bleed the ABS brake furthest from the master cylinder first, then bleed the other brake that shares the same hydraulic circuit (which may be the other rear brake on a rear-wheel drive car, or the opposite front brake on a front-wheel drive car or minivan). After these have been bled, you then bleed the other brake circuit starting with the furthest brake from the master cylinder.
Air can be very difficult to remove from an ABS modulator assembly because of all the nooks and crannies inside the unit. The modulator may have eight to 10, or more, ABS/traction control solenoid valves, plus various check valves and dead-end ports. Some ABS modulators have special bleed screws to help you vent the trapped air when bleeding the system. Others do not and require the use of a scan tool to cycle the ABS solenoids while you bleed the system. 1. To bleed the isolation valves in the modulator, there are two bleeder screws. Start with the one toward the engine. Turn the ignition on and apply light pressure on the brake pedal. Open the bleeder screw and allow the fluid to flow until clear. Close the screw and do the same at the second bleeder screw. 2. Depressurize the accumulator by pumping the pedal 40 times with the key off. Wait about two minutes for the brake fluid to de-aerate, then refill the fluid reservoir with DOT 3 brake fluid. 3. Now you can bleed the boost section. This is done by applying moderate pressure on the brake pedal and turning the ignition on for three seconds, then off. Repeat this a total of 10 times. Make sure the pedal feels firm when you have finished, and give the car a road test to make sure the brakes are working properly.

Mar 15, 2009 | 1994 Chevrolet Cavalier

1 Answer

No brake pressure


Your complaint states that you see no air, is there fluid coming out of the left bleeder when bleeding the brakes? If you only see a few drops dribbling out, or nothing comes out at all...This can be a very difficult problem to solve. If this vehicle is a 1992 or later, it has rear antilock brakes, and if it is an ABS system, bleeding usually requires special equipment, and procedures. But there is something you can try. This takes quite a bit of time and patience, and a little bit of preparation. First you must realize that in the case of rear ABS, each rear brake has it's own fluid source, and plumbing from the ABS unit. If the obstruction is in the ABS unit none of the steps following will solve the problem, but you'll have to perform these steps to find out! DO NOT TOUCH THE BRAKE PEDAL UNTIL I INSTRUCT YOU TO HAVE AN ASSISTANT HELP YOU! USE PROPER PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT! (Gloves, and eye protection, and protect your skin from exposure to brake fluid!) First we must know whether the flexible brake hose on the left rear is obstructed. The easiest way is to simply replace it, or if you don't want to start with a new part, you could disconnect it from the steel brake line that runs along the frame towards the rear of the car. (you don't have to remove it from the wheel cylinder first). Place a drip pan underneath the disconnected components. Now open the hood and remove the master cylinder cap. Make sure the brake fluid level is at the maximum height in the master cylinder. Now go back and look to see if there is any fluid leaking from the steel brake line. If there is not, then this is the point where patience is a virtue. There is air in the system all the way to the ABS unit. If the ABS unit is not obstructed or defective, fluid should flow by virtue of the force of gravity through the system and out of the end of the disconnected steel line, but if there is no fluid flow, it will take several minutes to possibly up to an hour and a half. If you have the patience to leave the car alone, maybe go to lunch, or to the auto parts store to shop for a while, gravity will do the bleeding for you. Once fluid begins to leak from the line, reconnect the brake hose and open the bleeder. Allow several more minutes for the wheel cylinder to fill and fluid to bleed out of the bleeder, then close the bleeder. Now do a complete bleed procedure using an assistant to pump the brakes while you finish bleeding any remaining residual air out. If you didn't get fluid from the bleeder, after you reconnected the hose, and after you waited long enough for the wheel cylinder to fill, then the brake hose is obstructed, and you will need a replacement brake hose. Once you are sure there is fluid flow, and no obstructions between the bleeder and the ABS unit, then you shouldbe able to obtain adequate pressure. If you can not get pressure, or fluid flow, you probably need to replace the ABS unit. There are additional procedures for ABS unit bleeding, but again, special equipment is required, so professional service is recommended.

Sep 20, 2008 | 1992 Oldsmobile Ninety Eight Regency

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