In order to properly replace a C.V. boot you need to disassemble that side of the wheel assembly and drop the C.V. axle. The new boot(from parts house or Dealership goes right back on. You will need to clean the area really well and get all grit out because this is what damages the axle itself. Repack the boot with C.V. grease and you're on your way. It can be a tough job sometimes so I recommend investing in a repair manual(like Chilton) to ease the process. The parts houses sell what I call cheater boots now and basically it is a shorter term solution. They install by basically wrapping around the old boot area and then screw together. I installed one for a customer once at her request and it lasted about 10,000 miles. When she had more money she had me put the permanent one on. I will say this about these, if you can't do the permanent repair right away for whatever reason it sure can save a C.V. axle from being destroyed - temporarily. Good Luck
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Boots only need replaced when they have been negated and are leaking grease. However, the time effort and money to replace just one boot when the other is right there might bite you if the other boot needs replaced in the near future. However, if upon inspection the boot is not torn, worn and the knuckle still performs well you do not need to replace that boot.
SOUND LIKE A WORN HALF SHAFT CV JOINT.CHECK FRONT DRIVE AXLES LOOK FOR BUSTED DAMAGED BOOTS.IF BOOTS ARE DAMAGED YOU HAVE TO REPLACE THEM. YOU CAN RE OVER HAUL CV JOINT AND BOOTS BUT IT WILL BE CHEAPER TO BUY NEW ONE YOU NEED TOOLS TO REBUILD CV BOOTS AND AXLE.
How to Replace a CV Boot ( DIY Complexity: Hard / Time: 3.2 hours )
Parts: 1. CV Boot 2. CV Boot Clamp Kit
Tools: 1. Mallet Hammer 2. 3/8 in. Drive Ratchet 3. Combination Wrench Set 4. Floor Jack 5. Flashlight 6. Flat Head Screwdriver 7. Socket Set 8. Tire Iron
Steps: Step 1 Secure the vehicle on a level surface, making sure the vehicle will not roll or lean too much when jacked up. o Tip: Safety Tip:Always wear safety glasses when working on your vehicle. Wear other personal protective equipment (PPE) when necessary, for example latex gloves or safety shoes.
Step 2 Lift up the front of the vehicle using a jack. o Tip: Using an aftermarket floor jack, instead of the original equipment (OE) jack, can make the job easier and safer. Verify the condition of the floor jack before use.
Step 3 Secure the vehicle with jack stands on both sides for safety before starting any work. The pinch welds and the frame are the two best locations. Do not rely on the jack to hold the vehicle up while working. o Tip: Try to find a flat, level, and strong surface to put the jack stands.
Step 4 Find the correct size socket and large ratchet or tire iron and turn the wheel lug nuts counter clockwise. Remove the front wheels. o Tip: It is a good idea to try and break the lug nuts free before you jack the wheels off the ground. This way they you will not spin the front wheels or put stress on the transaxle. o Tip: Lug nuts fasten the wheel to the hub and may be on very tight. To gain more leverage, use a breaker bar to loosen the nuts.
Step 5 Inspect the CV boot for damage. o Tip: The CV joint may be worn if the boot is damaged. Thoroughly inspect the CV joint assembly before installing the new boot. If the CV joint is damaged, replace the entire CV joint axle assembly.
Step 6 Mark the axle for installation reference. Remove the CV joint axle assembly.
Step 7 Using a bench vise, hold the shaft of the CV joint secure so that you can separate the CV joint from the shaft. Remove the CV boot clamps.
Step 8 Slide the CV boot off the outer CV joint.
Step 9 Using a rubber mallet, knock the CV joint off of the axle shaft.
Step 10 Remove the old boot from the CV axle shaft and wipe off any old grease. Clean the sealing surface on the CV joint.
Step 11 Fill the CV joint with grease and get it ready to slide back onto the shaft.
Step 12 Slide the new boot onto the shaft but do not tighten the inner clamp yet. Install a new retaining clip before putting the joint and axle together.
Step 13 Slide the CV joint back onto the axle shaft completely.
Step 14 Pack the boot with grease and slide the boot over the CV joint housing. Secure the boot with new clamps.
Step 15 Install the CV joint and axle back into the vehicle in the reverse order that it was removed.
Step 16 Mount the wheel back onto the hub assembly.
Step 17 Tighten lug nuts in a star pattern and torque to suggested manufacturer specifications in the vehicle owner’s manual.
Step 18 Remove jack stands.
Step 19 Lower vehicle with jack until it is securely on the ground.
Step 20 Drive the vehicle to make sure that any noises are no longer present and that there are no indications of wearing parts. Before road testing, visually inspect the area you have worked on to make sure everything is tightened and assembled properly.
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Much of the symptoms you describe sound like a CV joint. I would take it to the dealer and insist that it be fixed... What is bothering me though is under normal operating conditions, CV joints and boots are engineered to last upwards of 150,000 miles. Some go the distance, but a lot reach the end of the road far short of their design life. According to one major aftermarket supplier of replacement axle shafts, CV joint shafts are typically being replaced at anywhere from 70,000 miles to 130,000 miles.
Read this and see if you agree... SYMPTOMS OF CV JOINT FAILURE Bad boots are not the only thing you need to look for. You also need to listen for noise or complaints that might indicate a CV joint problem. These include:
Popping or clicking noises when turning. This almost always indicates a worn or damaged outer CV joint. To verify this condition, place the vehicle in reverse, crank the steering wheel to one side and drive the vehicle backwards in a circle (check the rearview mirror first!). If the noise gets louder, it confirms the diagnosis and the need for a new CV joint or replacement shaft assembly.
A "clunk" when accelerating, decelerating or when putting the transaxle into drive. The noise comes from excessive play in the inner joint on FWD applications, either inner or outer joints in a RWD independent suspension, or from the driveshaft CV joints or U-joint in a RWD or AWD powertrain. The same kind of noise can also be produced by excessive backlash in differential gears. To verify the condition, back the vehicle up, alternately accelerating and decelerating while in reverse. If the clunk or shudder is more pronounced, it confirms a bad inner joint.
A humming or growling noise. Sometimes due to inadequate lubrication in either the inner or outer CV joint, this symptom is more often due to worn or damaged wheel bearings, a bad intermediate shaft bearing on equal length halfshaft transaxles, or due to worn shaft bearings within the transaxle.
A shudder or vibration when accelerating. May be caused by play in the inboard or outboard joints, but the most likely cause is a worn inboard plunge joint. Similar vibrations can also be caused by a bad intermediate shaft bearing on transaxles with equal length halfshafts, or by bad motor mounts on FWD vehicles with transverse-mounted engines.
A vibration that increases with speed. This symptom is rarely caused by a failing CV joint. An out-of-balance tire or wheel, an out-of-round tire or wheel, or a bent rim are the more likely causes.
Is this only when turning and accelerating? If so it si your CV axle shaft on that side. Very common in FWD cars. The clicking is the shaft not being lubricated due to the boot that holds the grease (where the axle flexes for turning) being worn/torn and needs to be replace otherwise after extended driving will cause the shaft to break loose leaving the car disabled. Sometimes when the axle breaks it snaps back and damages the trans pan so its very important to have it replaced. The axle cost about $60-$100 and labor should be about 45min-1hr for any certified shop to replace. Sometimes you can get it replaced for $150-$250 total depending on what shop you go to, shop around....
1. Have the caliper checked if the retaining bolts are fully tightened and all shims and pins are properly installed. 2. Was your rotors resurfaced??If not, The new pads are flat(new), and the rotor might be uneven causing the pads to vibrate. 3. If they aren't the rotors, inspect the CV shafts for tightening, or damage. Hopefully this helps
A humming or growling noise can sometimes be heard due to inadequate lubrication in either the inner or outer CV joint. Inspect the boot and see if it is cracked or split. This symptom is more often due to worn or damaged wheel bearings, a bad intermediate shaft bearing on equal length halfshaft transaxles, or due to worn shaft bearings within the transaxle.