Replaced intake manifold gas kit, throttle body gas kit, spark plugs, wires, checked the compression on cylinder 3 which is 120. I do not know what else to look for. Cylinder 3 is still misfiring.

Code 301 means cylinder one is not producing power.
Problem could be ignition, fuel, or mechanical.
If compression is good on all cylinders, check the fuel injector.

Sir, your question is not very clear, but I will still try to post a solution here. Engine missing could be due to any problem in fuel system, ignition system, engine or ECM as well.

LOW ENGINE IDLE SPEED (Poor idling):
-Throttle body (do the cleaning and idle speed learning)
-A /C signal circuit
-Fuel pump control circuit
-Fuel pump
-Intake system
-P C V valve (clogged or open) and hose

ROUGH IDLING:
-Cylinder Compression
-Ignition system (Igniters, spark plugs, wiring harness)
-Spark plug fouled, gap too wide or too short. (1.00-1.1 mm)
-Fuel injector circuit
-E C M power source circuit
-Fuel pump control circuit
-Fuel pump (required pressure 44 psi - 49 psi)
-Throttle body (cleaning)
-Intake system
-P C V valve and hose
-Air fuel ratio sensor
-Heated oxygen s ens or
-Mass air flow meter
-Idle hunting
-Throttle body
-Intake system
-P C V valve and hose
-Air fuel ratio sensor
-Mass air flow meter

HESITATION/ POOR ACCELERATION:
-Fuel pump control circuit
-Fuel pump
-Spark plug
-Ignition system
-Fuel injector circuit
-E C M power source circuit
-Mass air flow meter
-Throttle body (do cleaning)
-Intake system
-Valve timing
-Cylinder Compression

Check for spark at each cylinder. Is it missing? Or is it a transmission problem? Is engine response fine in park?

If you have a misfire, troubleshoot with this in mind: for combustion to occur, the cylinder needs air, gas, spark, and compression. Misfires occur because one of them is missing or not correct. As in say, the fuel/air mixture could be incorrect, or the compression could be too low for that cylinder to produce power. So you check the easiest first- 1. check all cylinders for spark. 2. Then check that gas is being injected into the cylinders. 3. Then check for vacuum leaks from vacuum hoses and the intake manifold gasket and the throttle body gasket. The fuel is metered in by how much air the computer knows is going past the mass air flow sensor or the MAP sensor. If extra air gets sucked in through a leak, the mixture can be leaned out way too much. 4. If you have gas and spark, and still misfiring, you may have a mechanical problem-now you need to check compression in the cylinders.

If you have a transmission problem, it could be the torque converter clutch not releasing. Transmission problems are very vexing, worse than a curse.

Sounds like a dirty Throttle Body and dirty IAC (Idle Air Compensator) valve. Get some good Throttle Body cleaner remove the flexible hose at the Throttle Body spray it and wipe it very very clean an old tooth brush works good for getting in there.

Now remove the IAC from the side of the throttle body, careful with the gasket if you want to reuse it. Spray it down good inside moving the valve back and forth as you do let it soak for a few minutes and clean it again. Blow it out with some compressed air and reinstall it. Put some throttle body/injector cleaner in the fuel tank.

Keep us updated.

on a V-6 Escape isn't a really difficult job but it can be quite time consuming. If you're used to replacing spark plugs on a simpler engine you might be surprised to learn that you have to remove the upper intake manifold. It's not really as bad as it sounds. This is the order I do it in and not necessarily how you'll want to do it. You will need 6 spark plugs(I recommend Motorcraft) and 6 upper intake manifold gaskets.
Remove the plastic enigne appearance cover over the top of the engine. It has 3 8mm nuts that attach it to the valve cover studs. The Escape I worked on in these pictures had been worked on by another shop and apparently they forgot to reinstall the cover so I don't have a picture of it.
Loosen the hose clamps that hold the intake tube to the throttle body and air filter housing. Pull the breather hose out of the intake tube and remove the tube.

Remove the throttle cable from the bracket by twisting the cable housing and then remove the cable from the throttle lever on the throttle body. Remove the cruise control cable from the stud on the throttle lever by pulling it up. Don't try prying it off or it will break. Squeeze the tabs that hold the cruise control cable housing into the bracket and remove the cable from the bracket.

Remove the cable bracket from the upper intake manifold and tie the cables out of the way, probably to the cruise control servo.

Disconnect the TP (Throttle Position) sensor and IAC (Idle Air Control) connectors. Unclip the vent hose from the bracket under the throttle body.

Remove the vacuum hose and vapor hose from the Vapor Management Valve. The vapor hose has 2 tabs that you carefully pry apart to remove it.

Remove the vacuum hose from the EGR (Exhaust Gas Recirculation) valve and the 2 hoses from the EGR solenoid as well as the connector on the solenoid. The connector has a tab you squeeze to release it.

Remove the EGR tube from the valve. It takes a 1 1/8" wrench.

Remove the vacuum hoses from the back of the intake manifold.

Unclip the electrical connectors from the manifold. You don't have to disconnect the connectors.

Remove the nut that holds the wiring bracket to the EGR solenoid and position the wiring out of the way.

Tie the wiring and hoses out of the way.

Remove the 8 bolts that hold the upper intake manifold to the lower manifolds.

Stuff clean rags in the intake ports so nothing accidently falls into them.

Unplug the connectors off the COPs (Coil On Plug). Each cylinder has it's own coil.

Remove the bolts and COPs.

It's a good idea to clean the rubber boot part of each COP. I like to clean them with WD40.

Blow out the spark plug wells with compressed air and remove the spark plugs.

Gap the new spark plugs with a gapping tool to .052-.056".

Install the new spark plugs. Some people like to use a small amount of anti-seize on the threads. Others put them in dry.
A good way to thread the new spark plugs into their holes is with a piece of rubber fuel line hose over the spark plug insulator. That way you can feel the threads starting and you'll be able to tell if they aren't screwing in easily. If they won't screw in using your fingers and a piece of hose, stop and see why not. Crossthreading spark plugs is no fun. Torque the spark plugs to 11 ft.lbs.
Replace the intake manifold gaskets. They pop out with a small screwdriver or pick. Push the new ones into place.

Reinstall the manifold carefully. You need to set it pretty much straight down onto the lower manifolds to make sure that you don't damage the gaskets. Torque the manifold bolts to 89 in.lbs....not ft.lbs.
Reassemble the rest in the opposite order that you took it apart. Try working the throttle a few times to make sure it returns properly etc. Start the engine and listen for any unusual noises such as vacuum leaks. Once you're all done you can congratulate yourself on a job well done and think about all the money you just saved :)
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Check all the vacuum hoses on the intake manifold for a leak. Replace all broken and cracked lines. Check from the coil to spark plug wires with an inline spark tester for fire. Check the spark plugs for fouling and cracked terminals. Inspect the spark plug wires for worn or cracks. If you can check the fuel pressure to the throttle body. Also look at the air filter. Hope this will help you.

Bonneville, LeSabre, Park Avenue 2000-2005 Intake Manifold - Removal & Installation

3.8L Engine
VIN 1 Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
2. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
3. Drain the cooling system.
4. Remove or disconnect the following:
   Negative battery cable Supercharger Thermostat housing Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) tube at the intake manifold Engine Control Temperature (ECT) sensor Intake manifold

To install:

1. Install or connect the following:
   Intake manifold with new gaskets. Torque the bolts, working from the center out, to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm). ECT sensor connector EGR tube to the intake manifold Thermostat housing Supercharger Negative battery cable
2. Refill and bleed the cooling system.
3. Run the engine and check for leaks and proper engine operation.

VIN K Engine

1. Before servicing the vehicle, refer to the Precautions section.
2. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
3. Drain the cooling system.
4. Relieve the fuel system pressure.
5. Remove or disconnect the following:
   Fuel injector sight shield Air inlet duct Spark plug wires from the right side Manifold Absolute Pressure (MAP) sensor Vacuum lines from the intake manifold Fuel lines Fuel injector electrical connectors Fuel regulator vacuum line Fuel rail from the intake manifold Exhaust Gas Recirculation (EGR) heat shield Throttle cable bracket from the cylinder head mounting bracket and the throttle body cables Throttle body support bracket Upper intake plenum and gasket Thermostat housing Electrical connector from the Engine Coolant Temperature (ECT) sensor Drive belt tensioner assembly EGR valve outlet pipe Lower intake manifold
   
   
   Fig. Exploded view of the intake manifold and related components-3.8L (VIN K) engine
   

To install:



Fig. Upper intake manifold torque sequence-3.8L (VIN K) engine



Fig. Lower intake manifold torque sequence-3.8L (VIN K) engine

1. Install or connect the following:
   Intake manifold using new manifold gaskets. Torque the bolts in sequence to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm); then, re-torque to 11 ft. lbs. (15 Nm). EGR valve outlet pipe Drive belt tensioner assembly. Torque the tensioner bolts to 37 ft. lbs. (50 Nm). Electrical connector to the ECT sensor Thermostat housing Upper intake plenum. Torque the intake plenum bolts to 88 inch. lbs. (10 Nm). Throttle body support bracket Throttle cable bracket to the cylinder head mounting bracket and the cables to the throttle body lever EGR heat shield Fuel rail. Torque the fuel rail bolts to 88 inch. lbs. (10 Nm). Fuel lines Fuel regulator vacuum line Fuel injector electrical connectors Vacuum lines to the intake manifold MAP sensor Spark plug wires Fuel injector sight shield and air inlet duct Negative battery cable
2. Refill and bleed the cooling system.
3. Run the engine and check for leaks and proper engine operation.

Hope this help (remember rated this).

Intake manifold clogged or blocked off?

Check the fuel pressure and injectors also, try adding injector cleaner to your gas for the next three gas tanks. Start with that, Good luck and hope this helps, keep me posted.