It must be replaced with remanufactured or new one.
Mercedes dealer will charge you a lot to fix it. $2880 or $3000 is about right. However if you take it to independent, qualifying German car repair shop, the cost will be less because they can locate the replacement part cheaper and charge less since their overhead cost is less than at the dealer.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
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Richard, you really should get a manual. last link manual is free.
Check the attached links,instruction and guides, Good luck
"I hope this helped you out, if so let me know by pressing the helpful button. Check out some of my other posts if you need more tips and info." 1997 Volvo 960 front suspension Google Search
brakes and rotors will not cause noise unless they are badly worn and this will be evident on inspection
most noise will be from rubber suspension bushes and sway bar and shocky rubbers
I would suggest that you get quotes from suspension accredited shops and have each shop show you what is worn and what is ok
ON good roads ( hard surface) suspension units should last 60.000 miles before requiring repairs ( barring road damage)
You can fit standard struts and simply unplug the suspension control unit. You would need to change all 4 corners, i suggest spending a little bit more and getting either Bilsten or Koni struts and eibach brand coil springs, it will give the best suspension setup and the total cost for the lot would be less than the cost of one new strut, Also keep in mind that these fail and if you replace one then it's likely that another will fail in the near future.
Steps to replace front struts (actually coil-over shocks) on 2005 Toyota 4Runner:
(1) Jack up the front of the car and remove BOTH front wheels.
(2) Remove the skid plate underneath the front of the engine by removing the 4 (four) 12mm bolts.
(3) Remove the 2 (two) nuts (one on each side of the car) that connect the anti-sway bar to the front suspension. You can now push out the link by your thumb (or by LIGHTLY tapping on the link with a wooden mallet.
(4) Remove the anti-sway bar from the car by removing the 4 (four) bolts that holds the 2 (two) mounting plates and rubber bushings. Be careful not to let the anti-sway bar fall on you when you remove the final bolt.
(5) Spray some penetrating oil on the nuts and bolts that connect the strut assembly to the suspension (one nut at the top center of the strut, three nuts at the top of the strut connecting the strut to the suspension, and one nut at the bottom of the strut).
(6) Loosen, but do not remove, the three nuts that hols the strut to the top of the suspension. DO NOT remove the center nut at the top of the strut. This nut retains the coil spring onto the strut assembly and is under some serious pressure. You could be seriously injured if you remove this nut at this time.
(7) Remove the large nut at the bottom of the strut and slid the strut off from the lower mounting stud. You may need to use some pressure to get the strut to slide off completely.
(8) Now remove the three nuts holding the strut to the suspension at the top of the strut. Note that one nut is actually the third point of the triangle and is out of sight and located "behind" the center strut nut. Although not visible from sitting in the wheel well, you can reach around the opening between the top of the strut and the body (into the engine compartment) and feel the nut and you can get a wrench on it to facilitate removal. Once these nuts are out you can remove the strut by lowering it and feeding it out between the suspension components. I actually had to move the wheels back and forth to maximize the removal space, plus rotate the entire strut several revolutions (basically "unscrew" the strut) to get it out.
(9) Once the strut is out, use coil spring compressors (purchase some from Harbour Freight or rent from a car parts store) and compress the spring until it is loose enough to rotate inside the strut.
(10) Once the spring is compressed, remove the center nut from the top of the strut and disassemble the pieces paying particular attention to the order of removal. You will probably have to hold the strut shaft with a wrench while removing the center nut to keep the shaft from rotating.
(11) Assembly is the reverse.
NOTE that I purchased Monroe struts and the instructions were missing from the box. The directions on the outside of the box were worse than useless, and the struts did not seem right as any combination of the washers and bushings provided in the box did not allow proper fit as the spring was loose after removal of the spring compressors. The monroe www site did not have downloadable instructions, and Monroe failed to return my emailed requests for technical advice. I wound up returning the monroe struts and purchased from Toyota (at three times the price). Would recommend Blisteins (sp?) or some other brand other than Monroe.
FINAL NOTES: Make darn sure you have the spring compressed before you remove the center nut. You could be seriously injured if you fail to follow this step. Total time would be 3 hours for both sides without power tools, or 2 hours with power tools. Also, when removing and installing the struts, a second person would be nice the have so they can push on the suspension to allow for bolt/nut alignment.
I have 161,000 on my 00 Runner. Have had the shocks/struts changed TWICE.... (thats cause I have FUN with mine over the years) Personally, I would go with what the dealership says, then just replicate that at a good shop for cheaper price.
Sounds like you may have a front strut problem. Over time the struts get weak and the strut mounts also. My recommendation is to have the struts ( and other front suspension components) looked at by a repair shop just to verify your concern. Hope this helps.