Question about 2007 Mercedes-Benz E320 BLUETEC Sedan

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Engine won't start.

Engine cranking,fuel pump working but injector won' t release petrol due to both supply cable to injector is positive

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  • nateizzo Sep 08, 2008

    I parked my car. 3 days later car would crank but not start. changed crank sensor and still have the same problem. Please help!





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2 Answers

Parked my 2003 the garage want start now....lights nothing will come on tried chargin battery lights came on radio but died again several time do i need new battery or need aaa recharge battery

Posted on Oct 03, 2008

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  • 221 Answers

You should take this Car to Service Station.

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Posted on Jul 01, 2008

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Left ignition switch on recharged battery turns over won't start I can't here the external fuel pump running


Sorry, do you mean you left the key in the ignition ....in the ON position whilst charging the battery?
Why would you do this please?
If this is correct check that your battery is charged.
You say you cannot hear the fuel pump priming, that is all it does when the key is turned to the accessory or on position, it only starts to pump fuel continuaously when the engine is turned / cranked over..... the pumping of uel becomes continuous after the engine is started and the crank position sensor sends signals on every revolution that the engine is running. If you hear the pump when the engine is not running then something is seriously amiss.
I was always taught, as a mechanic not an auto electrician, that leaving the ignition on is undesirable because it can burn out things such as the coil or coils.


FOR TYOICAL NON START SITUATIONS I WOULD SAY THE FOLLOWING


check that the fuel is getting to the engine and the sparkis presentm if it is a gas/petrol engine that is. The spark and fuel must be introduced into the combustion chamber simultaneously foran engine to work.
If one is present without the other the engine cannot work.So check that the fuel is getting there by slightly loosening one of the plugs and turning over for a good while ...then quickly remove the spark plug and check to see whether the end of the plug is moist with fuel. If it is not quicklysniff the spark plug holechecking for the smeell ofgas/ petrol... if you can smell it the n that is onepossible causediscounted.
Thenpush the removed plug into thewire associated with it and place the tip close to a metal section of the engine.....do not hold it.....
Withsomebody cranking the engine over observe the spark produced...if a spark is produced make note ofwhether it is a healthy, visible spark... If it is that may be another cause discounted.
If the spark is ok and the fuel is ok thenyou need to check the timing, that isyou need to check that thetwo elements are introduced into the combustion chamber simultaneously
This can be done by a mechanic if you cannot check yourself. A mechanic may be able to makeadjustments to the fuel supply and the spark to make them coincide thereby making the engine work.
Ifduring the above process you find that no fuel is getting to the combustion chamber , or whetherthe injection of fuel is a weak one , you must seek to ascertain what the cause of the bad fuel supply is.
Maybe clogged fuel lines orfuel pipes impeding the flow.
Maybe aweak fuel pump not delivering enough pressure.
A malfunction of any ofthesensors associated with the fuel system that lead to no or bad fuel delivery. These include thecrank position sensor, the cam position sensor, the throttle position sensor, the electronic control unit, the sensors attached to it, etc.

If the spark is found to be weakyou should try changing plug wirres/cables
If that has little effect check the distributor cap/rotor arm for condition.
If that is okay check the coil or coil packs.

Remember thatthese are onlysome of the potential causes ofnon working engines,

Jul 17, 2015 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

I have a 03 mitsubishi galant need to get it running again. Just had intank fuel pump replaced. Car wants to start but, won't turn over... Help me please!!!


By won't turn over, do you mean it cranks over but won't start, or it won't even crank? If the starter is cranking the engine, check the fuel pressure or verify the pump is working. Just turning the key to on, not start, should turn the pump on for a couple of seconds, to put fuel in the line and up to the engine. If you have fuel pressure, check for spark. If you have spark, check the fuel injector circuit.

If the engine won't crank, you need to check the state of your battery, it should be 12.6 volts to be fully charged. If it is good, check both battery cables for clean, tight connections, check for a good ground connection, and the positive cable that attaches to the starter-make sure that connection is tight. If still no crank, take the starter off to be tested.

Jun 05, 2015 | 2003 Mitsubishi Galant

2 Answers

My van is hard to start first thing in morning and has a new fuel pump


The fuel pump is just one of many components that could cause poor starting if not at peak efficiency. You don't say whether the engine is petrol or diesel powered but in both cases a good cranking speed is essential to cold starting and again in both cases sufficient fuel must be delivered into the combustion chambers in the right form; bad spray patterns due to worn or dirty injectors can cause bad starting, though most commonly in the case of petrol engines it is a poor spark or worn spark plugs and in the case of diesel engines tired or defective heater plugs that cause poor starting.

There is quite a bit to think about and quite a bit to check...

Feb 24, 2015 | 2001 Chrysler Town & Country

1 Answer

Cranks but wont start


Likely a fuel delivery problem.

Check the filter, as it may be clogged and due for replacement. To test for fuel delivery, open your airbox and spray some starter fluid (purified ether, usually) down into the throttle body while someone else cranks the engine. If it fires up and runs for a few seconds but won't run without spraying the starter fluid, then you know you've got spark and compression. If that's the case, there could be any number of potential issues: throttle position sensor (not very common, but it does happen), fuel injectors clogged (common if you use low-grade fuel), fuel filter/strainer clogged (filters should be replaced every 30k miles or so, on average), fuel pump failure (you should hear a buzzing from the fuel pump when you crank the engine).

If the starter fluid doesn't help, then the problem is no spark. Check each plug/cable for fouling.

Feb 08, 2014 | Toyota RAV4 Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

No spark ferom coil


Probable Causes: Fuel Pump (P0230 to P0233) PCM (P0600 to P0606) Crank Sensor (P0355 to P0399) Fuel Pressure (P0190 to P0194) Chances are the Check Engine Light is not on, but you may find any of the following codes: P0230 to P0233 Fuel Pump codes P0600 to P0606 PCM related codes P0335 to P0339 Crank Sensor codes P0190 to P0194 Fuel Pressure Sensor codes No spark due to a bad crank position sensor, a faulty ignition module or PCM, a problem in the ignition circuit (ignition switch, antitheft system, wiring, etc.), a faulty park/neutral safety switch, a bad ignition coil (only on engines with a single coil ignition), or wet plugs or plug wires (did it rain last night, did you just wash the engine?) A less common cause is a worn starter that draws so many amps while cranking the engine that there's not enough juice left to adequately power the ignition system and fuel injectors. Contributing factors might be a weak battery and/or loose or corroded battery cables. No fuel because of a dead fuel pump, bad fuel pump relay, blown fuel pump fuse, plugged fuel filter or line, or failed PCM injector driver circuit or injector power supply relay. Or, the fuel tank might be empty (don't believe what the gauge is telling you), or the fuel tank might contain contaminated fuel (water or too much alcohol) or the wrong type of fuel (whoops, somebody put in diesel instead of gasoline). No compression because the timing belt or chain is broken, the timing belt or chain is loose and jumped out of time, or the overhead camshaft has snapped.

Dec 20, 2013 | 2000 Hyundai Sonata

1 Answer

Truck will not start


check the cranking speed is as high as a petrol engine . If not charge the battery . Check that the glo-plugs are working and if no glo-plugs check that the fuel igniter in the inlet manifold is working.; Check and bleed air from the pump . crack the injector lines at the injectors and turn over until fuel drips from the nuts. Keep turning over the engine as the nuts are done up .. It is all about crank speed and air in the pump.

Dec 02, 2013 | 2005 Ford F 250 Super Duty

2 Answers

1997 Chevy silverado 350 has new fuel pump but still won't crank? What else could be wrong?


Did you replace the fuel filter when you replaced the pump ?
Is the pump getting power and ground ?
Do you have normal fuel pressure at the injectors ?

Apr 06, 2013 | Chevrolet Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

Engine is not starting due to fuel supply


check and replace fuel filter
replace fuel pump

but be sure your initial diagnosis -
['engine is not starting due to fuel supply']
is accurate. Use a fuel pressure gauge to determine whether pump pressure calibrates to injectors.

Jun 29, 2012 | Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

1991 Olds Cutlass Ciera 3.3 v6 would start, run a few minutes fine, while cold. When warmed up it would shut off, stall, not restart. It would crank over good, but not restart. Added fuel to...


jrtvett's "unplug one injector and start" troubleshooting procedure would work if one injector is bad. If more than one injector is bad, then not so sure.
Like you mentioned, one or more injector(s) can go bad and it causes the others to stop working as well. After our experience, I am convinced this observation (fault mode) is correct (see below). Its as if upon warmup the solenoid in the faulty injector shorts, resulting in short circuit of signals to all the other injectors.
We have a 1989 Olds Cutlass Ciera with the 2.8L V6 that recently had the same fault: At least one injector went bad after warmup, then engine refused to restart. All other possibilities were eliminated, including crank shaft sensor, ECM, ignition pack, idle start valve, bad gas, rail pressure, etc.
No Service Engine light illuminated, and there were no fault codes in the ECM computer.
The jrtvett procedure could not easily be utilized in our case because all the injector connectors are underneath the intake manifold and inaccessible.
My cousin is a Ford mechanic told me of an analysis procedure Ford uses to troubleshoot injector problems. They display rail pressure on a LCD or CRT monitor and can see pressure drop with each injector's opening. Unfortunately, if the car is not starting, then this test will not be of much use. The engine has to be idling or at least all of the solenoids in all of the injectors operational to use this test. If engine won't start, then its clear none of the injectors are opening as described above, then no fluctuations in rail pressure would be displayed.
The shop that was working on our car decided to replaced all of the injectors, and the engine now runs like new.
Due to inaccessibility of injectors and fact these injectors were inexpensive ($40-$50 each), it was wise just to replace all six. Grading old injectors is not exact science.

Apr 04, 2011 | 1991 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera

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