Hi. I have a large rubber ring with 1 large groove on one side and 3 smaller (the rubber is sort of graduated) grooves on the other and a windshield for my old VW Jetta. How would I go about doing the installation myself? Thanks!
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert whose answer got voted for 100 times.
Re: self installation of front windshield
Wrap rope in the inside of the windshield gasket with the window in place. Lay the window in place and from the inside of the car, pull the rope. The rope guides the windshield gasket to the inside of the windshield opening and next thing you know it, the windshield is in place.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
QU40221 19 Spline Outer Axle Shaft for 1977 to 1991 Chevy, GMC Corporate GM 10 Bolt Front Axle is a genuine original equipment outer axle stub shaft for all GM 10 Bolt front axles in 1977 to 1991 Chevy Blazers, GMC Jimmys, and Suburbans, plus Chevy, GMC 4x4 1/2 ton and 3/4 ton Pickups. The splined end on these new axle shafts has three snap ring grooves in three places so they are compatible with all types of automatic and manual lockout hubs plus all full-time solid splined drive gears.
Also available while supplies last: QU40221U Used Outer Axle Shaft with 3 snap ring grooves and QU40660UUsed Inner Axle Shafts with 2 snap ring grooves (QU40660U is not compatible with automatic locking hubs)
Install a new set ring in the set ring groove of the driveshaft (left driveshaft).
Apply 2.0-3.0 g (0.07-0.10 oz) of grease to the whole splined surface (A) of the right driveshaft. After applying grease, remove the grease from the splined grooves at intervals of 2-3 splines and from the set ring groove (B) so that air can bleed from the intermediate shaft.
Clean the areas where the driveshaft contacts the differential thoroughly with solvent or brake cleaner, and dry with compressed air. Insert the inboard end (A) of the driveshaft into the differential (B) or intermediate shaft (C) until the set ring (D) locks into the groove (E).
Install the outboard joint (A) into the front hub (B).
Install the knuckle (A) onto the lower arm (B). Be careful not to damage the ball joint boot (C). Wipe off the grease before tightening the nut at the ball joint. Torque the new castle nut (D) to the lower torque specification, then tighten it only far enough to align the slot with the ball joint pin hole. Do not align the nut by loosening it.
NOTE: Make sure the ball joint boot is not damaged or cracked.
Install the new lock pin (E) into the pin hole as shown.
Install the stabilizer link (A) to the damper (B).
Install a new spindle nut (A), then tighten the nut. After tightening, use a drift to stake the spindle nut shoulder (B) against the driveshaft.
Clean the mating surfaces of the brake disc and the front wheel, then install the front wheel with the wheel nuts.
Turn the front wheel by hand, and make sure there is no interference between the driveshaft and surrounding parts.
Tighten the flange bolts and the self-locking nut with the vehicle's weight on the damper.
Here's what Chilton has to say on assembling the main shaft. 1.assemble 2nd gear, from rear of main shaft, with hub toward rear. 2.Install 1-2 synchronizer ring , with clutch taper to rear, together with a blocker ring on each side so their keyways line up with the clutch keys. Some units will have a snap ring to go on now or some units will have a 1st gear spacer sleeve to go on. 3. Install 1st gear with hub toward front and 1st gear thrust washer. 4.Press rear main bearing onto shaft being sure to seat it firmly. The diagram shows a piece of 1 and 5/8 ID pipe used to do this. 5. Install correct snap ring in groove on mainshaft behind rear bearing. Max gap between snap ring and rear face of bearing is 0"-.005". 6.Install 3rd gear, hub to front, and synchronizing ring, notches to front. 7. Install 3-4 clutch assembly with taper and hub to front. Make sure keys in hub correspond to notches in 3rd gear synchronizer. 8.Install snap ring on mainshaft with ends of snap ring behind spline teeth. 9.Install rear bearing retainer. Spread snap ring in plate to allow plate to drop around main bearing and press on end of mainshaft until snap ring engages groove on bearing. 10. Install reverse gear with collar to rear. 11. Press speedometer gear drive on mainshaft. From the inside face of the speedometer drive to the inside face of the rear bearing retainer should be 4 and 5/16".
1 Open the RAV4's hood. Locate the
back of the headlight assembly, just behind the headlight. You should
see a ring-shaped plastic cover.
Turn the locking plastic ring clockwise about 1/2 inch and it should pop off.
Remove the rubber grommet covering back of the headlight. Simply pull it out of the headlight assembly.
Depress the spring latch holding
the bulb in place behind the headlight. This is a wire latch that looks
somewhat like a bent paper clip. Press it down and move it to the side,
away from the light bulb. It should come free and flip open, freeing
Disconnect the light bulb from
the plug. Replace it with the new light bulb, and replace the latch and
rubber grommet. Replace the plastic ring cover and turn your headlights
on to ensure proper installation.
Clogged PCV Valve The main purpose of the PCV (positive crankcase ventilation) valve is to recirculate blow-by gases back from the crankcase area through the engine to consume unburned hydrocarbons. Blow by is a mixture of air, gasoline and combustion gases forced past the rings on the combustion stroke. The PCV system usually has a tube leading from the crankcase to the carburetor or intake manifold. Vacuum within the engine intake manifold pulls blow by gases out of the crankcase into the combustion chamber along with the regular intake of air and fuel.
Worn Piston Ring Grooves For piston rings to form a good seal, the sides of the ring grooves must be true and flat - not flared or shouldered - and the rings must have the correct side clearance in the grooves. Normally, automotive ring groove side clearance should not exceed .002-.004. As the pistons move up and down, the rings must seat on the sides of the grooves in very much the same way that valves must seat to prevent leakage. New rings in tapered or irregular grooves will not seal properly and, consequently, oil will pass around behind the rings into the combustion chamber. Worn grooves are usually flared or tapered causing increased side clearances which permit more than the normal amount of oil to pass the rings into the combustion chamber. Excessive side clearances also create a pounding effect by the rings on the sides of the piston grooves. This promotes piston groove wear and, if the condition is not corrected, breakage of rings lands may occur.
Cracked or Broken Ring Lands Cracked or broken ring lands prevent the rings from seating completely on their sides and cause oil pumping by a process similar to that described in #7. In addition to this, they also lead to serious damage to the cylinders as well as complete destruction of the pistons and rings. Cracked or broken ring lands cannot be corrected by any means other than piston replacement and this should be done as soon as there is the slightest indication of a crack. Worn Valve Stems and Guides When wear has taken place on valve stems and valve guides, the vacuum in the intake manifold will draw oil and oil vapor between the intake valve stems and guides, into the intake manifold and then into the cylinder where it will be burned. If this condition is not corrected when new piston rings are installed, an engine is likely to use more oil than it did before because the new piston rings will increase the vacuum in the intake manifold. When gum or deposits on the valve stems are removed - a procedure recommended when overhauling an engine - the seal previously formed will be removed and leakage will be more pronounced. This is particularly true on overhead valve engines where loss of oil may occur on the exhaust valves as well as on the intake valves. High oil consumption caused by too much valve guide clearance can frequently be cured by reaming or nerraling the valve stem. In some cases new valves may also be required. Use of a permanently bonded valve stem seal will give added insurance against oil leakage on complete engine overhauls or on valve jobs.
Large Oil Leaks
Leaking valve cover gaskets, leaking crankshaft front and rear seals.
sounds like a filler tube grommet....? filler tube hoses r normally 2 to 3 inches in diameter.purge hoses r way smaller like 5/16 or 3/8 inch diam. these smaller hoses have connections mayb plastic with clips, they usually have rubber o rings on the inside of fittings ,may have rotted /cracked orings
Here is how:
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
See Figures 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6
Remove the door pad and inner moisture barrier.
If working on the rear window of a sedan, remove the two upper screws securing the center channel. Remove the two lower bolts (in the door) securing the channel and remove it. On some cars, the two screws are concealed below the weatherstrip.
For sedan rear doors, remove the quarter glass. The entire glass and rubber seal may be removed as an assembly from the door.
Lower the door glass until the glass mounting bolts are accessible. One will be easily seen in the large access hole in the door; the other will appear in the smaller, round access hole. Remove the bolts.
Stand next to the inside of the door. Tilt the door glass and remove it through the slot.
On front doors, remove the bolts securing the front run channel, then remove the channel.
Remove the regulator mounting bolts and remove the regulator. On later models, there are additional roller guide bolts to be removed. Mark the roller guide mounting bolts to ease window alignment later.
For power windows, remove the motor from the regulator if desired.
The regulator gear will move suddenly when the motor is removed due to action of the large spring. Keep hands well clear.
TO INSTALL, REVERSE DIRECTIONS
Good Luck!! A HELPFUL - 4 THUMBS - rating for this solution would be greatly appreciated. Thank you for using FixYa!!
this windshield uses a rubber seal. that rubber must be warm prior to the install and put around the windshield. when this is done, take a small nylon rope that has been sprayed with a lube(pb blaster, wd-40,etc) wrap it in the outer groove of the rubber seal. then lay the windshield over the opening of the truck, with the two ends of the rope at the center/ bottom of the glass. while someone is applying light pressure on the glass, slowing pulling both ends of the rope of the rubber seal over the lip of the body. this must be done slowly while massaging the windshield into place. after the rope has been pulled setting the rubber over the lip. continue the downward pressure until it has been fully set up. when you are all done. ally a trail of vasoline on the outside of the rubber, wiping the excess off afterwards. not that hard, takes patience, pressure, and two people.
You may have a clip that is not seating properly in the groove. Try to push the clip into the groove, work your way around the splines. You are just checking to see that it does not stick anywhere in the groove keeping it from compressing. If you replaced the clip yourself it may be spread too far open causing it to hang on the edge of the gear in the transaxle. If so remove the clip and compress it with a pair of pliers so that it is now smaller than the inside of the groove. If these are not helpful, ensure that none of the splines on the shaft or inside the trans are damaged. You may end up replacing the retaining ring it is flattened or distorted. Try applying a bit of bearing grease on the ring to persuade it. Sometimes you will have to use a rubber mallet on the outer end of the axle shaft to get the ring to go into the trans.
To get to the cabin air filter on an XK8 or XKR, you have to do the following steps (I know these steps sound ridiculous...as in many cars there is just a simple cover in the engine compartment... but...): The air filter is under the black plastic cowl or plenum that is just under the windshield wiper blade connectors. To get to that, you must 1. carefully lift off the plastic covers that reveal screw heads. Remove the screws. 2. lift off the plastic covers that are on the top of each windshield wiper connector - under the cover you will then see a nut or bolt that has to be unscrewed. 3. Using a small puller (the puller that lifts off battery terminals works for this) lift off each windshield wiper and disconnect the rubber hose from each. 3. lift the car's front hood, and remove the plastic cowling (you also have to lift the side rubber runners and a rubber strap from each side that holds up the rubber drain hoses). Once you remove that plastic cowling, you will see the air filter plenum at the back of the engine area. The air filter should come vertically out of that. (This air filter does not exist on my 2000 and earlier editions...I am not sure what year Jaguar installed them.) Full instructions are on the Jaguar JTIS CD which you should obtain...look online for that.