Question about 1997 Jeep Wrangler

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Oil pressure I own a 97' wrangler w/ 197,000 plus miles. Recently I had the front brakes, rotor and caliper replaced. This will sound odd but, now the engine heats slightly above normal and when that happens the check gauges light and buzzer goes off and the oil pressure gauge bounces up and down while the vehicle is at stop. The oil pressure gauge remains constant till it reaches that slightly elevated temp. While driving the temp fluctuates from normal to a little warm. Two months ago I replaced the water pump and thermostat and have no problem with overheating, highway , surface street or distance driving. ??? What do you think? Thanks, Robert

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  • Anonymous May 11, 2010

    The first thing I would suggest is to find out what the check engine light is telling you. Get the code and let us know what it is.

    To get a code, turn the ignition on/off/on/off/on (within 5 seconds), and the odometer will display the codes in sequence. Write them all down and either Google the code descriptions or paste them here and someone (me?) will look them up for you.

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I was having the same issue with oil pressure and i only had 55K on mine, i have since changed the cat and the exhaust manifold and the problem went away? might be a coiencedance but it makes since thinking like an exhaust brake would work

Posted on Jul 13, 2008

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I had a front wheel bearing fail. I want to repair the vehicle and make it reliable. It has approximately 180,000 miles on it.


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No brake pressure 97 jeep wrangler


make sure the bleeder nipples are closed tightly. also check to make sure the bolt that connects the line to the caliper is seated on correctly and tight. also keep an eye on your brake fluid level. If there's no leaks anywhere you should almost never need to ad fluid.

Jul 13, 2012 | 1997 Jeep Wrangler

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How can I change the rotors and brakes on a 2006 Cadillac?


Front brake
Step 1: Identify Front Disc Brake Components
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Front Wheel Drive Brake Assembly
Most front disc brake components include: brake rotor, brake pads, brake caliper, caliper mount and brake flex hose. Brake service usual occurs between 20,000 and 40,000 miles depending on driver habits, road conditions and brake pad/ rotor materials used.
Step 2: Remove Brake Caliper to Replace Pads
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Removing Brake Caliper Mounting Bolts
Locate primary caliper mounting bolts; apply wrench pressure counter-clockwise (When looking at the head of the bolt) to remove the bolts, upper and lower. Make sure the bolt threads are in good shape and replace if necessary.
Step 3: Remove Front Brake Caliper
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Remove Front Brake Caliper
After removing the primary caliper mounting bolts lift the brake caliper off of the rotor and then tie or secure to the side, being careful not to bend or kink the brake caliper flex hose. Thoroughly inspect brake caliper and brake hoses for leakage, cracks or chaffing and replace as needed. Next remove the brake pads (If not mounted in the caliper) and secondary caliper mounting bolts. Notice how great protective gloves work, most technicians use them on the job today.
Step 4: Remove Brake Pads
remove_brake_pads.jpg
Remove Front Brake Pads
Once the brake pads have been removed, make sure if there is anti rattle hardware to transfer to the new brake pads. Some brake pad manufacturers will include the proper lube (Caliper slides) and anti-rattle hardware to ensure proper performance of their product.
Step 5: Remove Caliper Mount
remove_brake_pads_holder.jpg
Remove Caliper Mount Bracket
Finish removing secondary caliper mount bolts and remove caliper mount. Note: clean and lube caliper slides and pad friction surfaces of all foreign material or build-up.
Step 6: Remove Brake Rotor
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Remove Brake Rotor
With the caliper mount out of the way you can now remove the brake rotor. Sometimes it can get stuck so you may need to tap it with a hammer or use penetrating oil to free it up. Some manufacturers use small screws to hold the rotor on as well. Clean and inspect wheel studs, replace if any are damaged. Also clean bearing hub rotor mount surface to ensure the proper mounting of the new brake rotor. Inspect the ABS sensor wheel for cracks or damage and replace as needed.
Step 7: Depressing the Brake Caliper
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To install the new brake pads you must retract the brake caliper piston. Remove the master cylinder lid or open the brake caliper bleeder screw to allow excess brake fluid to be released if necessary. Install C clamp tool and gently tighten clamp until caliper piston is fully depressed. Note: use old brake pad to protect the caliper piston. Close the bleeders once the piston is retracted completely
Step 8: Installing New Brake Rotor
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Install new brake rotor, the new rotor is manufactured with a protective film over the rotor to keep it from rusting, remove protective film with brake cleaner before installing; also after the brake job is complete you may experience a small amount of smoke from the rotor when first used. This is normal and will go away after the first couple of uses.
Step 9: Installing New Front Brake Pads
new_brake_pads.jpg
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Reinstall the front brake caliper mount, and then install front brake pads. Make sure the pads are seated properly in the caliper mount; it must be a close fit to work properly..
Step 10: Reinstall Front Brake Caliper
front_brake_rotor_pads.jpg
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1 Answer

Passenger side front brakes locking up


There are a number of problems that can cause that. It could be a bad caliper which is either hanging up or not returning correctly. It could be a bad proportioning valve or ABS motor. It doesn't have to be the passenger caliper that is bad. If the driver side isn't moving then all the brake pressure will go into the passenger side. Check your pads for excessive wear also. Metal on metal contact will cause that or a heat cracked pad could be causing uneven pressure. Check your rotors for glazing as well. If the pads don't grab until high pressure is applied then the brake could lock up. Pads rotors and calipers should cost less than two hundred dollars and if you replace all of them then you shouldn't have to worry about them for another twenty thousand miles or so. Take out the ABS fuse and drive it first and see if it does the same thing. If it does, then it's not the ABS motor. To me, it sounds like a caliper hanging up. Good luck.

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2 Answers

Caliper is sticking


the ABS valve in the ABS hydraulic control unit is leaking pressure and causing brake to apply is the most likely thing wrong..

May 16, 2009 | 1997 Pontiac Grand Am

1 Answer

Need to replace front rotors and brake pads


All you have to do is take off your calipers and the rotor will slide right off. Use a C clamp to push the piston of the caliper back in so you can put your new brakes on.

May 08, 2009 | 1994 Jeep Wrangler

2 Answers

Front calipers


Good morning,
I have several questions that can lead you to a solution.
1) How many miles on the front brake pads sense they have been replaced?
2) How deeply grooved are the front brake rotors?
3) does the front brakes make a scratching or a grinding sound when the brakes are applied?

This is where I'm heading with these questions:

The front brake pads are a biscuit of break friction material applied to a steel plate.
As the braking material wears off the rotor may also wear with grooves and in the case of replacing pads without turning the rotor can present a ledge on the rotor that the plate of the brake pad can come it contact with and restrict the friction material from coming in contact with the rotor and be an effective breaking force.

Also if the pads have been replaced and the piston has become cocked in the caliper it will be jammed in the piston bore and not be free to extend and exert a pinching force on the rotor.

I suspect that if the fluid is not restricted from reaching the caliper there is a mechanical restriction in the system. Not much else to consider but those two things.

Glad to be of assistance - please rate the solution - I can learn from you. Thank you

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1 Answer

Front Brakes


Interesting, disc brakes don't normally stick. Since there is no tension pressure against the pads like drum brakes.

You indicated you replaced the right caliper and the master cylinder, but no mention of the disc or the piston (Some caliper assemblies are all in one, some are not.)

Here are some thoughts:

Disc is contaminated with oil, grease, brake fluid etc, when you brake, it is absorbed by the pad, gets hot and sticks.

You didn't replace left caliper, piston isn't working well, sending all pressure to right side.

You didn't indicate, new, used or rebuilt caliper. If used, get anew/remanufactured SET of calipers and either semi-mettalic or ceramic pads, and new rotors (I used to get rotors turned, but new replacements are now generally cheaper that turning old ones. When working with brakes I always recommend you work them as a set, regardless of how good the other side looks.

Make sure you clean the rotors with a solvent to ensure any grease or anti-rust agent is removed and dry will with several paper towels.

When installing pads, ensure you do not touch the braking surface of the pad or the rotor, body oil can contaminate too.
Make sure that the siding surface of the caliper is lubricatred with silicone grease designed for calipers (little packets are available at your parts store) On my GM Cars, it is the bolts that mount the caliper, but this varies by caliper design

Hope that is

Jul 02, 2008 | 1995 Dodge Caravan

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