Question about 1992 Nissan Pickup

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Fuel and Temperature Guages

When the vehicle is first started (cold engine - 6 cyl) both fuel and temperature guages move to extreme right far side. After driving approximately 10-15 miles the guages adjust back to the proper readings.

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  • Nissan Master
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Have your alternator output checked; the voltage regulator might be failing.
You can check it easily across the battery terminals.
You shouldn't have any more than ~ 14.3 volts at any revs., and about 12.6 with the engine off.

If it checks out OK, the next step would be to access any plugs to the instrument panel, pull the connectors apart and then replug them.
You may have a flaky ground under the dash too.

Posted on Jun 30, 2008

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

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1994 chevy s-10 6 cyl 4.3l automatic starts and runs rough till it gets warmed up?


ALL SENSORS GO BACK TO THE ECM(COMPUTER), THE OXYGEN SENSOR IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT, TELLS COMPUTER CHANGE OR ADJUST FUEL DELIVERY, AMONG OTHER THINGS, FIX THAT PROBLEM, PROPERLY, THEN U CAN MOVE ON. NEW AIR AND FUEL FILTERS FOR SURE ! IS BATTERY FULLY CHARGED ? THE GAS WE BUY IS GARBAGE, ETHENOL IS KILLING OUR ENGINES, ADD SOME PREMIUM FUEL, NEXT FILLUP, ADD STABIL 360 FUEL STABILIZER TO TANK, ARE YUR SPARK PLUGS AND WIRES IN GOOD CONDITION ? TUNE-UPS DO HELP. FUEL INJECTORS IF THATS WHAT U HAVE, GET DIRTY, CLOGGED, NEED CLEANER ADDED TO TANK, OIL CHANGE ALSO HELPS, GOTTA GET ENGINE RIGHT, AS U WOULD FOR INSPECTION. OR YOU'LL FAIL EMMISSIONS TEST, RIGHT ? GOOD LUCK MY FRIEND

Apr 29, 2014 | 1994 Chevrolet S-10

Tip

10 Tips to Prep your Car for Winter Driving


Inspect your antifreeze while your engine is cold by using a tester to check the mixture for its freeze point. A 50/50 ratio means 50% distilled water and 50% antifreeze, which is sufficient in most climates, except in extreme cold. <br /> Have your charging system checked for free at any Advance Auto Parts store. Cold weather starts make the vehicle battery work much harder and getting stranded in the cold is no fun! <br /> Change your oil and oil filter. Clean, high quality engine oil goes a long way in protecting the motor in cold start situations. Use the oil recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. <br /> Visually inspect all lights; marker bulbs, tail lights, third level brake lights, especially headlights and driving lights. Daylight savings time requires bulbs to work longer hours. <br /> Tire Tread condition; check it yourself, or have it checked. Winter driving requires good traction in snow and ice. Quality tire tread sheds the snow, ice and road grime more quickly, providing better traction for improved safety. Check your tire pressure regularly, especially in colder temperatures. Follow the recommended PSI found on the driver's side door post for maximum traction. <br /> Visibility is key to your safety; make sure that your wiper blades are in top condition, to fully clear your windshield, and back window if the vehicle is equipped. Road salt and slush can jeopardize visibility. Use washer fluid containing de-icer and Rain-X Treatment on windows to avoid the chiseling of ice early in the morning. <br /> Inspect your engine's belts and hoses. Cracked, frayed or worn out rubber won't stand up to temperature extremes. Don't get stranded on your next trip because of a $10.00 belt or hose! <br /> Replace the Cabin Air Filter if the vehicle is equipped. Outside contaminants from Fall and Summer driving are stranded in the cabin air filter and running the heater on "high" in the extreme cold only sends the micro-particles deeper into the vehicle. <br /> Protect your vehicle's paint. Rain, snow and salt are extremely tough on paint. A tough coating of quality car wax will add another barrier in-between road grime and your vehicle's paint. <br /> Last but not least, prepare a roadside emergency kit including a flashlight with fresh batteries, a blanket, food bars, water bottles, cell phone, jumper cables, flares, Fix-a-Flat, HELP Sign, and a first aid kit.

on Apr 02, 2011 | Honda S2000 Cars & Trucks

Tip

Cold Starting Problems? Consider this before expensive dealership bills!


Almost all vehicles nowadays are equipped with an engine coolant temperature sensor. They are in place to tell the vehicle's computer (PCM) what the temperature of the engine is at any time. In a lot of cases, it acts like an electronic carburetor choke.

For instance, when the temperature outside is 32 degrees F and the car has been sitting outside long enough to cool down to that temperature, the temp reflected from the coolant temp sensor SHOULD be telling the computer, "Its 32 degrees here inside the engine so dump extra fuel so it can start!" (Kind of like a closed choke on carbureted engines, only no moving parts except for the fuel injectors."

But what if that's not what the coolant temp sensor is reading? What if it thinks the temperature is 200 degrees F inside that 32 degree engine? In this case, it will report to the computer that the engine is already warmed up and minimal fuel will be required to start the vehicle. Hence, a hard or no-start!

A mis-calibrated (worn out) coolant temperature sensor can also cause a lot of driveability issues as well. For instance, if this had been the opposite scenario...The engine is actually 200 degrees F but the sensor thinks it's 32 degrees, this will cause the engine to run extremely rich, throw a light on the dash, and most likely stall out.

In my opinion, the coolant temperature sensor is arguably one of the most important sensors on your vehicle. If it's checked and/or changed regularly (I would change it about every 50,000 miles or so) this will be one of much forgotten steps in providing good fuel economy and good driveability...Not to mention good cold starts when the weather outside is frightful!

The good news about replacing this handy little guy? Two things. Inexpensive and easy to replace! The coolant temperature sensor can be purchased at most (if not all) auto parts stores (depending on your make and model regarding immediate availability.) For example, on a '98 Chrysler Sebring, Auto Zone has the sensors available for $25.99.

You can usually locate your coolant temperature sensor on or near the thermostat housing. (Again, vehicle make and model will vary in some cases regarding location.) It will usually have 2 wires leading to it. If you see a sensor with only one wire, you've found the coolant sending unit for your coolant gauge.

I hope this tip has helped you and I wish you another year of safe driving and good driveability!

-Jason_MKG :)

on Jan 11, 2010 | Chrysler Sebring Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Idiling high, temperature guage not working. no check engine light on. no problems shifting, fan coming off & on, blowing hot & cold air. can drive it, but it wont start up right away &


Check the cable to the temp sender unit is attached if so check the unit is working with a ohms meter. check the throttle cable is not binding ,the throttle leaver stop at the throttle body housing should be fully closed .

Mar 18, 2014 | 2005 Ford Escape XLT

1 Answer

Temperature guage goes hot immediately upon starting 98 buick regal


Make sure you billed the system , this engine have two bleeder valves one on front above the front valve cover and the other one on the driver side on the top radiator hose near Engine , it should a 7mm add antifreeze while those bleeders are open , also check that you don't have a blown intake gasket or Head gasket , but as far is the temp goes up quick , it's because it has lots of Air in the cooling system and it must be bled . Becareful full as antifreeze may be extremely hot during this process . Hope this help

Jan 13, 2013 | Buick Regal Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

2001 Hyundi Elantra w/~ 128K miles. Problem started 1.5 weeks ago. While cominmg home from work, still cold engine, the cars engine. Able to coast to side of the road, tried to restart car. Did not...


This is only a guess. I had a similar problem (intermittent) and it turned out to be the engine coolant temperature sensor was going bad. The EMS (Engine Management System) uses all kinds of sensors to regulate fuel-to-air mixtures through a range of temperatures, engine & vehicle speed, and transmission shift points. When the engine is cold, the fuel-to-air mixture is greater, and when the engine is warmed up/hot, this mixture is reduced. What was happening in my case, the ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor was telling the ECM (Engine Control Module), that the engine temperature was at -40 degrees (F.), so the ECM richened the mixture & was actually flooding it with too much fuel. This sensor might also be telling the computer that the temperature is higher than it actually is, then the computer would be adjusting the fuel (LESS) causing the engine to NOT recieve enough fuel. You'll want to puts your hands on an OBDII scanner which not only reads codes, but also displays engine current/live data. You'll want to monitor the ECT sensor to see if the temperature fluctuates wildly (i.e., from -40 deg to like +260 deg., etc.). The best time to check this is when the vehicle starts misbehaving as you described.

Sep 04, 2011 | 2001 Hyundai Elantra

1 Answer

When I start the car, the temperature guage goes to the normal position, the air coming from the heat vents is cold. When I accelerate the temperature coming out the vents rises and when I decelerate the...


the temp senser is probably shot but easy to replace. i would start there its location is usually the radiator cap and some times on the side of your engine block. as far as fluctuation in temp upon rpms is unfixable, that is just something i call character.

Feb 10, 2011 | 2000 Lincoln LS

2 Answers

Saturn 2000 SC1. Was started this morning ran very rough (thought to be spark plug/wire problem) Would not Accelerate; extremely rough and quit going for a drive around the block. Tried to start it to no...


You need to start with the basics. If all of your cylinders are in good shape, see what is missing, spark or fuel. This will get you started in the right direction. Look at the spark plugs, and see if you have spark at all of them.

Jan 20, 2010 | 2000 Saturn SC

1 Answer

03 renault scenic wont start when cold unless reved can cut out but ok on restart


hi if on engine starting and warmed you have no problems and no warning/malfunction light showing ? then i would suspect that trouble points to the engine coolant temperature sensor it tells the ecu to provide excess/choke to simplify? fuel as engine is cold so in simple theory you are trying to start with no choke as it was on old carburettor engines if you are old enough to remember ?? (joke) it was much simpler in those days however check the sensor and its plug is clean/secure and wires are ok ? when sensor works your engine fires up and runs withslight increase revs till warmed then settles to idle revsas specified in h/book this sensor is not the temp sensor that works the temp indicator guage it is a seperate sensor and larger screwed into either cyl head or block on the side hope this helps good luck

Dec 03, 2009 | 2000 Renault 181

1 Answer

Where's #6 on a '05 Northstar? Easy or rough side?


Hello; yes i believe u are right about the #6 cylinder location, let me confirm it, if you are standing in front of your car cylinders,2, 4, 6, & 8 are the ones, from left to right in front of the radiator,cylinders 1,3,5 & 7 are the ones closest to the fire wall. sounds like u have a miss gaped or bad plug, i had a simular problem in my northstar. hoe we helped & good luck to u.

Jan 31, 2009 | 1994 Cadillac Eldorado

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