Changed pads,left rotor and caliper and bled front brakes but didnt get good stream of fluid.left front brake takes about 3-4 seconds to release and overheats.rubber brake hose on left front has a slice in it and can see cords but dont see any signs of swelling. what could it be?
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if the caliper is ok it sounds like the flexiable hose is restrcted by the metal crimps on the hose corroded and crushing the reinforced rubber hose restricting the fluid returning back in to the system. change the hose
I think the problem is the brake pad or caliper, brake pad are too thick or the caliper are not good casted. First try to confirm if you get a right brake caliper
,then confirm the brake disc ,brake pad, if they all ok, tear down the
bracket of caliper, put into brake pad, then put into brake rotor. http://www.fiverhope.com/category-4-b0-Brake-caliper.html
SOUNDS LIKE YOU HAVE A BAD BRAKE BOOSTER CHECK AND MAKE SURE YOU HAVE GOOD VACCUM TO IT WHEN YOU TAKE THE HOSE OFF SHOULD HIS THE BOOSTER IS THE ASSIST FOR THE BRAKES CHECK THAT AND GET BACK TO ME I HAVE ALSO SEEN ABS TROUBLES
Are the leading edges on the brake pads bevelled at an angle or are they flat on the brake rotors? There seems to be a problem with Japanese brake rotors (something about the harmonics) and they will sometimes squeal (even with new brake rotors and pads) if the leading edges on the brake pads are not bevelled at an angle. Most of the auto repair shops that I have worked at will only install bevelled edge brake pads on foreign vehicles, especially if they are Japanese imports. If the brake pads do have the edges bevelled then most likely dust has found its way between the brake pad and the brake rotor, and brake dust contamination is the #1 reason for a brake squeal come-back, and that is why a good repair facility will always clean the entire brake assembly including the backing plate for the brake rotor. Also, the brake caliper guides should be able to slide freely in and out of the brake caliper but they should not be sloppy either, and the brake caliper guides should be lubricated with a synthetic brake caliper grease only. The caliper guides should be able to slide freely in the brake caliper and if they do not the brake will not properly release.
If the brake calipers have phenolic (plastic) brake pistons then get rid of them for brake calipers with metal brake pistons.
Here is an image of the two different brake pad designs.
You may have contaminated brake fluid. Try flushing out the brake lines, calipers, and master cylinder by bleeding the heck out of the brakes. Use a NEW can of brake fluid (see why below). This is something overlooked in vehicle maintenance. Whenever doing a brake job, flush the system. I learned the hard way, having calipers drag, not fully releasing, to change them and have it happen again. Finally figured out it was bad fluid which was ruining the calipers. Brake fluid absorbs moisture, which will wreck the system. Just leaving a bottle of fluid with a loose, or missing cap will allow moisture to enter. Brake lines will rust on the inside, and loose particles of rust floating around will cause big problems.
caliper is sticking or pads are sticking ,proportioning valve with vehicle jacked up and supported and wheel removed inspect pads and rotor for damage excessive wear if good- turn hub/rotor by hand have someone assist u by stepping on brake observe brake caliper stop then release brake piston should release slightly from pad try turn hub again w/out touching brake if stuck in place replace and caliper released replace pads if caliper still clamped remove caliper and inspect for leak or damage compress caliper and try brake again if does if sticks again replace caliper
The binding of the brakes is causing the pads to overheat, which is causing the smoke. You need pull the wheel and check things out. Your caliper must be bad (not releasing). You need to replace the caliper, brake pads, and have the rotor cut (a full service parts store or shop cuts the rotor perfectly smooth on both sides), or replaced (it may be cheaper to just buy a new rotor). You should also always change the pads (and check everything else) on the opposite side. So, if u do the brakes on the driver side front, always do the front pass. side at the same time, likewise if u do rear brakes. Whenever you do brakes u should also flush out the brake lines (by bleeding the brakes) until the brake fluid flows absolutely clear. Old brake fluid is the #1 reason for caliper failure. I've seen many times people replace brake components w/out changing the brake fluid, only to have the brakes wear out very quickly, or not function properly. good luck! hope this helps> please rate this!couontrycurt0