I have a 2004 ford explorer i changed my battery and alternator and my battery light and service engine soon lights wont go off

Did anyone hook up a scan tool an check for DTC'S - diagnostic trouble code's ? Charging system controlled by the PCM - engine computer .

Abs is bad sensor in hub bearing,engine light you need obd 2 scanner to read and reset code,

First, check if this warning is a SERVICE SOON or a CHECK ENGINE light. First just is a reminder that you need check or change fluids, filters and periodical maintenance. Check engine light measn that some fault code is detected and some sensor is sending this signal to the coputer car, you will need scanned the computer car with OBD scanner reader tool in order to know exactly what is the fault code number stored there.

Hope this helps.

I assume you resolved the issues by now

Check lights have been on all vehicles for 31 years,
so you shouldn't be asking about them

Does not matter what light comes on your dash

The procedure is always the same
Check for codes
Diagnose & repair code related issues first

The battery light on, is an indication of alternator failure. If your battery is more than 3 years old it needs replacement . A bad battery can damage a new alternator (full field condition). The age of your truck warrants inspection of the charging system. It requires at Least 20 amps output, from the alternator to run the engine.

got a 2004 ford explorer it wont start but it turns over put fuel pump starter evap canister and purge valve it was broke,and a battery fuel filter,tac system and it still wont crank

this sounds like it might be a bad coil, I've seen a lot on Fords

When the Check Engine light comes on that means that the computer in your Explorer has set Diagnostic trouble codes and stored them in the computers memory.After all repairs are made to all D.T.C. The codes need to be erased from your computer, this resets the Check Engine Light, and it should not come on again untill the computer finds another falt.Good Luck.

Sounds like connections or cables. They may appear to look good but if they are aftermarket terminal ends they get corrosion under the bolt down clamp that holds the wires in. If they are factory cables that are molded on to the ends of the wires the same thing can happen. The easiest and cheapest thing to try is to put aftermarket terminal ends on the cables. Make sure you wirebrush the ends of the cables after you strip them and tighten them evenly and securely. Also clean the battery side thoroughly. If this doesn't work check the starter relay. Its the first place the red cable bolts to after the battery. Check the connections and try putting a jumper wire between the battery positive cable and the small terminal marked with an "S". One of these solutions should take care of this.

Need a little more info. What engine and trans do you have. The problem is, the engine will not crank or it cranks but will not start? Let me know.