a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
for passenger side:
1. unclip screw cover 'center flap' of inside door opener plastic cover, flap is 3/8"x 3/8" (center of plastic cover)
2. remove phillips screw now showing
3. push fabric panel (edge of door opener plastic cover-at hinged end of chrome handle) to allow uncliping of edge of plastic cover (top rt & lwr rt (for passenger side) of plastic cover)
4. open chrome inside door handle to allow plastic cover to be removed-slide plastic cover toward rear, free end of door to remove cover
5. remove switch panel-gently pry with wide non maring pry bar (cover wide blade screwdriver using cloth) do rear of sw panel 1st (don't pry front edge)
6. slide switch panel toward rear to allow removal
7. remove large phillips screw under sw panel
8. remove the 2 plastic covers near top, hinge edge -use plastic spoon handles to encourage caps to pop off. May also require small screwdriver approx 1/8" in to complete pop off
9. remove the 2 phillips screws w/ captive washers
10. remove 3 phillips/hex screws along the bottom inside of door panel
11. on outside/rear edge of panel push the 2 center pins of each in about 1/8"-this allows the clip to be pulled out w/ pin pushed in
12. remove plastic cover (REAR OF SIDE MIRROR)-pull window edge up and back.
13. lift rear of door panel (not hinge edge) up allow hinge edge to pivot around lower pin in door (hinge edge)
14. remove the 2 rt edge "L" brackets (gently pry center plastic pin out) (note the color and replace as removed)
15. slowly peel the clear plastc away from the non hinged end to expose the plastic panel with 3 phillips head screws
16. remove the 3 screws and panel for access to door handle.
17. using access area now available unlatch the rod attached to exterior door handle (unclip plastic to rotate clip up to allow rod to slide out-toward hinged edge)
18. using access area now available remove rod from ext door handle from inside door area
19. remove the 3 -10mm head bolts
20. remove the ext door handle (bottom edge out first)
reverse order to replace door handle
1) Remove the plug inside the interior armrest and remove phillips
2) Remove armrest and two screws that hold door panel to door frame.
3) Pop the outer cover off the interior door handle.
4) Remove the interior
lock knob and remove door panel by popping out tabs connected to door frame and lifting up off of window ledge.
5) Remove the two nuts
holding exterior handle in place.
6) Disconnect the L shaped linkage from
the handle. The trick to getting the L shaped linkage into the
new handle is to feed L shaped metal pole through hole in door where
exterior handle was, leaving the lower end of this linkage in its slot.
7) Feed the end of L shaped pole through the plastic 'hinge' in new
handle by folding the hinge over and pushing the end of the L through
both sides of the plastic hinge at once. slide the lower loop of the
plastic hinge down the L shaped pole to secure pole to handle.
8) Place new
handle into door and reverse the process to reinstall interior panel.
First you will have to pound the broken lug studs out of the wheel hub, then you will need a lug nut and about a half an inch thick of flat washers.
1. Insert the new lug stud through the wheel hub from behind so that the threaded end is facing out towards you and then put some grease on the threads.
2. Then slip the flat washers onto the lug stud followed by the lug nut, and run the lug nut down to take up the slack.
3. Then using a breaker bar tighten the lug nut until it pulls the lug stud through the wheel hub and it is flush with the wheel hub.
Be sure that the amount of flat washers used will make up for any non-threaded part of the lug stud that might stick out past the wheel hub preventing the lug nut from pulling the lug stud all the way through the wheel hub, and basically you do not want the lug nut to run out of threads before it can pull the lug stud flush with the wheel hub.
From Experience trying to clean the threads up usually results in just stripping the stud the rest of the way. Depending on how the car is set up (i.e. rear disc or rear drum brakes) replaceing the lug studs is fairly straight forward. All you need to do is remove the tire, remove either the brake drum or disc, and determine if you have room for removal and reinsertion of a new stud. If not determine what has to be removed to give you that room. Then comes the fun part. Take about a 2-3lb. hammer and knock the old one out. Yes, they just knock out. Then to instal the new one just set it in the hub where the old one came out, place a few washers that will fit over the knurled part at the base on the stud and the new lug nut and tighten it down til the back side if flat against the hub. Then just reinstall previously removed parts and you are done.
They should be replaceable w/o pulling the axle. Imagine a common nail; you have the shank of the nail with its point and the flat head on the other end. Your lug stud looks a little like that except the part that comes through the axle flange. It is a little larger than the threaded part and has "lateral lines" machined into it to grip inside the flange. Otherwise it would spin either way when you tried to tighten or remove it. To get the broken ones out, use a high quality flat end punch and a hammer to drive them backwards (toward the center of your differential) and eventually out of the flange. Look for the area that will give you the most room so they will not hit aything while they are backe out of the flange. The new studs can be installed in the reverse manner. When you get them just barely started through the flange, use your fingers to twist them back and forth to "feel" for the grooves where the old stud was seated. Once you get it barely started in the grooves, grease the threads, slip an old 1/2 inch drive socket over the new stud (make sure it doesn't fit tight) slip on a thick flat washer or 2--3 thin ones, turn your lug nut around backwards so the tapered end faces out and begin to tighten it. Go slow, make sure the new stud pulls through the flange evenly. Take the nut, washers and socket off every now and then and look at your progress. When the back side of the stud is seated on the back of the flange, you're finished. Now, always grease the studs. ALL OF THEM, EVERY WHEEL. The monkeys that put on tires these days use impact wrenches and if you just have to let them do it, grease will help you loosen the nut if you have to and it will help prevent future failures. A DRY stud and nut causes a twisting motion to take place in the body of the stud when its tightened. This leads to premature metal fatigue.
Tail light replacement is not as hard as it seems.
Tools needed:flat head screwdriver and a deep 5/32 socket(a pair of pliers will work).
Step 1: open trunk and pull back truck liner at tail light.There is a small button clip on liner.Use screwdriver to pop up the center of button clip,pull clip out of hole.
Step 2:You will see a black wire attached to the body of car with 2 white clips.Use screwdriver to pop clips off of studs.
Step 3:Remove the nuts from the studs and pull tail light assembly straight back away from car.The outer side of the light just snaps in and out of place.
Step 4:Turn light socket counter clockwise 1/3 turn and pull out.
Step 5:Pull bad bulb straight out and replace.Reverse steps to reassemble.
The first step in wheel stud replacement is to remove the old one. On almost every car, this is done by taping them out from the threaded side
Rotate the hub so that the back side (flat, on the back side of the hub) will not smash into something when you tap it out.
You will need a heavy hammer and safety glasses,
Next, while the glasses are on your face, use the hammer and whack on the threaded end of the old stud to drive it out the back side of the hub. If if was broken off real short, you might have to use a punch to transfer the hammer blows to what is left of the stud.
To install the new one, place it in the hole from the back side and use a standard lug nut on the new stud screwed on backwards (flat end toward the hub) and then use the car's lug wrench to tighten the nut and pull the stud into the hub. Make sure the grooves in the hub line up with the ridges in the new stud before trying to seat it.
Once the stud is fully seated, remove the lug nut. You are done.
I usually buy a standard lug nut that fits the replacement stud to do this procedure because most mag nuts are closed on the back end. It is cheap and will save lots of time.